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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-26-2012, 04:22 PM
  #39601  
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anyone tried the Kingheadz chassis yet? Looks clever with the slightly angled centerdiff.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I saw somebody a few pages back ask about the TLR SCTE (nitro).

The LHS had one on the shelf for a while, so somebody bought it just to try out and have some fun with. We took it out on the 8th scale track along with normal SCTE's (pro4 4600) and some 8th scales on 4s and a nitro 8th scale buggy.

The nitro SCTE was faster and had more get up and go than just about everything else (and it hadn't been broken in yet for the motor). The remote start was awesomely convenient after it flipped over as short courses tend to do after a lot of 8th scale style jumping with gusts of wind.

What wasn't great was that things quickly got loose and shifted around, the spur gear got chewed up, and the glow plug only lasted about a tank and a half. It was a ton of fun though and everybody loved it while it worked, and the repairs wouldn't be horrible to do. It should REALLY have a metal spur though, especially with it being exposed on the bottom of the chassis like a typical 8th scale nitro.
First off how much tuning did you do to it cuz usually if your on the BREAK IN TUNE the plug isnt gonna last long? And like everyone knows most RTR's that come with tires suck, they arent that great and the SCTE def doesnt have that great of a stock tire but like i said, with that kinda power in this truck it will get squirrelly and being box stock and still grease in the diffs and diffs not tuned with silicone. And with the gears being open to the enviroment plastic is a wise choice so it chews up that gear and not something worse but it could have also taken a bad hit and bent the chassis also causing the gear mesh get messed up BUT you were on a 8th scale track and they usually have some big jumps so you can only imagine what happened to the truck especially since it was the first time the guy had prolly drove the truck

Originally Posted by DJLeonardo View Post
anyone tried the Kingheadz chassis yet? Looks clever with the slightly angled centerdiff.
I have it just becuz of that reason to help reduce wear and also have the KH dual bearing center diff mount and would like to get the dual bearing motor mount soon also as the diff mount made quite a bit of diff in reducing the slop in the outdrive
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
The Losi XX/XXX4 are belted. Is this something different, something new?
.Warning off topic a bit! 4x4 buggy. The WORD (word) is...That yes, it was a new prototype with a belt,all new deal, but a belt!!!!! for???Old times sake?Dont Know? It would have to be a sick design for a belt or it will never come out!..Not 1st hand info here, but this comes from someone who is there alot when the team takes the track>Or any body for that matter>>So a good source for me at least!LOL..It was not in plain sight and they were dremiling on it and making changes ,so sounds prototype stuff for sure.It would sure light up the LOSI & A-E Deal heaps and be good for the hobby as a whole!!Any way back to the SCTE talkMy truck been running damn good!Two weeks ago I ran a indoor track that has been built here and pulled 2nd place between two sponsored guys !Privateer sandwich!!
I usually run a small outdoor track so this was very fun!!!Ran same set up too!!
Cheers!
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
Hey guys I have been staring at my truck for 2 months now because I had a bad rx8. I was looking it over now that I'm getting my new rx8 on Friday and I noticed that the rear drive shaft and pinion inside of the diff has a bunch of slop... So I took the diff apart because I thought it would be a problem with such a loose mesh between the ring and pinion gear.

The parts explosion says it doesn't need any shims when brand new so what's the verdict? Is this normal?

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM
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I have slop there also,and steering.from what I understand this slop is no big deal...if you replace this stuff it will be back in a couple races..
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
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The rear pinion should not have much play in it. Check the bearings to make sure you did not blow one. Some shim the diff I have yet to but you need to keep an eye on the rear pinion bearings. They will go out on occation.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:19 PM
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you guys suck, lol! I wish we had an indoor track we could run at...We have 2 outdoor tracks but are about 30 mins away and i work til 5 and the day i dont work, they arent open and i work til 5pm so it would make for a REAL LATE night. We have a seasonal indoor track that i think will be opening this week so hopefully they keep it open but i believe they are goin over this years rules, swap meet, and i think setting up the track and possibly running but pry wont make it
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:19 PM
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I haven't driven it yet so the bearing Isn't blown out
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:35 PM
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Default MIP Pro4mance Wins at Jconcepts Clash 2012

Hey Guys another update on the Pro4mance package. I ended up taking home the win in both Pro4 and Pro2 stock at the Jconcepts clash. Track was awesome and the trucks were untouchable to say the least. I have posted the setup on http://realshocks.com/Setups.html. There are two new setups one for loamy low traction conditions and one for High bite Black Groove (rubber being laid down) conditions.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...6/IMG_1986.JPG
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:45 PM
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i hope its a new shaft driven 1/10 4wd buggy thats as good as it's bigger brother...and real diffs in a true kit form pls
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:57 PM
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I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.
Get new bodies and pistons. They are probably worn too.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
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Make sure you have the pinion and bearing all the way in the housing, push the shaft and yoke on holding the pinion in so you don't push it back into the housing than tighten. than I run one shim on the case to push the ring into the pinion. The best way I can tell you how to set back lash to set it as you would set a 48 pitch spur and pinion. You don't want to much back lash. Hope this helps
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Get new bodies and pistons. They are probably worn too.
I'm thinking about that on the bodys but the pistons are new there the MIP ones.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:28 AM
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Pulling car apart now to replace diff grease with oil and I was shocked to find the pinion and crown gear in the rear diff is rusted. Huh? How did that happen? Is that fairly common?

I was also kind of shocked by the amount of rust on the driveshafts, figured these would be stainless or at least wouldn't corrode but that definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

Lastly my center diff is notchy, far more so than the rear or the front. When I pulled it out yesterday it was really bad which is why I figured I would pull all the diffs down and check them while filling them with fluid while I was at it. Rebuilt the center diff with 5k oil and it's still notchy, better than before but I can definitely feel each tooth as it turns around. Rear diff before getting into it was pretty smooth, why this center one is so notchy is beyond me....
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