DJLeonardo

anyone tried the Kingheadz chassis yet? Looks clever with the slightly angled centerdiff.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

First off how much tuning did you do to it cuz usually if your on the BREAK IN TUNE the plug isnt gonna last long? And like everyone knows most RTR's that come with tires suck, they arent that great and the SCTE def doesnt have that great of a stock tire but like i said, with that kinda power in this truck it will get squirrelly and being box stock and still grease in the diffs and diffs not tuned with silicone. And with the gears being open to the enviroment plastic is a wise choice so it chews up that gear and not something worse but it could have also taken a bad hit and bent the chassis also causing the gear mesh get messed up BUT you were on a 8th scale track and they usually have some big jumps so you can only imagine what happened to the truck especially since it was the first time the guy had prolly drove the truck

I have it just becuz of that reason to help reduce wear and also have the KH dual bearing center diff mount and would like to get the dual bearing motor mount soon also as the diff mount made quite a bit of diff in reducing the slop in the outdrive

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

.Warning off topic a bit! 4x4 buggy. The WORD (word) is...That yes, it was a new prototype with a belt,all new deal, but a belt!!!!! for???Old times sake?Dont Know? It would have to be a sick design for a belt or it will never come out!..Not 1st hand info here, but this comes from someone who is there alot when the team takes the track>Or any body for that matter>>So a good source for me at least!LOL..It was not in plain sight and they were dremiling on it and making changes ,so sounds prototype stuff for sure.It would sure light up the LOSI & A-E Deal heaps and be good for the hobby as a whole!!Any way back to the SCTE talkMy truck been running damn good!Two weeks ago I ran a indoor track that has been built here and pulled 2nd place between two sponsored guys !Privateer sandwich!!
I usually run a small outdoor track so this was very fun!!!Ran same set up too!!
Cheers!

D-A-N-4-4

iTrader: (25)

Anyone? I know posts can be easily over looked on this busy thread

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

I have slop there also,and steering.from what I understand this slop is no big deal...if you replace this stuff it will be back in a couple races..

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The rear pinion should not have much play in it. Check the bearings to make sure you did not blow one. Some shim the diff I have yet to but you need to keep an eye on the rear pinion bearings. They will go out on occation.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

you guys suck, lol! I wish we had an indoor track we could run at...We have 2 outdoor tracks but are about 30 mins away and i work til 5 and the day i dont work, they arent open and i work til 5pm so it would make for a REAL LATE night. We have a seasonal indoor track that i think will be opening this week so hopefully they keep it open but i believe they are goin over this years rules, swap meet, and i think setting up the track and possibly running but pry wont make it

D-A-N-4-4

iTrader: (25)

I haven't driven it yet so the bearing Isn't blown out

MIP MATT

Hey Guys another update on the Pro4mance package. I ended up taking home the win in both Pro4 and Pro2 stock at the Jconcepts clash. Track was awesome and the trucks were untouchable to say the least. I have posted the setup on http://realshocks.com/Setups.html. There are two new setups one for loamy low traction conditions and one for High bite Black Groove (rubber being laid down) conditions.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...6/IMG_1986.JPG

streetsports

iTrader: (52)

i hope its a new shaft driven 1/10 4wd buggy thats as good as it's bigger brother...and real diffs in a true kit form pls

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

I've noticed that the anodizing is coming off the inside of the shocks and I'm on bare alum in spots. I,m getting a little to much play on the shaft when its all the way out (moves L/R) so I'm wondering if this is the problem. I don't know how much anodizing takes up but because of the bare alum I'm getting alot of oil contamination in the oil. Will new shock bodys take out some of the play? or should I just run them and change the fluid more often.

rcgod

iTrader: (32)

Get new bodies and pistons. They are probably worn too.

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

Make sure you have the pinion and bearing all the way in the housing, push the shaft and yoke on holding the pinion in so you don't push it back into the housing than tighten. than I run one shim on the case to push the ring into the pinion. The best way I can tell you how to set back lash to set it as you would set a 48 pitch spur and pinion. You don't want to much back lash. Hope this helps

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

I'm thinking about that on the bodys but the pistons are new there the MIP ones.

Suteki

iTrader: (8)

Pulling car apart now to replace diff grease with oil and I was shocked to find the pinion and crown gear in the rear diff is rusted. Huh? How did that happen? Is that fairly common?

I was also kind of shocked by the amount of rust on the driveshafts, figured these would be stainless or at least wouldn't corrode but that definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

Lastly my center diff is notchy, far more so than the rear or the front. When I pulled it out yesterday it was really bad which is why I figured I would pull all the diffs down and check them while filling them with fluid while I was at it. Rebuilt the center diff with 5k oil and it's still notchy, better than before but I can definitely feel each tooth as it turns around. Rear diff before getting into it was pretty smooth, why this center one is so notchy is beyond me....