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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-08-2012, 12:04 PM
  #40906  
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Originally Posted by JRL 13 View Post
remove insert and apply a thin bead of RTV/liquid gasket under the shoulder of the insert. Press it in and wipe away the excess RTV/gasket maker.

Ive been using black RTV and have had no leaks since.
Got it, thanks!
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:13 PM
  #40907  
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Originally Posted by rcus3r View Post
Question about the diff inserts. I have been gluing my inserts with good luck. Done it twice to all 3 diffs with not a drop leaking out.

Has anyone tried packing the insert with grease instead of gluing them? I want to try something different. Don't want to commit to gluing them. I'd like to have the ability to replace the inserts if I have to.

Don't make me be the first one to do this...

Thanks.
I loaded my diffs with Kyosho Diff Gear Grease without sealing the diff inserts and it is slowly working it's way out of all three diffs. But it will take months of race nights before the diffs are empty as it does not "flow" like the silicone diff oils. You can mix from among the available different weights offered to get the exact weight you want to run. For example if you mix equal parts of 3000 and 5000 you end up with 4000. Or, mix equal parts of 5000 and 10000 and you will have 7500.

I ordered mine from kenonhobby.com. Make sure you search for Kyosho Diff Gear Grease or you will find the products kyosho makes for ball diffs.

Don
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mysupratoy94 View Post
Where exactly are you applying liquid gasget? Is it on that thing groove around the insert?


Look at this picture. You see two inserts to the left side. These pop out of the diff case and the cap. You want to seal these into the diff case and cap with RTV. If you take the diffs apart you will find these just press out without much effort and it has been found these are the main leak path for these diffs. This simple "repair" fixes most leaky diffs and is pretty easy to do.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dday View Post
I loaded my diffs with Kyosho Diff Gear Grease without sealing the diff inserts and it is slowly working it's way out of all three diffs. But it will take months of race nights before the diffs are empty as it does not "flow" like the silicone diff oils. You can mix from among the available different weights offered to get the exact weight you want to run. For example if you mix equal parts of 3000 and 5000 you end up with 4000. Or, mix equal parts of 5000 and 10000 and you will have 7500.

I ordered mine from kenonhobby.com. Make sure you search for Kyosho Diff Gear Grease or you will find the products kyosho makes for ball diffs.

Don
Interesting. So, sounds like what I was thinking will probably not work - use grease to seat the inserts, and use oil to fill. The oil will eventually make its way out, especially after it mixes with the grease and thins it out.

Well, back to gluing. I have always used CA glue. I will try the RTV. Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:43 PM
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dura bond gold weld. mix together press inserts in glue around edges let stand for a day build with grease on grove on hardened or stock out drives. good for 6 months
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:36 PM
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Im new to RCTech and new to rc racing. I absolutely love the sport, my wallet doesnt...

I was trying to get a little help with my set up. I have searched threads and have and ideas for my west texas driving conditions. I am racing on home made, back yard dusty tracks. Its a very fine dirt, rooster tails and all. When i search threads, i get recommendations but never explanations....

what diff fluids should i run?
should my chassis be level?
it feel like my car has a hard time turning, Where should i start to get my car to turn more?
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:54 PM
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I run the same thing, outdoor dusty no traction and can whip it around corners with throttle but turning aweful. Then race indoor tight high bite and can't turn at all.
Was directed to Ryan dunford setup and way better. Can turn really well but occasionally need to snap the brake or rotate by throttle but very drivable.
1st I really worked in the camber -1 or .5 degree. Toe out and my turning radius end points
Then changed diff fluids 5/5/3
Bought sway bar kit 1.8 up front 2 n back
And duplicated Dunford setup excepts for shock internals which I have yet to do.
And I can still lay front shocks down or tune with sway bars if I want more turning.

Anyone have the link for the Dunford setup - I believe it was difficult to find
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:56 PM
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And also download "RC Cheat Sheets" app for your phone - very good setup quick reference
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I run the same thing, outdoor dusty no traction and can whip it around corners with throttle but turning aweful. Then race indoor tight high bite and can't turn at all.
Was directed to Ryan dunford setup and way better. Can turn really well but occasionally need to snap the brake or rotate by throttle but very drivable.
1st I really worked in the camber -1 or .5 degree. Toe out and my turning radius end points
Then changed diff fluids 5/5/3
Bought sway bar kit 1.8 up front 2 n back
And duplicated Dunford setup excepts for shock internals which I have yet to do.
And I can still lay front shocks down or tune with sway bars if I want more turning.

Anyone have the link for the Dunford setup - I believe it was difficult to find
Here
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...ford-02_12.pdf

All the losi setups are here.
http://www.losi.com/Products/Support...rodID=LOSB0127

or here
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...siTENSCTE.html
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:42 AM
  #40915  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post


Look at this picture. You see two inserts to the left side. These pop out of the diff case and the cap. You want to seal these into the diff case and cap with RTV. If you take the diffs apart you will find these just press out without much effort and it has been found these are the main leak path for these diffs. This simple "repair" fixes most leaky diffs and is pretty easy to do.
I havent been succesfull with RTV only. My diffs sometimes got notchy when doing this. Propably because too much sealant. Could you please elaborate your technique.
Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
I havent been succesfull with RTV only. My diffs sometimes got notchy when doing this. Propably because too much sealant. Could you please elaborate your technique.
Thanks!
If you glue the cases and then put the inserts in. That's your problem. glue it with the inserts already installed. GLUING the parts and trying to press the inserts in will leave you with a gasket amount of glue on the inserts. all it takes is a drop and you have notchy gears... you can not compress glue. as much as all of you think you can you cant. another thing to remember is heat expands,... so if you fill your diffs in the garage and its 65 degrees and then go race.,... your diffs heat up... stuff expands. if that happens your diffs leaks. you don't have to fill it so when you putting it together its to the top and leaking out when you screw it together..you don't have to fill it to the max.. leave room for expansion. Hope this helps
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
I havent been succesfull with RTV only. My diffs sometimes got notchy when doing this. Propably because too much sealant. Could you please elaborate your technique.
Thanks!
I just put a bead inside the diff case or cap bore and then press in the insert from the inside and carefully wipe off the excess making sure there is a uniform bead around the entire edge. I use some gray stuff so it is easy to see you got it all around. Doing it this way by applying it to the case or cap ensures it does not squeeze inside the diff area.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post


Look at this picture. You see two inserts to the left side. These pop out of the diff case and the cap. You want to seal these into the diff case and cap with RTV. If you take the diffs apart you will find these just press out without much effort and it has been found these are the main leak path for these diffs. This simple "repair" fixes most leaky diffs and is pretty easy to do.
Thank you!
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:15 PM
  #40919  
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I'm running on carpet and I'm using the stiff gold springs in front, with the shock-collars in the upmost position the front-arms are parallel to the ground. I'd like to have the truck a bit lower even. I learned that to modify ride-height you change the shock-collar height, but since they can't go any higher - what's the appropriate way to lower the ride-height even more ?
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
I'm running on carpet and I'm using the stiff gold springs in front, with the shock-collars in the upmost position the front-arms are parallel to the ground. I'd like to have the truck a bit lower even. I learned that to modify ride-height you change the shock-collar height, but since they can't go any higher - what's the appropriate way to lower the ride-height even more ?
Cut springs of get shorter ones
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