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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-26-2012, 07:18 AM
  #41476  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
Integy is on discount. Just glue the edges.
Sorry but I'm not letting anything Integy near my truck, has anyone used the FTW ones????

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...hock-Tower-Set
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by .AJ. View Post
Sorry but I'm not letting anything Integy near my truck, has anyone used the FTW ones????

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...hock-Tower-Set


TLR ones are the best but i heard those intergy ones are not bad... One of the few things they make that work i guess...
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:36 PM
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Argh, I've rebuilt my rear diff 4 times now and I still can't get it working okay. (Rebuilt center and front diffs before without any problem)

I removed the stock grease and installed with the TLR gearbox bearing inserts, Tekno outdrives and Chris' Ape-RC's hardened shims / bushings and Losi 3k oil.

Result was notchy. Mounting it on the car trying to turn my wheels results in it feeling heavier than my frontwheels. Turning the pinion by hand looks like power is transferred to the front more. If I give one of my front-wheels a spin, it'll rotate easy and keep doing so for a very short while after I release it. The back-wheels on the other hand stop *immediately*.

Disassembled entire thing, reassembled. Paid extra attention to pushing everything inside as far as possible. Same result.

Disassembled entire thing again, tried without the tiny washers next to the bushings / spidergear. Same result.

Disassembled entire thing again, tried using stock bushings instead of Ape-RC. Same result....

Any pro-tips ?

Edit:
Disconnected the center driveshaft, if I spin my right wheel by hand my left wheel rotates in the opposite direction only slowly, seems like some/lots of the power goes to where the center driveshaft connects. If I spin the left wheel by hand, the right wheel spins nicely in the opposite direction like I expect it to. Could this mean it's not in the diff, but maybe the left wheel/driveshaft/bearing(-insert) is catching somewhere ?

Last edited by Pygmy; 11-26-2012 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Argh, I've rebuilt my rear diff 4 times now and I still can't get it working okay. (Rebuilt center and front diffs before without any problem)

I removed the stock grease and installed with the TLR gearbox bearing inserts, Tekno outdrives and Chris' Ape-RC's hardened shims / bushings and Losi 3k oil.

Result was notchy. Mounting it on the car trying to turn my wheels results in it feeling heavier than my frontwheels. Turning the pinion by hand looks like power is transferred to the front more. If I give one of my front-wheels a spin, it'll rotate easy and keep doing so for a very short while after I release it. The back-wheels on the other hand stop *immediately*.

Disassembled entire thing, reassembled. Paid extra attention to pushing everything inside as far as possible. Same result.

Disassembled entire thing again, tried without the tiny washers next to the bushings / spidergear. Same result.

Disassembled entire thing again, tried using stock bushings instead of Ape-RC. Same result....

Any pro-tips ?
You are dealing with two different things here.

1) you have the diff
It sounds like you are doing what you can to get the diff to be more smooth. When holding the diff in your hand before putting in the car, is it smooth? If so, then its your ring and pinion mesh...if not, then you may try two seals...

2) you have the ring and pinion mesh (since you are using the TLR aluminum bearing inserts)
If the diff is smooth, move on to checking the ring and pinion mesh, this is why the shims are included with those inserts. The goal is to get the ring gear spaced as close to the pinion gear but without making it too tight which results in a notchy feeling and it does not spin freely. So, put the diff in place and move it side to side, if you can push it towards the pinion, then you want to place a shim on the opposite side to shim it towards the pinion some. If it is too tight at that point, you may not have a bearing seated all the way. Once you get it shimmed where you think its right, place the other half of the diff case back in place and hold it tightly and see how the shaft rotates. If its free, and you got most of the play gone, then you are good to go.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:21 PM
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Ah.

If you hear anything right now that's probably the sound of me hitting myself with a fryingpan. I thought the shims were supposed to go on either sides of the bearings.
(Well at least I have the excuse that these things don't come with a manual..)

