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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Old 12-04-2012, 01:19 PM
  #41761  
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So what are all your opinions on drag-break ?
Use it, or don't ? And if you use it, what settings ?

I'm curious to see how people drive
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy
So what are all your opinions on drag-break ?
Use it, or don't ? And if you use it, what settings ?

I'm curious to see how people drive
I run 3-10% on high bite tracks if I need my truck to be more aggressive.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:56 PM
  #41763  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I run 3-10% on high bite tracks if I need my truck to be more aggressive.


Wouldnt that make the nose diving worse on this truck and more heat on a high traction surface like carpet ? I think it would help great for tight indoor tracks.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:21 PM
  #41764  
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Hopefully Losi will come out with the new truck as soon as they get the new 8 done. Them will can start a new tread call it Losi scte 2.0
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:35 PM
  #41765  
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I heard by end of december or sometime in January from a good source... But not holding my breath. :-)
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:39 PM
  #41766  
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
The quietness comes from the spurs being machined and not molded. You get more of well refined spur when they are cut. Also the material is not delrin but nylon.

The spurs give you a variety of gear ratios contrary to what you already have.
I would have liked a stock tooth count, I don't really want to change my current setup, a little quieter would be nice though.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:58 PM
  #41767  
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Originally Posted by jnyrcr
I would have liked a stock tooth count, I don't really want to change my current setup, a little quieter would be nice though.
I always ran 14/40 wherever I went but when I switched to the 41 on indoor tracks and to the 39 on outdoor tracks it was night and day! Believe me the spur choices will inhance whatever setup you currently have
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:11 PM
  #41768  
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Seems like more work than just changing the pinion... What's the point?
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Wouldnt that make the nose diving worse on this truck and more heat on a high traction surface like carpet ? I think it would help great for tight indoor tracks.
Maybe. I don't run on carpet so idk.
I run my battery back with a custom mount to get some of the weight off the nose.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:34 PM
  #41770  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Seems like more work than just changing the pinion... What's the point?
he said more tuning options...allows you to fine tune your final gear ratio and the plus side is its also quieter
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Maybe. I don't run on carpet so idk.
I run my battery back with a custom mount to get some of the weight off the nose.
The custom battery box, is that something you made or the one from Chris Atterbury? What kind of track do you run.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:24 PM
  #41772  
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It uses the end plates from the Attebury mount. I run the snr graphite chassis and mount the battery flat on it for lower cog. I scaled the truck to get 50/50 weight distribution before I drilled the mount holes.
I run medium/high bite dirt or clay. Never tried carpet but it sounds fun.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:13 PM
  #41773  
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so i'm new to the SCTE. I bought the ARR and before i put all the electronics in it i was going to correct all of the bad things i heard about the truck i.e. diff, weight problem, chassis. So i started with the rear diff, taking out the old grease and replacing it with oil(3k weight). I tore it down cleaned it out throughly. I put it back together tighten the screws, and the outdrives wouldn't spin. I took it back apart and removed the shim, CA the inserts and put it back together. Now it spins freely. Is it ok to run without the shims? or did i do something wrong putting it together the first time?
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:17 PM
  #41774  
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You really want to use the shims. My front diff did the same thing after i ca'd it. I found out you really have to put exactly the right amount of ca around the insert, or the diff will bind. What i did to the diff i over ca'd, was i put 2 paper seals to make it feel like it should. My other 2 diffs worked fine after i put just the right amount of ca on them.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:20 PM
  #41775  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
You really want to use the shims. My front diff did the same thing after i ca'd it. I found out you really have to put exactly the right amount of ca around the insert, or the diff will bind. What i did to the diff i over ca'd, was i put 2 paper seals to make it feel like it should. My other 2 diffs worked fine after i put just the right amount of ca on them.
ok so i need to try and take out the inserts and reglue them and add the shims?
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