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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-19-2011, 03:29 PM
  #4156  
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
so my novak and mmp have to many issues , sensor wire , over heating, heating up my battery's. etc i was running a castle 1512 1.5 y in my slash but the can was a lil to big to fit in the ten properly. so i shimmed the four bolts of the center diff apprx 1/8 and my motor slid right in. very close to the outdrive but not touching. do you guys think shimming the center diff up 1/8 will affect it much or not? i didnt wanna dremel off the lil motor kick stand as i also ordered the castle 1410 new 4 pole motor yesterday. but my slash never over heated with the mmp 1512 1.5 combo so i wanted to install it and try it out.
HMMM. What was I telling people a few pages back.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:08 PM
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Ok, I just took my diffs apart to put in new pins, but that's not the only place I have a lot of play. My out drives have a ton of play when you slide the side gear on it, The gear ID is 5.08 mm and the out drive is 4.79 mm. Have any of you checked this stuff, plus there is a notch toward the outside of the out drive, (o ring?) but the instructions don't show one going there. I'm wondering if I could get one to fit so it would help on the silicone coming out. I don't know about you guys but I don't think there should be that much play in the side gear on the out drive.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:15 PM
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You apply losi black grease to the notch this helps seal everything.
Watch this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm7gQCbnWMs
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
Ok, I just took my diffs apart to put in new pins, but that's not the only place I have a lot of play. My out drives have a ton of play when you slide the side gear on it, The gear ID is 5.08 mm and the out drive is 4.79 mm. Have any of you checked this stuff, plus there is a notch toward the outside of the out drive, (o ring?) but the instructions don't show one going there. I'm wondering if I could get one to fit so it would help on the silicone coming out. I don't know about you guys but I don't think there should be that much play in the side gear on the out drive.
The notch definitely doesn't need an o-ring. If you try to put one there it will mess your cars handling up totally. That's if you could even jam one in there. The groove is simply to hold grease.

I do agree that the outdrives seem to be very loose in the diffs, but I haven't heard of that particular issue causing problems. I guess time will tell, but I'm not worried about it.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:31 PM
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OK, so I was able to drill and tap the motor mount hole for a M4 screw. Much more secure now as long as I didn't weaken the thing enough for the aluminum to break to pieces on the first hard hit. We'll see.

I also found that landing that single jump flat also seems to have killed my Ballistic 4.5 HV. My Losi speedo cogs mercilessly now and I thought the ESC was bad like so many xcelorins are, but I hooked my hobbywing ESC to it and it seemed slow and not too smooth but no cogging. It turns out that I had an error code flashing on the Hobbywing ESC indicating there was a failure in the sensor and it switches automatically to non sensored.

So....is the hall sensor built in to the removable end bell on these things? Does anyone know if Novak sells them separate and for how much?
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mavrick0 View Post
You apply losi black grease to the notch this helps seal everything.
Watch this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm7gQCbnWMs
Thanks for the link. I've seen the Drake shock rebuild vid, but not the diff. I did not know about the black grease in the groove. My front diff on the 810e has been leaking since new. When I get new pins I use the black grease during rebuild.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mavrick0 View Post
You apply losi black grease to the notch this helps seal everything.
Watch this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm7gQCbnWMs
Never knew to put grease in there. Yea I tried the sc10 small o rings, there was no way. I also tried putting 2 flat thrust washer under the side gear and that took a lot of play out but it had to much bind. Thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
The notch definitely doesn't need an o-ring. If you try to put one there it will mess your cars handling up totally. That's if you could even jam one in there. The groove is simply to hold grease.

I do agree that the outdrives seem to be very loose in the diffs, but I haven't heard of that particular issue causing problems. I guess time will tell, but I'm not worried about it.
Way to loose to me also.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
OK, so I was able to drill and tap the motor mount hole for a M4 screw. Much more secure now as long as I didn't weaken the thing enough for the aluminum to break to pieces on the first hard hit. We'll see.

I also found that landing that single jump flat also seems to have killed my Ballistic 4.5 HV. My Losi speedo cogs mercilessly now and I thought the ESC was bad like so many xcelorins are, but I hooked my hobbywing ESC to it and it seemed slow and not too smooth but no cogging. It turns out that I had an error code flashing on the Hobbywing ESC indicating there was a failure in the sensor and it switches automatically to non sensored.

