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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-04-2013, 08:50 AM
  #42661  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
really.. by the time you buy 2 towers.. might as well buy the TLR kit.. and seriously.. what racer doesnt like having adjustments.. also.. i am not in stock settings in the toe and antisquat..

another thing.. the stock ball ends trash up and loosen up very quicly.. then the truck is sloppy.. and sometimes.. the ball just falls out of the camber link.. just my experiece..

The stub axels on the front wear out quickly.. and mess up the pins.. i do have the Teckno front axels.. havent done the rear..

however.. they need to be done.. i did buy new couplers, pins and stub axels.. but the dang axel itself has a half moon shape in it on the front side.. and needs to be done..

i run the quite a bit.... and once these things are done.. the truck is much better..

The truck is great.. handles great.. and the best i have driven.. i just think all these upgrades while not needed for the first couple of weekends.. far exceeds what i am acustom to.. like i said.. i got more money in my SCTE than i do in my 1/8 buggy..
Please keep in mind, when the SCTE came out 2 years ago, the 4wd SC class really wasnt all that big. We had to release seomthing that the general population wanted at that time. Obviously things have changed and trust me, we are changing with them...
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
on the losi 22 piston pack.. what do the numbers correspond to in mm.
The numbers corrospond to numbered drill bits.

Here is a good chart with all the info.

http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:03 AM
  #42663  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
really.. by the time you buy 2 towers.. might as well buy the TLR kit.. and seriously.. what racer doesnt like having adjustments.. also.. i am not in stock settings in the toe and antisquat..

another thing.. the stock ball ends trash up and loosen up very quicly.. then the truck is sloppy.. and sometimes.. the ball just falls out of the camber link.. just my experiece..

The stub axels on the front wear out quickly.. and mess up the pins.. i do have the Teckno front axels.. havent done the rear..

however.. they need to be done.. i did buy new couplers, pins and stub axels.. but the dang axel itself has a half moon shape in it on the front side.. and needs to be done..

i run the quite a bit.... and once these things are done.. the truck is much better..

The truck is great.. handles great.. and the best i have driven.. i just think all these upgrades while not needed for the first couple of weekends.. far exceeds what i am acustom to.. like i said.. i got more money in my SCTE than i do in my 1/8 buggy..
Just saying two shock towers = 48.00, losi kit = 115, while it's a value for sure it doesn't speed you up and isn't a 'must have'; just an opinion.

As far as losi slop.. the sloppyier it is the faster you are As long as those ends stay on and don't slide off the ball completely, I say let it alone. Replace the $5 plastic end set once they fall off the ball ends (front typically wears not so much the rear), after that the next time replace both the balls and plastics (don't bother w/ hd imo, they don't seem to last any longer certainly don't add any speed if you are trying to keep costs down). Typically you can run 1/2 a season or more on 1 set of plastic ends provided you don't crash a ton. 1 year for balls in most cases. Now if you are in the pipe and wrecking on every lap, there is no predicting what parts will wear faster.

Axles.. easily 1 full season of use if not more. You will need to rotate into the extra set of holes when one set stretches but there is no reason to need to swap these parts out often. I've had sets last 2 years, but again I only race and don't get into a ton of wrecks.

I ran the stock chassis for two years, won a ton of races w/ it. I needed a new one tried BCE, tried losi, tried the Bump version settled on the bump at least for me with the long brace it's the best out there (again imo).

In 3+ years I"ve never broken a rear hub; alum = bling at least for me
In 3+ years the only parts (excluding wear parts) I've actually had to replace are front and rear bumpers. The front has never broke but does bend out of position over time. The rear doesn't have as many issues now but for a while they were aweful.

If you run the tekno front rear center shafts you don't have issues, if you want to keep the stock center shafts make sure you run the kingheadz retainers, it will assure trouble free operation, again pin can be rotated over time if the hole stretches.

The tekno front center does last a ton longer than the losi but even the losi will get you nearly a full season before the pin wears too much (pin in the center diff outdrive). I added the king heads front dual bearing and not having wobble does also help reduce pin wear.

I'm glad to hear you have gotten use out of your hinge pin holders though.. mine have been in the stock position since day one. My setup is dialed typically throws the fastest laps of any truck (any brand) locally so I'm leaving well enough alone.

My only point was it doesn't have to be that expensive, unless you want it to. BTW w/ 1/8 e-buggy I agree, once you are in it's a pretty low cost to run weekly, most high end kits are tough as nails (may cost a touch more than the scte), start up cost on electrical components is double vs a scte w/ $180 xerun combo and a $50-80 2cell lipo but after that it's pretty cheap (clean and race). Move into 1/8 e-truggy and it's another story... tires & rear diff's alone will chew up a budget pretty quick

