Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
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Before I forget, here's a new report on the Hot Racing aluminium diff cases 
a couple of weeks ago I bought and installed one for my center diff. FYI, the HR aluminium diff doesn't have / use the metal inserts that cause the leaking in the stock diffs.
So far, my center diff isn't leaking. That's the good part.
So I ordered 2 more for front- and rear-diffs. Went about installing the front one tonight, and found out when assembling the diff the screws wouldn't go deep enough into the aluminium housing, meaning I couldn't tighten - thus assemble - the diff.
Switched the casing with the other new one I had, that one works fine.
So my opinion so far - my center diff isn't leaking, but quality control at HR seems to be questionable since one of my diffs seems to miss deep enough screw threading or something.

a couple of weeks ago I bought and installed one for my center diff. FYI, the HR aluminium diff doesn't have / use the metal inserts that cause the leaking in the stock diffs.
So far, my center diff isn't leaking. That's the good part.
So I ordered 2 more for front- and rear-diffs. Went about installing the front one tonight, and found out when assembling the diff the screws wouldn't go deep enough into the aluminium housing, meaning I couldn't tighten - thus assemble - the diff.
Switched the casing with the other new one I had, that one works fine.
So my opinion so far - my center diff isn't leaking, but quality control at HR seems to be questionable since one of my diffs seems to miss deep enough screw threading or something.

right on...i think i got about $70 shipped into mine from JennyRC on eBay BUT keep in mind if the kit HERE is what your thinking...your better off getting the kit shown above cuz you get the TiNi shafts, alum caps, and the piston set and we got the basic shocks with all being plastic except the body and the shock collar so if you got a LHS guy, he might be able to get it cheaper as mine can usually get parts alittle cheaper than what the losi parts are listed online but even on ebay you can get it for about $100/$102 shipped
So you think i'm better off getting the kit you linked me to or finding some on ebay? Didn't quite understand what you meant. Still, $100 for shocks is a lot. Not going to spend any money yet, as i want to see what tekno and losi have planned for next season's kits.

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whats a good body to run, i tried the new losi pre cut body and a proline flotek...both bodies dont seem wide enough..the body that fits the best so far is a stock durango body, slips right on, same body holes...anybody running the SC andy body?
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may be you can try JC hi-flow, my best sc body so far and should cover well.

Wondered why my wheels dont center sometimes. The flimsy front servo bracket is not holding the front of the servo in place. Any tips on how to fix/diy that?

Hey guys I need some help . I just installed a pro4 4600 into my truck and now it stops If I go full throttle from a dead stop. I am runnin a mmp with cc bec , pro match racing 60c batteries, gearing is 15/40.
I have tried several different setting in the esc only thing that makes it work right is if I set the torque limit to 6 but then it is super slow taking off. Tried new sensor wire, not it. If I unplug the the sensor wire it seems to work fine. The esc doesn't completly power down the green light is flashin showing I am giving it throttle as soon as I let off and apply throttle again it moves.
Anyone ever experience this ????
I have tried several different setting in the esc only thing that makes it work right is if I set the torque limit to 6 but then it is super slow taking off. Tried new sensor wire, not it. If I unplug the the sensor wire it seems to work fine. The esc doesn't completly power down the green light is flashin showing I am giving it throttle as soon as I let off and apply throttle again it moves.
Anyone ever experience this ????

Make sure the servo saver is tight. These can back off over time so something to check and a little thread lock will keep it in place. You should have about 2mm of thread showing below the nut. What servo are you using? Will it center on a smooth surface like a glass table top verse on a pit towel that will have more friction?

The problem is the plastic part that holds the front screws of the servo from below in place. I have to zip-tie or something the servo to the holder so that it doesnt move.
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Are you missing that plastic bracket?

I guess I mis understood what he wrote. If all the screws are tight and you did not hack up the radio box/servo mount it should be pretty solid unless something is stripped. A few people have had servo saver issues which is why I mentioned that. It will sometime back off and make the steering feel sluggish.