So....is the hall sensor built in to the removable end bell on these things? Does anyone know if Novak sells them separate and for how much?
Sensor ports do go bad and are replaceable in some motors I know my trinity 550 is replaceable. You might check that or just remove the sensor wire and run the thing sensoreless with the castle.
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:38 PM
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Just thought Id share a picture of my trimmed down SCTE. Dropped close to a half lb by ditching all the unnecessary stuff. No RX box or battery tray. Ditched 80% of the mud guards (just kept the front couple inches to deflect some of the dirt coming off the front wheels) cut the extra inch+ of body posts sticking out the bottom of the body mounts, cut the extra guard off of the center diff top plate.

Still have to put the titanium turnbuckles on it to shave a little more. I'm thinking about taking my chassis into work and having some pockets milled into it in some strategic places to get a little more weight out of it. I want to get this down to under 6lbs. Its at 6.2 now. I started at about 6.7lbs before the mods I mentioned above.

The battery is just held to the chassis with Velcro on the bottom and the single strap that I used some old goriallamax battery strap clamps to mount.

Im running a 6200mah trackpower battery and could probably save a little more if I went to something like a 5300 thunderpower.

Another big help was lowering the body mounts all the way as low as they could go. I needed to trim the wheel wells a bit more on the body to keep the tires from rubbing.

I took it out to the track this morning for a few practice laps with this weight reduction and it definitely feels a bit more nimble that it did in stock trim. I need to spend a little more time working on the setup but I really feel like its starting to come toghether. I need to play with some more dif and shock setups when I have more time next time.

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Old 03-19-2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Just thought Id share a picture of my trimmed down SCTE. Dropped close to a half lb by ditching all the unnecessary stuff. No RX box or battery tray. Ditched 80% of the mud guards (just kept the front couple inches to deflect some of the dirt coming off the front wheels) cut the extra inch+ of body posts sticking out the bottom of the body mounts, cut the extra guard off of the center diff top plate.

Still have to put the titanium turnbuckles on it to shave a little more. I'm thinking about taking my chassis into work and having some pockets milled into it in some strategic places to get a little more weight out of it. I want to get this down to under 6lbs. Its at 6.2 now. I started at about 6.7lbs before the mods I mentioned above.

The battery is just held to the chassis with Velcro on the bottom and the single strap that I used some old goriallamax battery strap clamps to mount.

Im running a 6200mah trackpower battery and could probably save a little more if I went to something like a 5300 thunderpower.

Another big help was lowering the body mounts all the way as low as they could go. I needed to trim the wheel wells a bit more on the body to keep the tires from rubbing.

I took it out to the track this morning for a few practice laps with this weight reduction and it definitely feels a bit more nimble that it did in stock trim. I need to spend a little more time working on the setup but I really feel like its starting to come toghether. I need to play with some more dif and shock setups when I have more time next time.

Wow you must race with some pretty courteous people, where we race that set-up wouldn't last long, too many missiles.
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:34 PM
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I ran the Castle 1415 in mine today on 2s. I think it had more low end grunt than the tekin 5.5. I had to run a 25 tooth pinion to get the same top end since on 2s it is only about 17k rpms. Ran great and ice cold. A tad cooler tha my 5.5. I could clear one jump with the 1415 the 5.5 couldnt make with short run up due to the increased torque.

Much prefer the 1415.
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by shortcut View Post
Wow you must race with some pretty courteous people, where we race that set-up wouldn't last long, too many missiles.
Not sure what you mean? What wouldn't last?
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Edumakated View Post
... I had to run a 25 tooth pinion to get the same top end...
A 25t pinion???? Are you serious?? I'm pretty sure a 20t is the biggest that will fit in the stock mount. How did you get a 25t in there? Pics?
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:50 PM
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I've tried to keep up best I can, but it is hard and I'm old, so help me out...

What kinda of problems have been run into with these out of the box and what mods have people been doing to overcome them?

Also, info on whatever other mods all the koolkids are doing too please!

Grassyass amigos!
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by S/X Runner View Post
A 25t pinion???? Are you serious?? I'm pretty sure a 20t is the biggest that will fit in the stock mount. How did you get a 25t in there? Pics?
I think Russ uses the Elite Rc mount ?
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