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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-17-2012, 07:38 PM
  #40261  
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Originally Posted by copey70 View Post
The 2 hole pistons work awsome in my 22T, I love how it feels. Has anyone tried the MIP shock kit where you can set pack and rebound. They look pretty adjustable in all ways, more pack, less pack, more rebound, less rebound. At 30 bucks it's a little outside my price range of things to just try. Of course the MIP site says they are the best things since sliced bread. Anyone try them out ?


I have them and like them a lot, they take of bit of tinkering but once you figure it they work pretty good IMO.

The shocks now react up & down faster, I even had a few ppl ask me how I got my shocks to react so fast and when they saw it go over a washboard bumps ... I have found that the blue disc on top with(Blk racing springs)-F-30w (Orange)-R-27.5w oil with the TLR bleeder caps no rebound

Last edited by TurboTim; 10-17-2012 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:17 PM
  #40262  
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I was taking my diffs apart today and my rear diff has 1 stripped screw. Did they fix that issue or still have screws stripping out?
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:26 PM
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I just wanted to take a minute to post my personal praise of the SCTE. I bought mine last Christmas ARTR, cherry picked electronics, bought the TLR carbon fiber towers, HD outdrives F/C/R, spring kits, TLR bleeder caps, piston pack, RC8 chassis brace, and sway bars. Thats it, no chassis, no TLR Tuning kit, just a few pieces of it. I have been racing it every week, at least once per week, large outdoor, med indoor, been through KBRL, Cactus Classic, so on and so on. In that time I have only broken: 2 rear bumpers, 1 front bumper, 1 front arm just at the lower shock holes, 1 rear upper shock bolt bent, and front diff case stripped 1 screw hole, fr center driveshaft pin broke, wore out fr center drive CV. Thats it! this truck has been incredibly solid. I dont bash and smash though either. I go big, but I downside unless its slower also. I have seen a bunch of guys at my local track go upgrade crazy and drop a grand on top of what I've done. What a waste. This sc is the real deal straight out of the box. Just get the few items I mentioned and run it hard. I glass beaded my stock chassis today because it looked like crap but straight as an arrow, then I painted and cleared it. Its still ready to roll and solid as ever. And dont say that I dont run it hard. I'm always top 2 locally. The guys who tear up non-maintenance items are just bashing more than they would care to admit.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:37 AM
  #40264  
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Originally Posted by copey70 View Post
The 2 hole pistons work awsome in my 22T, I love how it feels. Has anyone tried the MIP shock kit where you can set pack and rebound. They look pretty adjustable in all ways, more pack, less pack, more rebound, less rebound. At 30 bucks it's a little outside my price range of things to just try. Of course the MIP site says they are the best things since sliced bread. Anyone try them out ?
I have them on my MIP Pro4mance SCTE, and they work awesome. Set them up like TurboTim sugests, with the Bypass in rebound (valves on top of the piston). I would recomend a little heavier on the oil though myself. I use 50 wt. AE in front, and 45 wt. AE in the rear with the MIP yellow spring in front and the stock, black, front Losi spring in the rear. Keep in mind that my car is over 1/2 lb lighter than the stock chassis, so you may need a little heavier springs. Hope that helps you out.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:54 AM
  #40265  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Fill my shocks completely up to the top, then press the shaft on my table to have no rebound. While it's fully compressed on the table, i then tighten the cap on there. Worked fine for both rears and one front. Just no matter what i do, the stubborn front left shock won't stay "dead".
Yeah, its a little tough bleeding the shocks all the same way without bleeder holes in the caps. What I do is, with the shaft extended, I top off the oil, then screw the cap w/o-ring on 1 turn. Then I turn the shock untill its almost parallel to the table, and as Im pushing the shaft in, I slowly tighten the cap, but, I make sure the shaft is botomed before the cap seals. If after that, you realize theres still rebound, push firmly on the shaft as you unscrew the cap again untill you get oil seapage and the shaft botoms out, then retighten the cap, all the while having your shock held almost parallel to the floor or table. That will definitely bleed your shocks out, or, even easier is to get the bleedable shock caps. Just make sure you push the shock shaft all the way in before you put the bleeder screw in. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:16 AM
  #40266  
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Originally Posted by lsbass View Post
The diff itself didnt feel notchy at all really, it was once I put the diff in the case that I noticed it. Ive got 3 tubes of great grease on order so lets hope it takes care of that.

