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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-19-2012, 06:25 PM
  #41281  
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Originally Posted by skrib21 View Post
Thanks for the advice scholler I just checked it and recalibrated, that's not it either.
What about your center on ur cntrller with the trim, also try older firmware with the castle link. Its been a while since the castle days for me
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Scottie where did you get those shocks? They're $100 for a set of 4 on tlr's website. What's the cheapest place to get them? I'm guessing ebay.
Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
Fronts off RcTech for 20 bucks, and the rears of ebay fo 30
right on...i think i got about $70 shipped into mine from JennyRC on eBay BUT keep in mind if the kit HERE is what your thinking...your better off getting the kit shown above cuz you get the TiNi shafts, alum caps, and the piston set and we got the basic shocks with all being plastic except the body and the shock collar so if you got a LHS guy, he might be able to get it cheaper as mine can usually get parts alittle cheaper than what the losi parts are listed online but even on ebay you can get it for about $100/$102 shipped
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Before I forget, here's a new report on the Hot Racing aluminium diff cases

a couple of weeks ago I bought and installed one for my center diff. FYI, the HR aluminium diff doesn't have / use the metal inserts that cause the leaking in the stock diffs.
So far, my center diff isn't leaking. That's the good part.

So I ordered 2 more for front- and rear-diffs. Went about installing the front one tonight, and found out when assembling the diff the screws wouldn't go deep enough into the aluminium housing, meaning I couldn't tighten - thus assemble - the diff.
Switched the casing with the other new one I had, that one works fine.

So my opinion so far - my center diff isn't leaking, but quality control at HR seems to be questionable since one of my diffs seems to miss deep enough screw threading or something.
whats the weight difference of the HR diff vs. stock?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
right on...i think i got about $70 shipped into mine from JennyRC on eBay BUT keep in mind if the kit HERE is what your thinking...your better off getting the kit shown above cuz you get the TiNi shafts, alum caps, and the piston set and we got the basic shocks with all being plastic except the body and the shock collar so if you got a LHS guy, he might be able to get it cheaper as mine can usually get parts alittle cheaper than what the losi parts are listed online but even on ebay you can get it for about $100/$102 shipped


So you think i'm better off getting the kit you linked me to or finding some on ebay? Didn't quite understand what you meant. Still, $100 for shocks is a lot. Not going to spend any money yet, as i want to see what tekno and losi have planned for next season's kits.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by skrib21 View Post
Thanks for the advice scholler I just checked it and recalibrated, that's not it either.
i cannot remember for sure but i thought my friend said he couldnt run the pro4 4600 on the mmp. i might be wrong. not enough voltage?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:16 PM
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whats a good body to run, i tried the new losi pre cut body and a proline flotek...both bodies dont seem wide enough..the body that fits the best so far is a stock durango body, slips right on, same body holes...anybody running the SC andy body?
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:59 PM
  #41287  
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Originally Posted by fastchvy View Post
whats a good body to run, i tried the new losi pre cut body and a proline flotek...both bodies dont seem wide enough..the body that fits the best so far is a stock durango body, slips right on, same body holes...anybody running the SC andy body?
andy's one should be smaller according to Matt's car photo.

may be you can try JC hi-flow, my best sc body so far and should cover well.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:46 AM
  #41288  
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Originally Posted by fastchvy View Post
whats the weight difference of the HR diff vs. stock?
about 6g per diff.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:36 AM
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Wondered why my wheels dont center sometimes. The flimsy front servo bracket is not holding the front of the servo in place. Any tips on how to fix/diy that?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by skrib21 View Post
Hey guys I need some help . I just installed a pro4 4600 into my truck and now it stops If I go full throttle from a dead stop. I am runnin a mmp with cc bec , pro match racing 60c batteries, gearing is 15/40.

I have tried several different setting in the esc only thing that makes it work right is if I set the torque limit to 6 but then it is super slow taking off. Tried new sensor wire, not it. If I unplug the the sensor wire it seems to work fine. The esc doesn't completly power down the green light is flashin showing I am giving it throttle as soon as I let off and apply throttle again it moves.

Anyone ever experience this ????
Try going to a different firmware version. I've seen a couple guys here have the same issue and they went to the older firmware and it fixed it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
Wondered why my wheels dont center sometimes. The flimsy front servo bracket is not holding the front of the servo in place. Any tips on how to fix/diy that?
Make sure the servo saver is tight. These can back off over time so something to check and a little thread lock will keep it in place. You should have about 2mm of thread showing below the nut. What servo are you using? Will it center on a smooth surface like a glass table top verse on a pit towel that will have more friction?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:42 AM
  #41292  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Make sure the servo saver is tight.
I don't think a loose servo can be fixed by tightening the servo-saver... Sounds like he needs a new servo-mount.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
I don't think a loose servo can be fixed by tightening the servo-saver... Sounds like he needs a new servo-mount.
The problem is the plastic part that holds the front screws of the servo from below in place. I have to zip-tie or something the servo to the holder so that it doesnt move.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:56 AM
  #41294  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
The problem is the plastic part that holds the front screws of the servo from below in place. I have to zip-tie or something the servo to the holder so that it doesnt move.
In the servo mounts, one side can directly screw on and the other side requires a bracket that fits under the servo mounts.

Are you missing that plastic bracket?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:57 AM
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I guess I mis understood what he wrote. If all the screws are tight and you did not hack up the radio box/servo mount it should be pretty solid unless something is stripped. A few people have had servo saver issues which is why I mentioned that. It will sometime back off and make the steering feel sluggish.
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