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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-20-2011, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
will this work with the stock chassis? my motor mount stripped out already.
if it does is this the ten-X they have listed on there site?

me likes
Yes. It is the Ten T mount. Works great with the stock chassis.
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Old 03-20-2011, 07:24 AM
  #4202  
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
ok guys...i am fed up. i am running a novak hv 4.5 and novak pro sc esc. geared at 12/40 and 15/40. temps really dont change that much. after 10 minutes i am at 180 degrees. lipo was 115-120. motor will not make it this summer when ambient temps are 100. it was 80 here today.

that combo worked fine for 10 minutes with my jammin...but i guess the extra beefiness of the losi pushes the system to its limits. (not complaining about weight of truck. i punted quite a few slashes today)

basically looking for opinions. thought about getting a different esc and going to 3s. will that make it run cooler? my esc will not take 3s. my buddy found a hv pro 4.5 system at the lhs that has to be old stock because it is discontinued on tower. his manual says 2-4s lipo. but if you look on novak's site they say the 4.5hv is for 2s operation only. so i am thinking the 4.5 can handle the 3s.

but anyway. i tqed today and finished 2nd. the truck overheated glitched what ever and i had to baby it the last 3 minutes to finish. i was far enough ahead that i only fell to 2nd. gonna race again tomorrow at a small track so heat shouldnt matter tomorrow. looking forward to suggestions.
Does your ESC have a "current limiter" in it's setup??

On the Tekin RX8 you can adjust the "current limiter" to 90% from the default "off". This way your ESC isn't pushing all the juice to your motor. I was overheating like crazy with my Tekin SC4x 4.5T until I did that. I ran a (2) 5 minute heats and (1) 7 min main and temps coming off the track were at 140 degrees. I was geared at 14/40.
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Old 03-20-2011, 07:32 AM
  #4203  
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
so my novak and mmp have to many issues , sensor wire , over heating, heating up my battery's. etc i was running a castle 1512 1.5 y in my slash but the can was a lil to big to fit in the ten properly. so i shimmed the four bolts of the center diff apprx 1/8 and my motor slid right in. very close to the outdrive but not touching. do you guys think shimming the center diff up 1/8 will affect it much or not? i didnt wanna dremel off the lil motor kick stand as i also ordered the castle 1410 new 4 pole motor yesterday. but my slash never over heated with the mmp 1512 1.5 combo so i wanted to install it and try it out.
Does your ESC have a "current limiter" in it's program setup??

On the Tekin RX8 you can adjust the "current limiter" to 90% from the default "off". This way your ESC isn't pushing all the juice to your motor. I was overheating like crazy with my Tekin SC4x 4.5T until I did that. I ran a (2) 5 minute heats and (1) 7 min main and temps coming off the track were at 140 degrees. I was geared at 14/40. Good luck!
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
How is that different from any other 1/10 scale?
It just looks like there is no side impact deflection at all.
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:25 AM
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I sure need some diff pins...
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ripped View Post
I sure need some diff pins...
me too
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:24 AM
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im running an mmp w/2400kv motor and 19t pinion..my car never got over 105 degrees...i run in a very tight clay indoor track fyi...just thought id put that out there
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by hgrove99 View Post
im running an mmp w/2400kv motor and 19t pinion..my car never got over 105 degrees...i run in a very tight clay indoor track fyi...just thought id put that out there
what battery pack you running? 2s or 3s
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
How is that different from any other 1/10 scale?
You don't have any nurf bars.
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hgrove99 View Post
im running an mmp w/2400kv motor and 19t pinion..my car never got over 105 degrees...i run in a very tight clay indoor track fyi...just thought id put that out there
+1 I decided to screw around and take my son's tires off his stampede xl5. I went hard on speed runs and drifted a for a while infront of my house and when I came in the temp was 104 on the motor. I couldn't believe it? I love the 2400 on 3s
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:58 AM
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I think I saw earlier in the thread that someone had rear arms split on the mold line. Add me to that list. Didnt break , just seperated on the end near the wheel and let the pin come out. Since no spare parts exist, I just place the pin back through the hole and ran it that way for the main. It held together and I won the main. We have a Series race in 2 weeks. It would be nice if some parts made it by then. I havent received my gear pins yet either.

The truck drives awesome. But the early amount of slop in the drive line alarms me. I hope it all gets sorted out .
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing View Post
Rage, I just got done racing today with my rx8 in, and it was awesome, the only problem i had was towards the end of the race (7min main) my car would start to stop running, and then go and stop and would do that over and over. I checked the temps and the hottest it got was 132, and i didnt even have a fan on it
can someone help me with this? or could it possibly be my battery dieing on me?
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing View Post
can someone help me with this? or could it possibly be my battery dieing on me?
Did you check your battery's voltage? it sounds like your battery voltage dropped down to the voltage cut off of the ESC.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:14 AM
  #4214  
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Originally Posted by Lon_L View Post
I think I saw earlier in the thread that someone had rear arms split on the mold line. Add me to that list. Didnt break , just seperated on the end near the wheel and let the pin come out. Since no spare parts exist, I just place the pin back through the hole and ran it that way for the main. It held together and I won the main. We have a Series race in 2 weeks. It would be nice if some parts made it by then. I havent received my gear pins yet either.

The truck drives awesome. But the early amount of slop in the drive line alarms me. I hope it all gets sorted out .
If you have about 30 min, some patience and a couple of parts you can fix it.

Same thing happened here, I took a small metal picture hanger, a 1.5mm screw & nut, my drill w/ a 1/16" drill bit, some 30 min epoxy and a bit of heat shrink tubing and made it better than new.... It works Great..... check the pic.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-131-3142_img.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing View Post
can someone help me with this? or could it possibly be my battery dieing on me?
You still have steering when it stops ? Is it re arming after it stops , or just starts up with no arming tones ?
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