Last edited by 8ight-e; 01-04-2013 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:22 AM
  #42664  
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Well said 8ight−e!
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Please keep in mind, when the SCTE came out 2 years ago, the 4wd SC class really wasnt all that big. We had to release seomthing that the general population wanted at that time. Obviously things have changed and trust me, we are changing with them...
I like what I'm hearing.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:41 AM
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Will Losi/Horizon do anything about Ti shock shafts that have the titanium worn off? I have 3 sets that the coating has worn off after a short time. At first I thought I got a bad set, but the latest ones on my truck are showing wear after 2 race days. I'm sure the hinge pins are the same, but I haven't inspected them since I put them on.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JASF4I View Post
I like what I'm hearing.
+1
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:18 AM
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all i know is that i am racing dirt oval and started out with an ae 4wd it was ok but very inconsistent,i decided to sell it and buy a scte and by far was the best thing i have done i have been close to breaking the track record which is held by a scte. i wouldnt trade my scte for any other truck!
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
IP intellect 6800 70c are among if not the best packs I've owned.
I concur. I run the crud out of the iP btatteries in the two SCTEs we run. Get in touch with Jeff at ProMatch. http://www.promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=38

Take care of your batteries and they are warrantied for 1 year.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:04 AM
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..wrong thread.... +1 on the ips. Best batts I own. I ordered all 3 new 80C types 7200 has me interested for SCT
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
while i agree with you that the SCTE truck is a good truck.. for the first weekend.. then you gotta replace everything it seems..

i love my truck.. however.. i got more money tied up into this truck, with hopups.. and spares and all that than i do in my 1/8 scale..

from the TLR tuning kit, to a new chassis, updated diff out drives, hard anodized ball ends, upgraded shock bodies.. to having to rebuild drive shafts constantly with new stub axels, upgraded front drive axels..

it just wears out so fast..

Now your telling me there is new diffs?

my truck is nothing like it was stock.. it would have been cheaper to buy an ebuggy and convert it using DE 17mm wheels..

but it is still the best choice out there..
Yeah, but people make the same complaints about 1/8th scale. I've heard drivers make the same statements about HB, Associated, Losi and even the Tekno 8th scale cars. Everyone wants low wear items, but then complain about the high cost (see Serpent). Any big car with 3 diffs, drive shafts, pins, and out drives are going to see a lot of wear, what with all the power that is running through them.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:09 PM
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My center front driveshaft at the CVD joint keeps wearing out faster than the rest; even before the coupler needs to be replaced. I have the KingHeadz double bearing standoff already, so it's not a wobble issue. I had the same problem with the Tekno one as well. It can't be just me!

Has anyone tried to harden the driveshaft at that end, the way we used to harden the outdrives? Or are these hardened already? Or should I just pull out my torch and try it?

I go through these more than any other part on this truck.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rcus3r View Post
My center front driveshaft at the CVD joint keeps wearing out faster than the rest; even before the coupler needs to be replaced. I have the KingHeadz double bearing standoff already, so it's not a wobble issue. I had the same problem with the Tekno one as well. It can't be just me!

Has anyone tried to harden the driveshaft at that end, the way we used to harden the outdrives? Or are these hardened already? Or should I just pull out my torch and try it?

I go through these more than any other part on this truck.
This part is a wear item. This is due to the angle that there is at that point. We have tried harder parts but then the outdrive, even the HD ones will wear too. So, we opted to have one part that is easier to change wear versus both or the harder to change part. It is like this on every TEN and 8IGHT vehicle there is. I replace mine every 3-6 months and its like 8-10 bucks and 1 setscrew to change.

I cannot say this enough, parts do not last forever and something always has to give. For the power we put through these and the abuse, this vehicle is and will be above all else. Even the tekno parts I see people spend more for wear. Maybe it takes a slight amount of time longer, but they still wear.

Not to mention, at what point do you happen to notice a handling difference in the vehicle and what is the issue that occurs becuase of it?
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:36 PM
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Well, I guess I don't really notice a performance difference. It just runs rougher/louder, and has more slop which then probably puts more stress on the other components?

I hear you, Ryan. I am not complaining, just looking for a way to make thigs last longer.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:42 PM
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eight.. i agree with everything your saying.. trust me.. i do.. and i can see you guys are thinking i am bashing the truck.. but im not.. im the first one at the track selling the losi.. cuz its the best there is..

i just made my remarks based off someone mentioning the new 1/8 based truck.. and simply said.. i think this truck wears out way to fast.. and after all the things i got for it.. it cost more than if i were to convert a buggy.. but its not legal in RCPRO.. so.. i run my SCTE..

i got bout 1 1/2 years on my truck..

i agree.. looser is faster.. but when i change camber link locations.. and the ball just falls out.. thats too worn out.. in my opinion..

had 3 sets of balls replaced.. then when the HD balls came out.. i got them and new plastics..

front drive shafts were done 3 times till i finally realized there were Tekno shafts out there
rear shafts, were rebuilt 2 times.. this 3rd time i got new stub axels.. next time it will be tekno shafts..

drive cups worn out quick with slots knocked ito those kinda early.. the new lightweight drive cups.. awesome..

bumpers.. blah..

i run same electronics as i do in ebuggy.. so.. blah..

chassis.. meh.. i got a deal on it.. so i run it.. or i would be on stock chassis..

bent rear tower 2nd weekend out with it..

i like the truck.. i love my buggy.. got 7+ months on it.. with no signs of wear on it yet..
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