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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-19-2012, 03:08 AM
  #41236  
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Originally Posted by Haha101 View Post
i am on a budget are there any other comparable speed controlers? how are the castles? i can get those pretty cheap
Super happy with the Hobbywing Sct Pro and 4000kv combo!
Guys that have their Tekin crap out were surprised at the performance.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:00 AM
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I am running a mamba max pro and castle 3800 motor and i am competitve in racing. i also like the adjustments that you can do with the castle esc. If you get a good servo with High torque and speed you will most likely need an external bec with the castle esc. You will probably want the carbon towers. The aluminum towers bend easy. Tires that run well on your track also help a lot. as a new racer that is where i started and am working on the driving skills now before i get into a 300 electronics package. A lot of guys swear by a new chassis but you will never find the perfect one they all have a different opinion on the best.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:17 AM
  #41238  
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Are the HA balls 7076?
LOSB2187 is the part number for this pack and they are 7075

Originally Posted by fastchvy View Post
The shock o-rings i have are the clear square one's, they are the one's that fit extremely tight. I've taken an end mill and opened up the hole in the shock itself within a couple thousands if the size of the o-rings and the fit alot better with alot less friction with no oil in the shock, i ran it for the past 2 days with no leaks and the truck has alot more grip giving the shock can travel at the speed the oil requires for its weight.

Like i said the truck is great and i deal with these few little things but every little bit counts.

Have you guys tried to RTV the o-rings in place after installed?

Do you have a part number for the square o-rings, bought a bunch from amain and in the picture they give you on the site it shows the square one's but when you get them they are round..

do you have a part number for the HA rod end balls too?
The part number for the balls is above, the o-ring come in the shock rebuild pack and it is LOSB2906

Originally Posted by fastchvy View Post
Its very hard to set camber and toe with slop, i dont wing it, i have a camber guage to get it exact...I'm use to it though as i raced a losi 2.0 for about 5 years. I just mentioned a few things and thats it, other manafactures plastics and parts "DO NOT" have these issues. Maybe its the material being used. I have nothing against the truck at all, "ITS BADA$$" but i will be honest and not bs people
I do agree and the HA balls will help drastically with this. Our plastics are certainly different and have proven to be very strong, albeit it, the end do develop some slop over time, certainly agree with this. I wasnt putting you down at all, I hope you understand this, just responding to what I had read. As I said, I always appreciate the feedback as thats how we make things better or at least try to, lol.

Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
+1 Ryan and Casper do a great job helping out the community using RCtech as a tool to reach out to the community. The SCTE might have small fixable flaws, but the good outweigh these flaws.

Ryan, do you happen to have a new setup sheet? The Feb 2012 one seems so long ago. Have you had success with changing the front shock end locations or any luck with 22 2-hole pistons? Do you still run full droop + 2 turns?
I do use 22 2 hole pistons today. I use the #55 pistons with 2 holes glued shut. This works great for indoors. I am still back and forth for outdoors though witht he 4 hole setup. I use 32 in front and 30 in the rear with those pistons all around. I only run 1 turn out in the rear now and the ride height at 26 in the rear. The rest is the same.

Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
There is a fix for the stock orings and I've said it multiple times but it does get old trying to help out and then someone comes right behind you and says it's not needed. Makes some people want to keep that kind of thing to themselves and friends that have the truck. If anyone wants to know the fix please pm me.
I certainly wasnt trying to say it wasnt needed. I was saying I choose not to use different o-rings as I need to be able to give my setup to others and the second you change the o-rings, you have to change the rest of the setup, or at least thats what we have found. Thanks for putting it out there.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:37 AM
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The stock o-rings seem to work fine in the shocks for me. I just wish they were available separately from the shock rebuild kit. The shock rebuild kit includes:

Bladders - don't need them I use the new outside the cap o rings
Pistons - don't need them
Bushings - got more than I need

The only other good thing in there are the little washers for under the piston. Always good to have those.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:38 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I do run 32.5/30 and keep playing around with different pistons, I just can't find my mojo (but I am no where in the same skill bracket).

I haven't tried 27/26 ride height though, I keep leveling it out.

Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I do use 22 2 hole pistons today. I use the #55 pistons with 2 holes glued shut. This works great for indoors. I am still back and forth for outdoors though witht he 4 hole setup. I use 32 in front and 30 in the rear with those pistons all around. I only run 1 turn out in the rear now and the ride height at 26 in the rear. The rest is the same.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:23 AM
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I picked up a lightly used truck with leaky diffs. As a general rule it is best to replace the diffs to seal them up? Should I get a complete diff or just the cases? Or just try the ones I have first? I did notice the outdrive on the center diff is loose/wobbles.

Also, one more time on this question. Are most people running the rubber isolators on the steering servo?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:28 AM
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Hacker I wasn't referring to you. You are really helpful on this thread and we all appreciate it.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:29 AM
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I would just get new diff cases as the old ones are soaked in diff oil and whatever you use will have trouble bonding to the plastic case .....
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
I picked up a lightly used truck with leaky diffs. As a general rule it is best to replace the diffs to seal them up? Should I get a complete diff or just the cases? Or just try the ones I have first? I did notice the outdrive on the center diff is loose/wobbles.

Also, one more time on this question. Are most people running the rubber isolators on the steering servo?
I would pick up a new center diff case along with the Losi HD center outdrives. Then follow the instuctions on here about gluing the inserts into place.

The rubber isolators are good to use in any vehicle. Some use them some don't. I guess it's just personal preference. But they are in there for a reason. I try to use them if I have them.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:39 AM
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2012 Grinch Grand Prix Amarillo Tx Losi SCTE 1/8 Buggy Shocks HobbyWing ESC & Motor AKA CityBlocks Avid Wheels RadioPost Truck was on a rail! Had a lot of top 3s and more 2nds then I could count this year with this truck and had wins in Buggy & Truggy races but this was my first win In 4x4 Sc so I figured I would share lol

Last edited by sbrewer; 11-19-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
2012 Grinch Grand Prix Amarillo Tx

Congrats!
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:47 AM
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I agree...........the Hobbywing systems are great! and I dont have to use an external bec anymore.

Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
Super happy with the Hobbywing Sct Pro and 4000kv combo!
Guys that have their Tekin crap out were surprised at the performance.
Originally Posted by Haha101 View Post
i am on a budget are there any other comparable speed controlers? how are the castles? i can get those pretty cheap
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
2012 Grinch Grand Prix Amarillo Tx Losi SCTE 1/8 Buggy Shocks HobbyWing ESC & Motor Truck was on a rail!
I see your running the 8ight shocks. How do you like them and what was the major advantage to running them? Tunability, durability?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
I see your running the 8ight shocks. How do you like them and what was the major advantage to running them? Tunability, durability?
Lol its like driving a pillow on rails. Turns on a dime, soaks up anything on the track, 100% improvment over stock.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
Lol its like driving a pillow on rails. Turns on a dime, soaks up anything on the track, 100% improvment over stock.
What parts would I need to do the 8ight shock conversion on my truck?

Also what pistons and wt oil are you using? And lastly how much does your truck weigh rtr?

Thanks,
Matt
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