Allen720

iTrader: (33)

i cannot remember for sure but i thought my friend said he couldnt run the pro4 4600 on the mmp. i might be wrong. not enough voltage?

fastchvy

iTrader: (15)

whats a good body to run, i tried the new losi pre cut body and a proline flotek...both bodies dont seem wide enough..the body that fits the best so far is a stock durango body, slips right on, same body holes...anybody running the SC andy body?

Marco926

andy's one should be smaller according to Matt's car photo.

may be you can try JC hi-flow, my best sc body so far and should cover well.

dtr

about 6g per diff.

nanoverse

Wondered why my wheels dont center sometimes. The flimsy front servo bracket is not holding the front of the servo in place. Any tips on how to fix/diy that?

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Try going to a different firmware version. I've seen a couple guys here have the same issue and they went to the older firmware and it fixed it.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Make sure the servo saver is tight. These can back off over time so something to check and a little thread lock will keep it in place. You should have about 2mm of thread showing below the nut. What servo are you using? Will it center on a smooth surface like a glass table top verse on a pit towel that will have more friction?

Pygmy

I don't think a loose servo can be fixed by tightening the servo-saver... Sounds like he needs a new servo-mount.

nanoverse

The problem is the plastic part that holds the front screws of the servo from below in place. I have to zip-tie or something the servo to the holder so that it doesnt move.

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

In the servo mounts, one side can directly screw on and the other side requires a bracket that fits under the servo mounts.

Are you missing that plastic bracket?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I guess I mis understood what he wrote. If all the screws are tight and you did not hack up the radio box/servo mount it should be pretty solid unless something is stripped. A few people have had servo saver issues which is why I mentioned that. It will sometime back off and make the steering feel sluggish.

skrib21

iTrader: (32)

I hooked up the castle link but it doesnt give me an option to go back to an older firmware, only options is to reload V1.38. Im using the latest castle link software (V3.52.10) .
Is there anywere to download an older version of the castlelink software?
I see that in firmware V1.33 they added a timeout protection against a stuck rotor ,perhaps the truck isnt accelerating fast enough from a dead stop and its going inot this protect mode?

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

What would a 55 piston be comparable to in SAE? I already AE pistons in my box and thinking of trying them instead of picking up the 55's.

1.5
1.6
1.7

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

If your like me and would end up doing the alum upgrade parts, then yes, get the kit i linked cuz i ended up buying the caps(non-bleeders), spring bottoms(holders) and the piston kit and pry have the $20-30 difference plus i still dont have TiNi shafts and those alone could possibly put you over $100 if you spend $60-70 on the shocks unless you can get a good deal on some used shocks but would be worried how much you would end up putting into those and why i just bought the NEW TAKE OFF's on ebay. Yes, $100 is alot in shocks but i run on larger tracks and our own track has some pretty big jumps and my truck weighs like 6.8lbs or so, so theres alot of weight smacking around and why i wanted the larger shocks

00Pocho

I had a similar problem as you after I updated to the newest firmware. I would get a mean turbo lag effect on the bottom end. I later read that the older MMP's don't work with the newer firmware. I was able to downgrade the firmware through the castle link.