Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Fanatic
What are the part numbers for them? Just sold my buddy my Losi and he is interested in keeping the diff fluid inside the diffs for some reason...
Edit: TLR332001
Edit: TLR332001
Last edited by rallyredevo; 01-12-2013 at 10:49 PM.
Tech Addict
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Heavy Truck - General Suspension Advice
Hi,
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
Last edited by eddomak; 01-13-2013 at 01:23 AM.
Hi,
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
http://losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0127
I personally would go up in wt on all the shocks, raise the ride height to front driveshafts a tad higher than level and rear about even and leave the springs alone. If bashing go with a heavy oil like 40 front and 35 rear. If racing I would try 37.5 front and 32.5 rear. Some go as light at 27.5wt all the way around but I'm sure their trucks are a lot lighter than yours.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
This page is your friend when it comes to looking up a setup for the truck.
http://losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0127
I personally would go up in wt on all the shocks, raise the ride height to front driveshafts a tad higher than level and rear about even and leave the springs alone. If bashing go with a heavy oil like 40 front and 35 rear. If racing I would try 37.5 front and 32.5 rear. Some go as light at 27.5wt all the way around but I'm sure their trucks are a lot lighter than yours.
http://losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0127
I personally would go up in wt on all the shocks, raise the ride height to front driveshafts a tad higher than level and rear about even and leave the springs alone. If bashing go with a heavy oil like 40 front and 35 rear. If racing I would try 37.5 front and 32.5 rear. Some go as light at 27.5wt all the way around but I'm sure their trucks are a lot lighter than yours.
We'll try doing the ride height first, then the oils.
Thanks!
Hi,
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
My mate is running the RTR on 3S and it is heavy - with a battery pack that takes the full battery tray with no spacers. It is bog stock standard factory settings at the moment and just used for "performance driving around a track" (ie not bashing, not racing).
It tends to bottom out on the jumps, and it pitches the weight a lot (the MMP ESC has power that comes on a bit sudden, as you know).
There's no other particular problem we're working on (eg on/off power steering) or aiming for.
We'll be working on the throttle curve via Castle software, but any suggestions where to start with the suspension? Should we start with heavier springs? Or start with higher weight shock oil? Or increase the ride height?
Thanks!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
If anyone is installing the RX8 and went to install the adapter for the motor mount and need to get the tabs for Pro-4 to sit level no need to use the larger set of holes on the motor. The SCTE screw are 3mmx10
Solution
All you have to do it take the front end bell screws out, and rotate it. then when you have the desired hole size where you want it, screw it back together. my pro 4 has the leads right at the top.
Hope that helps anyone installing one for the first time.
Solution
All you have to do it take the front end bell screws out, and rotate it. then when you have the desired hole size where you want it, screw it back together. my pro 4 has the leads right at the top.
Hope that helps anyone installing one for the first time.
Last edited by jayhawknavy02; 01-13-2013 at 08:05 AM.
Or you can just take off the motor plate, spin it so that the holes you need are where you need them, and then screw it back on. That's what most do.
Tech Regular
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LMAO, almost got back in time...I found that on the RC Short Course forum...lol
I didn't see a glitch buster with the RX8 ESC, after 2 MMPs dying on me in 6 months, do I need to get one or is the internal BEC adequate?
I didn't see a glitch buster with the RX8 ESC, after 2 MMPs dying on me in 6 months, do I need to get one or is the internal BEC adequate?
you should be ok without one. RX8's BEC is pretty stout.
I don't use one running a Pro4 4600Kv and a DS1015 servo .....
well i went with the 5/5/3 setup and lighten outdrive all the way around and broke my tracks record by 2 seconds sat nite go losi!!!!
Tech Master
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I tried to search i couldnt find feedback for hobbywing sct pro esc. Anyone using it with revtech 4800 with great success?
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havent heard anyone with the revtech on the SCT Pro but my HW 4700 is awesome so im sure the same is gonna apply to the 4800! Flies on 2s and 13t pinion, 2much for indoor
Tech Elite
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