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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-15-2012, 08:19 AM
  #42121  
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Originally Posted by MOE View Post
Does the hobbywing sct pro only have a 3a/6v BEC?
The sct pro recently about a month or two ago had a stronger bec installed in it.Its plenty strong enough to power everything.You will not need an external Bec if thats what your refering to.So no worries there.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:39 AM
  #42122  
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Originally Posted by Losi57 View Post
The sct pro recently about a month or two ago had a stronger bec installed in it.Its plenty strong enough to power everything.You will not need an external Bec if thats what your refering to.So no worries there.
Ive got the old blue version of the Xerun SCT Pro and it runs a Savox 1258 without any issues, but my Ezrun SC8 esc wont without a power cap and they both have a 3a BEC lol

Last edited by .AJ.; 12-15-2012 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:47 AM
  #42123  
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
I've used both a pro 4 tekin 4000kv and 4600kv. This motor runs just as good as either of those. Trust me this 2 pole won't leave you wanting more motor. For the money it can't be beat IMO.
I might just pick one up then. Your runtimes and temps are what really got me interested. I still have my tenshock sc401 as a backup, but i could only get about 8-9 mins max at race pace. The hobbywing looks good (costs 2wice as much), but i've been really happy with my turnigy batteries, let's see how their motors are.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:49 AM
  #42124  
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Thanks for the info I'll be ordering the sct pro and sending the mmp in for repairs or replacement it's only 5 months old.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:38 AM
  #42125  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I might just pick one up then. Your runtimes and temps are what really got me interested. I still have my tenshock sc401 as a backup, but i could only get about 8-9 mins max at race pace. The hobbywing looks good (costs 2wice as much), but i've been really happy with my turnigy batteries, let's see how their motors are.
I'm running their 1/10th motors and 1/8 motors and they all run great. I also run their batteries as well. I've had ZERO issues from anything.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
I'm running their 1/10th motors and 1/8 motors and they all run great. I also run their batteries as well. I've had ZERO issues from anything.
I'll try running both their 8th scale 2100 motor and the motor you're using. I gotta say they look like a great deal and if they're as good as their batteries, then i'll have a heck of a setup.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I'll try running both their 8th scale 2100 motor and the motor you're using. I gotta say they look like a great deal and if they're as good as their batteries, then i'll have a heck of a setup.
You will be very happy. After running all the Turnigy stuff I don't see the point spending big bucks on stuff when the Turnigy parts perform just as well. I have Tekin motors here as well as Turnigy and the Turnigy stuff runs right with the Tekins.....

I have two of the new 1900kv Turnigys on the way to me now.....
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:41 AM
  #42128  
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
You will be very happy. After running all the Turnigy stuff I don't see the point spending big bucks on stuff when the Turnigy parts perform just as well. I have Tekin motors here as well as Turnigy and the Turnigy stuff runs right with the Tekins.....

I have two of the new 1900kv Turnigys on the way to me now.....
I just realized that the sct motor is a vented can. I run on really dusty tracks so that pretty much killed it for me. If i had a well groomed damp indoor clay track, it pick it up no questions asked. Still going to try the 2100 turnigy though.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:03 AM
  #42129  
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Originally Posted by MRDYOSHI View Post
I run an SCTE with the MIP pro4mance set up and will have to say I experienced the same problem. It was slower at first and couldn't figure it... so I re-looked at my set and used Matt Olson's set from SDRC (my local track) and made a few changes to accommodate my driving style. Now... the truck is on rails. This is what I figured out. First: MIP shocks pistons need to be set up in rebound (reverse) I used green & matte white with 50wt F / 45wt R. Blue MIP springs in front and TLR orange rear springs. Second: I tossed the MIP shock towers and kept the TLR ones. They are thicker and seemed to be better (plus look at the notes from Matt O. on them on his set up sheets). Third: Use the short ackerman arm... the truck will benefit from this to help it dive into the corners better. Fourth: Gear up. I found that I need to go up a tooth on pinion because my motor temps were way lower (150* down to the 120's*) because of the freeing up of the drive train... it helps. Lastly: Run it low. I ran my indoor set up outdoor and was still awesome. Fifth: run max anti squat and 3 or 3.5* neg rear toe... .5* makes a huge difference Only thing I changed was ride height to help with the bigger bumps and jumps.

