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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM
  #39601  
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I have slop there also,and steering.from what I understand this slop is no big deal...if you replace this stuff it will be back in a couple races..
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4
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The rear pinion should not have much play in it. Check the bearings to make sure you did not blow one. Some shim the diff I have yet to but you need to keep an eye on the rear pinion bearings. They will go out on occation.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:19 PM
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you guys suck, lol! I wish we had an indoor track we could run at...We have 2 outdoor tracks but are about 30 mins away and i work til 5 and the day i dont work, they arent open and i work til 5pm so it would make for a REAL LATE night. We have a seasonal indoor track that i think will be opening this week so hopefully they keep it open but i believe they are goin over this years rules, swap meet, and i think setting up the track and possibly running but pry wont make it
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:19 PM
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I haven't driven it yet so the bearing Isn't blown out
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:35 PM
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Default MIP Pro4mance Wins at Jconcepts Clash 2012

Hey Guys another update on the Pro4mance package. I ended up taking home the win in both Pro4 and Pro2 stock at the Jconcepts clash. Track was awesome and the trucks were untouchable to say the least. I have posted the setup on http://realshocks.com/Setups.html. There are two new setups one for loamy low traction conditions and one for High bite Black Groove (rubber being laid down) conditions.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...6/IMG_1986.JPG
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:45 PM
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i hope its a new shaft driven 1/10 4wd buggy thats as good as it's bigger brother...and real diffs in a true kit form pls
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:57 PM
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I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC
I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.
Get new bodies and pistons. They are probably worn too.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4
Anyone? I know posts can be easily over looked on this busy thread
Make sure you have the pinion and bearing all the way in the housing, push the shaft and yoke on holding the pinion in so you don't push it back into the housing than tighten. than I run one shim on the case to push the ring into the pinion. The best way I can tell you how to set back lash to set it as you would set a 48 pitch spur and pinion. You don't want to much back lash. Hope this helps
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Get new bodies and pistons. They are probably worn too.
I'm thinking about that on the bodys but the pistons are new there the MIP ones.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:28 AM
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Pulling car apart now to replace diff grease with oil and I was shocked to find the pinion and crown gear in the rear diff is rusted. Huh? How did that happen? Is that fairly common?

I was also kind of shocked by the amount of rust on the driveshafts, figured these would be stainless or at least wouldn't corrode but that definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

Lastly my center diff is notchy, far more so than the rear or the front. When I pulled it out yesterday it was really bad which is why I figured I would pull all the diffs down and check them while filling them with fluid while I was at it. Rebuilt the center diff with 5k oil and it's still notchy, better than before but I can definitely feel each tooth as it turns around. Rear diff before getting into it was pretty smooth, why this center one is so notchy is beyond me....
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
.Warning off topic a bit! 4x4 buggy. The WORD (word) is...That yes, it was a new prototype with a belt,all new deal, but a belt!!!!! for???Old times sake?Dont Know? It would have to be a sick design for a belt or it will never come out!..Not 1st hand info here, but this comes from someone who is there alot when the team takes the track>Or any body for that matter>>So a good source for me at least!LOL..It was not in plain sight and they were dremiling on it and making changes ,so sounds prototype stuff for sure.It would sure light up the LOSI & A-E Deal heaps and be good for the hobby as a whole!!Any way back to the SCTE talkMy truck been running damn good!Two weeks ago I ran a indoor track that has been built here and pulled 2nd place between two sponsored guys !Privateer sandwich!!
I usually run a small outdoor track so this was very fun!!!Ran same set up too!!
Cheers!
Hey Riverdale, sounds like you're doing well. Have you been running at Redland's or IERC? I've been wanting to go check them out just out of curiosity. My buddy Rory's been going out to IERC quite a bit since he lives about 15 min from there and he says it's a lot of fun. My SCTE is down for an overhaul and installation of the MIP proformance package. So I've been running ebuggy lately. This weekend's going to be my maiden voyage on my TLR 22sct. I've been running my RCRD 22sct conversion since it came out about 4 months ago, but now it's time to run the real thing!
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Pulling car apart now to replace diff grease with oil and I was shocked to find the pinion and crown gear in the rear diff is rusted. Huh? How did that happen? Is that fairly common?

I was also kind of shocked by the amount of rust on the driveshafts, figured these would be stainless or at least wouldn't corrode but that definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

Lastly my center diff is notchy, far more so than the rear or the front. When I pulled it out yesterday it was really bad which is why I figured I would pull all the diffs down and check them while filling them with fluid while I was at it. Rebuilt the center diff with 5k oil and it's still notchy, better than before but I can definitely feel each tooth as it turns around. Rear diff before getting into it was pretty smooth, why this center one is so notchy is beyond me....
I had the same problem with rust. I think its the grease. buy a new diff case sounds like you have the one that came off a thousand off and thats all it takes to make em notchy. ALSO replace bearings. if rust is there bearings are good for a few runs but will fail. Write horizon customer service let them know they might send you new.... if you glued the inserts that could be your problem 1 little drop of glue will do that. try tapping the final gear down and see if that helps. if not a new case will help or try two gaskets. then break in. I personally don't like notchy either. smooth is good. good luck
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Pulling car apart now to replace diff grease with oil and I was shocked to find the pinion and crown gear in the rear diff is rusted. Huh? How did that happen? Is that fairly common?

I was also kind of shocked by the amount of rust on the driveshafts, figured these would be stainless or at least wouldn't corrode but that definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

Lastly my center diff is notchy, far more so than the rear or the front. When I pulled it out yesterday it was really bad which is why I figured I would pull all the diffs down and check them while filling them with fluid while I was at it. Rebuilt the center diff with 5k oil and it's still notchy, better than before but I can definitely feel each tooth as it turns around. Rear diff before getting into it was pretty smooth, why this center one is so notchy is beyond me....
How old is the truck? Gears should have had grease on them which should have helped with corrosion. If you run in a wet environment a lot this will happen over time and maintaince will help.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:13 AM
  #39615  
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Originally Posted by THE DOC
I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.
There is always some "bypass" designed into any RC shock setup. This is the gap or area around the piston and between that and the shock body. The hard anodized shocks hold up much much better than the stock shock bodies. You should expect some bypass still even in brand new shocks.
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