Ive only broken in the diffs using the method in the manual. Is there a better way?
Do yourself a favor and order 5000, 7000, & 3000 wt. diff oil (AE preferred, but not crucial). 5k in the front, 7k in the center, and 3k in the rear. You wont be sorry. When filling them, bring the oil level ONLY to the top of the spider gear (small gear) shaft. To seal the diffs good, take a printer cartridge ink refill kit syringe, or a dyabetic insulin syringe and pull some ca into it, then you can put a tiny bead around the base of your insert on the diff case and then push the insert in place. Then wipe off the excess ca from the diff case. I replaced my o-rings with ones I got in a Harbor Freight o-ring kit. It really comes in handy for several things. Ie: shock caps (instead of cutting your bladders up) and all 3 diffs. Make sure you have all your shims installed in the right places, and coat your diff case gasket with a little grease (doesn't matter what kind), snug the screws down and you're set. Don't worry about it feeling a little notchy, this is normal. After installing the diff back into the final drive case, apply a lite grease (lithium, etc.) to the gear mounted on the diff and the CVD shaft gear. Then close it all up. To break your diffs in, hold your truck up on 1 side, letting both wheels on the other side stay on the ground and give it light throtle for 30 sec. Then switch. Then hold the fronts off the ground, then the rears. 30 sec. each. You're done. Hope this helps.

Last edited by f5_tornado; 10-18-2012 at 05:27 AM. Reason: Forgot 1 thing
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by f5_tornado View Post
Yeah, its a little tough bleeding the shocks all the same way without bleeder holes in the caps. What I do is, with the shaft extended, I top off the oil, then screw the cap w/o-ring on 1 turn. Then I turn the shock untill its almost parallel to the table, and as Im pushing the shaft in, I slowly tighten the cap, but, I make sure the shaft is botomed before the cap seals. If after that, you realize theres still rebound, push firmly on the shaft as you unscrew the cap again untill you get oil seapage and the shaft botoms out, then retighten the cap, all the while having your shock held almost parallel to the floor or table. That will definitely bleed your shocks out, or, even easier is to get the bleedable shock caps. Just make sure you push the shock shaft all the way in before you put the bleeder screw in. Hope this helps.

Already decided to get the bleeder caps.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:36 AM
  #40268  
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Here's my truck , she's alive. I can't wait to try it out.

Didn't build it with MIP bypass yet, want to try out stock shocks first.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-losi.jpg   Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-losi-1.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:59 AM
  #40269  
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
Check your servo saver as it might be worn or dirty and sticking after you bump into something. It needs to be able to "open up" when the front wheels contact something hard but it should then recenter all on its own right away.
Another posibility is if your servo arm is skipping on the servo. Check the inside of the servo arm splines for wear. Many of us use a losi aluminum steering arm.
servo saver tube is the new HA one and just bought it and this was mainly the first runs with it...I think i need to check the insert on top of the servo that connects to the steering link. Looked at it but the teeth are so small that could be an issue even tho it looks good, Not sure what its called but it came on my 810 since thats what this was originally but its a creamy white color and goes under the horn and sits on the servo gear
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:09 AM
  #40270  
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
Sliced bread is wayyyy overated.
lol.... that's funny right there
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:03 PM
  #40271  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Here's my truck , she's alive. I can't wait to try it out.

Didn't build it with MIP bypass yet, want to try out stock shocks first.
Put that on the track, Pull the trigger and be ready to smile big time! Even without the bypass done you'll still be blown away compared to brand AE.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by f5_tornado View Post
I have them on my MIP Pro4mance SCTE, and they work awesome. Set them up like TurboTim sugests, with the Bypass in rebound (valves on top of the piston). I would recomend a little heavier on the oil though myself. I use 50 wt. AE in front, and 45 wt. AE in the rear with the MIP yellow spring in front and the stock, black, front Losi spring in the rear. Keep in mind that my car is over 1/2 lb lighter than the stock chassis, so you may need a little heavier springs. Hope that helps you out.

I tried a higher weight of shock oil but I didn't like the way it handled, mine is pretty light tho also 5.8lbs with stock chassis
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:02 PM
  #40273  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Put the cap on first loosely, then push the shaft in- excess oil bleeds out. Then tighten the cap. You may need to bleed again to set rebound.

Fastest way to do ths is with the bleeder caps with screws.
Or drilling a 1mm hole just below center is alao an option.
Pump and bleed twice to get the shocks stay dead.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:04 PM
  #40274  
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Originally Posted by copey70 View Post
The 2 hole pistons work awsome in my 22T, I love how it feels. Has anyone tried the MIP shock kit where you can set pack and rebound. They look pretty adjustable in all ways, more pack, less pack, more rebound, less rebound. At 30 bucks it's a little outside my price range of things to just try. Of course the MIP site says they are the best things since sliced bread. Anyone try them out ?
Thay are good but the edges of the pistons get grinded down after a season of driving so don't work as good after that.

Last edited by nanoverse; 10-18-2012 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:18 PM
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Just curious to hear everyones experience with the tlr tuning kit with chassis. Any improvements?
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