Hopefully that helps. I run up against the Tekno SCT410 all the time (Tekno's home track) and I can keep up with a few of them...and I am not that good. haha
Thanks for the input. I'll try going back to TLR towers and go from there.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I just realized that the sct motor is a vented can. I run on really dusty tracks so that pretty much killed it for me. If i had a well groomed damp indoor clay track, it pick it up no questions asked. Still going to try the 2100 turnigy though.
My track here at the house is really dusty as well and I've had no problems with the vents in the can. I just hit the motor with an air hose when I'm done for the day. So far so good.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:34 AM
  #42131  
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Originally Posted by timamybrown View Post
Already tried that there's something else wrong I rolled back the firmware and it worked for a day then when I was b running in my diffs today if you hold the throttle at one spot it would rev up like I was blipping the throttle so I pulled the sensor wire and it word fine. Updated the firmware plugged the sensor back in and it worked fine. It's not browning out I never lose steering it just jumps stop's then takes off. There is something up with the esc.
Originally Posted by timamybrown View Post
I have 3 sensor wire's all three do the same thing. The only thing that fixes it is changing the firmware it's work's for a little while then back to the same old thing. I thank my firmware is at 1.30 two days ago it was at 1.28 and worked fine. Not sure whats up with it. Just wanted to know if the HW sct pro 120amp worked with the 4600kv tekin i need a back up speedo anyway don't really want to buy it if it's not going to work wright.
Ya, sounds like something is up with your ESC...if you have tried new sensor wires the esc or the motor sensor ports/wiring might have somethign wrong with it.

And yes, the SCT Pro will handle those motors no problem...especially the new version and FalconSekido.com sells the newest version with updated BEC. The HW 120a does have more programming but its not needed on these newer 4pole motors and the motors usually dont like timing as its created heat and u dont want that PLUS the SCT Pro is more rugged built since SCT are usually pretty rough courses and so on
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:16 PM
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Got a question. What makes 4wd SC trucks jump so differently (sometimes) than 1/8th scale. I run the Aaron Lane setup on my SCTE. It has always liked to nose dive a bit when in the air but nothing I could not control. Then this weekend I showed up for practice at a large track (Mike's in Houston). There were two low level, but long jumps that I could not stop my SCTE from plowing into the landing, nose first, unless I did it just right. It was not that easy to do "just right" either. Got tired of breaking crap and was so frustrated that I didn't come back today for the race. First time that has happened to me. Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:46 PM
  #42133  
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Originally Posted by kcobra View Post
Got a question. What makes 4wd SC trucks jump so differently (sometimes) than 1/8th scale. I run the Aaron Lane setup on my SCTE. It has always liked to nose dive a bit when in the air but nothing I could not control. Then this weekend I showed up for practice at a large track (Mike's in Houston). There were two low level, but long jumps that I could not stop my SCTE from plowing into the landing, nose first, unless I did it just right. It was not that easy to do "just right" either. Got tired of breaking crap and was so frustrated that I didn't come back today for the race. First time that has happened to me. Thanks.
Lots of factors make them behave differenty , weight and balance being one , suspension setup , the higer CG from the body and many other things .

But the shape of the jump can have the biggest influence on how the car takes off .
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:52 PM
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Been coming in here for months just for an update on the new diffs.
Finally the wait is over.
Gotta say sure is nice to see things still coming out for this truck.
Now to put them to the test.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:07 AM
  #42135  
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kcobra,

The attitude of your SCTE coming off jumps can be controlled with throttle.

Example, if you hold down the throttle leaving the jump you will keep the nose up (maybe too much), if you let off the throttle after leaving the jump (or hit the brakes) you will force the nose down.

Try giving a little more throttle before your landing if the nose is down, and you can raise the nose.

Try holding your truck in your hand and give it throttle, then brake. You'll see what happens in the air.
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