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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-06-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Marwell View Post
I'm prety long in this hobby, last two years pretty mutch in it So i know how should ir move, i think so

Diffs are so now, i think it works good, truck seems to be stable in corners and on straight.

I know, but i think its easier to change the oil instead...

What pistons are the stock ones?

SO you sugest just to soften the oils by 2.5? I thout it would be good to lower them for about 7.5...
Stocks are #3. I would not go more then 5 personally but you may want to try 7.5. I can't remember the last time I raced in weather colder then 10C
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:31 PM
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Ha, the climate is highly different in northern europe you know When in January the track temps are almost zero... Very hard days for lipos

Okay, i have a competition in two weeks, will try different oils, think of starting dropped by 10, front 22.5 , rear 17.5
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:25 PM
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Diff build tip.

If your building your new housing and gluing the inserts, make sure you press the insert down without using a flat surface as the backing your pressing against. The steel insert stick out of the back of the housing by 1/16" or so. So gluing it in that position will cause the differential gears to bind. I glued a 3rd diff (yes, took me 2 to figure what I was doing wrong) using a 14mm socket under the diff to allow the steel insert to protrude past the end of the housing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:37 PM
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Marwell 1k in rear right? Do i really need to change the pistons, i dont love that job at all Cant i just make that cjange by changinf flueds or shocks?

Suspension seen to be quit heavy, when i push the truck down it doesnt seem to get up almost at all, only about 2-3mm in front ant about 5 in rear...
The rear shock angle makes the suspension stick, if you remount the bottom of the shock on the outside of the arm with a longer bolt the rebound is much better.
Paul
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:01 AM
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thanks Paul, will try do so, and the front ones works same yeah?
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:15 AM
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Casper,

On newly rebuilt shocks (w/bladders), I'm noticing some air getting in the shocks after a just a few runs.

Any idea how the air is getting in, and how to stop the problem?

Thanks,
Don C
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:23 AM
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Is losi holding off on the new diffs till new truck ?
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:18 AM
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All ready for my clubs winter series




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Old 12-07-2012, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtruck View Post
Is losi holding off on the new diffs till new truck ?
what new diffs in whitch new truck? dont heart anything sorry
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine View Post
The rear shock angle makes the suspension stick, if you remount the bottom of the shock on the outside of the arm with a longer bolt the rebound is much better.
Paul
I am not sure that the rear shock angle should make the shock stick in any position. I use all of them from time to time and have never had any sticking issues. As far as a truck that is not rebounding, check the regular suspects...

-nut holding top of shock is too tight
-possible bent hinge pin but that is very rare
-sway bar set screws too tight (should easily wiggle back and forth)
-rear hinge pin holder too tight. (I see this more than you think)
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:59 AM
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> rear hinge pin holder too tight. (I see this more than you think)

This is definitely one to check, I've seen this a lot.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
> rear hinge pin holder too tight. (I see this more than you think)

This is definitely one to check, I've seen this a lot.
Are you guys talking about the inner or outer? I can't see how eith one could be over torqued as my outer is 1/8" longer then the arm and the inner hits on the diff case. I guess with the TLR adjustable mounts you could not have the inserts seated all the way.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Are you guys talking about the inner or outer? I can't see how eith one could be over torqued as my outer is 1/8" longer then the arm and the inner hits on the diff case. I guess with the TLR adjustable mounts you could not have the inserts seated all the way.
I am referring to the outer. The screws that hold this in place are long and have lots of thread and therfore can be highly over torqued to the point it crushes the casing and the arms get pinched.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DRC View Post
Casper,

On newly rebuilt shocks (w/bladders), I'm noticing some air getting in the shocks after a just a few runs.

Any idea how the air is getting in, and how to stop the problem?

Thanks,
Don C
If built properly you would have to loose oil to get air in. The bladders may not be seated properly or moved and this could create a leak path?
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by .AJ. View Post
All ready for my clubs winter series




Excellent motor/esc combo. Been running that same HW/Tenshock combo all summer. Can not be beat for $140! Matches $300+ systems in every way.
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