Cheers, I hope to get another go at it tomorrow and fix it for once and for all
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Seriously? You need more speed with a 4600? Wow....
I have a 4000 and it is overkill to me!

What ya doing, speed runs on pavement?

FYI: The Pro4 will only get hotter quicker with more timing, that's why most of us don't run any timing on our Pro4's...
No speed runs, I run on a large 1/8 track with two long straight. I may just add an additional tooth and what I get. thanks
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:37 PM
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Default Kings head chassis

I was wondering that anybody has any problems with the kings had chassis
I noticed I have two cracks in my.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
if you get the 3500kv version of the SC411, you can run a 3S with that. as for the 4600kv version, yes, you can gear it taller than the tekin 4600.



i haven't eaten any batteries with my SC411 4600, but i did eat one with the 4700kv hobbywing. as far as getting hot, that is nonsense. most of the people i run with run pro-4 4600's with a 14T pinion and they come off the track 170-180. i run a 14T on my SC411 and i come off 130-140. i have run as high as 16T on a large outdoor track with temps around 160. i didn't do a lot of testing with the hobbywing (i have run all three of these motors personally), so i don't really have a lot of temp data for it. after it ate a battery with a 14T pinion, i took it out of my truck.

narrow gap for gearing? wtf? where are you coming up with this stuff about tenshock motors? have you ever personally run one?
did you even bother to read my signature? Says it plain as day. Both me and my friend run tenshock motors and they eat batteries quick and i can barely make 9-10 mins. I said they get hot without a fan as my sc401 4600 on a 14t pinion got up to 210 without a fan. My temps went to 170 with a 13t pinion. Hence the narrow gap for gearing? They're good motor's, just there is better. My friend now runs a hobbywing 4700 and he says it's a huge improvement over the tenshock sc411 he had in there before.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
My friend now runs a hobbywing 4700 and he says it's a huge improvement over the tenshock sc411 he had in there before.
thats right...I love my 4700 and run 13t and runs kool to touch and thought about trying a 14t just to see what speeds, driving, and heat i get out of it BUT we are now indoor and the 13t is way to much and since no control on the esc to drop power, i turned down the remote EPA for throttle for a last resort and seemed to work
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
did you even bother to read my signature? Says it plain as day. Both me and my friend run tenshock motors and they eat batteries quick and i can barely make 9-10 mins. I said they get hot without a fan as my sc401 4600 on a 14t pinion got up to 210 without a fan. My temps went to 170 with a 13t pinion. Hence the narrow gap for gearing? They're good motor's, just there is better. My friend now runs a hobbywing 4700 and he says it's a huge improvement over the tenshock sc411 he had in there before.



Like i was saying maybe ive had luck with the Tenshock 401 motor but the hottest it ever ran was 166 it usually runs at 145 to 150 degress. Thats with no fan or heatsink with no timing.

I even ran a 30c 2s to try out on my stock SCTE and never got warm but the punch did start to go down in about 5 min .

Now im still wondering guys on here say to disable the punch control on it ? Because i think this motor needs more punch . I know on my RC8T electric with the punch control to 60% to 70% the motor runs cooler than having it at 0%.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:00 PM
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My truck pushes in turns... battery forward or back?? Im running it forward now and have been since day one but maybe someone else has seen an advantage otherwise
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by M1kect View Post
My truck pushes in turns... battery forward or back?? Im running it forward now and have been since day one but maybe someone else has seen an advantage otherwise
post your set up, tires used and track conditions....
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by M1kect View Post
My truck pushes in turns... battery forward or back?? Im running it forward now and have been since day one but maybe someone else has seen an advantage otherwise
You just running the kit setup?
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:27 PM
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Casper, what do you run for front pivot block inserts?
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fastchvy View Post
Casper, what do you run for front pivot block inserts?
I still run 0's all around. I have tried a few different settings from time to time and keep going back to 0's
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