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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-19-2012, 12:52 PM
  #40306  
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Make sure the little blocks are seated in the groove good, thats what seems to happen to most people with this issue.
Make sure they are down and in.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by arydstedt View Post
Im having an issue rebuilding my rear diff. When I put the inner gears together (with all parts) it runs smoothly. As soon as I put pressure, tighten four black screws, it seizes. The gears all look good, no wear. Parts seem to fit in correctly. Its as if there is some imaginary, missing shim or washer. Or as if in some crazy way, the screws are messing with the gears. Has anyone experienced this? Initially a bearing failed, so I had to rebuild. The wheels were turning though. Called Losi, they told me nothing I hadnt tried. It has the newer style planetary and sun gears (updates). Race on sunday.....
Have you glued the inserts? Don't use glue or rtv before getting the inserts in. Also look out for the square parts to sit. Push them down real good.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Interesting.
Originally Posted by drepus View Post
Grandturk, are you running the original diff grease or have you switched over to oil in your diffs? How often do you change the diff oil? I have found that each driver needs to pay attention to how much diff fluid there is left and what color it is when you do diff maintenance so we can judge how long we can drive them before they need attention. If we wait too long and run them till the diff fluid level goes way down then the internal diff gears/little aluminum blocks/cross pins etc will be running without proper lubrication and they will wear out must faster.
Good points. No these were not original pins they were Losi replacements installed in march-April. Diffs were still full of oil and had been rebuilt 1-2 times since. Truck is run 1-2 races per week. I should change oil more often, sure.

I should also mention it was only 1 of 6 pins that was worn. Additionlly 2 of the small bevel gears was worn as well (old style - or "classic" gears). No issues rellacing them on my side, just responding to Caspers post that he hadn't seen the pins wear.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:55 PM
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If you are positive the little blocks are seating properly and you still have a bind, you can rebuild without the tiny shims on the cross pins. This allows the gears to sit just a touch farther out and down on the sun gears. I assembled a diff 3 times using brand new parts for everything and finally just removed the shims and it was perfect. Got this tip from a video Adam Drake posted.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:36 PM
  #40310  
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Originally Posted by blade329 View Post
Just warming it up a little should do it. Yeah, heat it up too much and you will have black soup.
Thanks, will try it Sunday.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Good idea! And maybe complete diff kits and HA shock kits with bleeder caps.


+1
I think everybody wants a hopped up TLR SCTE kit.



If you mean the adjustable hinge pin holders I have only tried the rear so far but on a smooth, high bite track they're awesome! The tolerances are not always right. I installed them with the 0.5 inserts, and had to force them into the slots, now I can't get them out to try 1's. Does anyone have a non-destructive method to remove the inserts?
still don't understand what tuning blocks do.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Resqnu View Post
Would like some more input on these motors
link didnt work for me but i love my hobbywing stuff i have the 4700kv 3656sd motor and its a monster and the SCT pro is a great esc with the only drawback for me is that there is no Current Limit like the RX8 so i have to dial it down on my remote for our small tight technical track but im happy with both HW items...the 4 poles are a "torquey" motor if thats even a word, lol and also lighter than 2 poles as seen here
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-hw-sct-motors.jpg  
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Thanks Drepus, tried to do that, but these inserts are too tight; the 1/16" wrench pierced through the insert.
If heating it up doesnt work you can always rock them out with a suspension pin.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I almost always run orange in the rear.

Fronts I will switch between blue and black depending on the diff setup I am running and the track layout.

If running a milled chassis I would go with a longer rear brace for both of those tracks.
Under what conditions are you switching front springs?
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:33 AM
  #40315  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
still don't understand what tuning blocks do.
Tuning block allow you to change the antisquat and toe in on the rear,and on the front you can change the kickup.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:26 AM
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Hello all. Looking for input. I will be running a high bite track with the TLR lightened chassis. Which rear brace should I run? I have heard longer for high bite tracks with no serious jumps. Was looking to go with a AE 8.2 rear brace but just looking for everyone's opinion.
Thanks
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wildracr29 View Post
Hello all. Looking for input. I will be running a high bite track with the TLR lightened chassis. Which rear brace should I run? I have heard longer for high bite tracks with no serious jumps. Was looking to go with a AE 8.2 rear brace but just looking for everyone's opinion.
Thanks
from what I have found.

Long brace stiff. makes car loose
short metal less
plastic even less
same in front\metal stiffens it up
it all depends on what you like and how you drive. Testing is key. easy to swap on track. do 5 laps, switch out, test take notes. some braces on different tracks can help and then again ...
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by arydstedt View Post
Im having an issue rebuilding my rear diff. When I put the inner gears together (with all parts) it runs smoothly. As soon as I put pressure, tighten four black screws, it seizes. The gears all look good, no wear. Parts seem to fit in correctly. Its as if there is some imaginary, missing shim or washer. Or as if in some crazy way, the screws are messing with the gears. Has anyone experienced this? Initially a bearing failed, so I had to rebuild. The wheels were turning though. Called Losi, they told me nothing I hadnt tried. It has the newer style planetary and sun gears (updates). Race on sunday.....
IF !!!! you glued the inserts, then that's your problem. PUT INSERTS IN then run glue around edge. grease shaft and install. PEOPLE think that glue has no thickness. TWO gaskets will fix that problem. gluing..... then pressing in inserts will raise gears and cause look up putting screws in.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:47 AM
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Will give it a try Chucko. Thanks
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxntwv View Post
Tuning block allow you to change the antisquat and toe in on the rear,and on the front you can change the kickup.
Thank you David I'll be ordering them.
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