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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-21-2012, 03:12 PM
  #39481  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
You'd be better off getting the full set, b/c the stock outdrives wont accept the tekno dpgbones. You need the tekno outdrives as well because they are larger than stock.
Thanks, but this is for a custom project, just wondering if the Tekno dogbones fit the Stock Losi Axles.
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:23 PM
  #39482  
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Well I'm thinking of getting out of the 4WD game and back into buggy, would should I ask for my SCTE:

Losi SCTE ARR
SNR Carbon Chassis
SNR Top Brace
TLR Carbon towers
TLR Shock Caps
HD Lightened outdrives on all diffs
New front drive shafts
SC411 4600Kv with maybe 3 runs on it
Toro 120amp ESC
New bearings through the entire truck with 3 runs on them
4 sets of wheels and tires
A few spares
etc etc
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:58 PM
  #39483  
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Originally Posted by sbrewer
15 is way to much. 13 is pretty good everywhere.
Agree'd but depending on the track size 13-14t is usally best for the 4600/4700kv motors BUT temp your ESC and motor to check and make sure all is good before doing some hardcore runs, speed runs create alot of heat also
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:02 PM
  #39484  
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dish wheels on an SC? no thanks. i like this better (22SCT wheels with white beadlock rings):

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Old 09-21-2012, 06:20 PM
  #39485  
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4x4 ROAR does not allow dish wheels but 2wd is ok.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:01 PM
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Here's my new scte with the freshly painted body!
I got a chance to drive it on my friend's backyard track. WOW this truck is amazing. It handles extremely well and feels super easy to drive. I do have a couple questions though. I'm running nanotech 2s 6000mah 65-130c batteries and I only got about 9 min of run time. Does that sound about right? A little shorter than I was hoping for but I guess there's not much I can do about that. I'm running a 13T pinion and motor temp was about 160, esc was about 110 (after running two packs.)
My other question is about the diffs. I know the diffs come stock with grease but the center diff is leaking grease. I've heard of this before but is it caused by faulty seals or something? I plan on replacing the grease with fluid but I don't want the diffs to leak.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by P6
ones 540 4 pole and the other 550 2 pole im hearing alot of people turning down 4 pole for racing 4 pole creates alot of torque and 4.5 needs higher rpms to hit its power band , just from what ive researched i could be wrong but this is what i kept hearing before i bought my motor
With a very lightened truck I had to throw in a Ballistic 550 4.5 while My pro-4 was down and I could feel the weight difference immediately .I did not like the feel of it! Probably cuz I just was not used to the xtra weight.The 4.5 rips tho as one of the fastest SCTE drivers round here kills with it!!(Jake Mcarvey)I have almost got him a few times ,key word being almost

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
dish wheels on an SC? no thanks. i like this better (22SCT wheels with white beadlock rings):

That looks sick Phreak!!
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:55 PM
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[QUOTE
Here's my new scte with the freshly painted body!
I got a chance to drive it on my friend's backyard track. WOW this truck is amazing. It handles extremely well and feels super easy to drive. I do have a couple questions though. I'm running nanotech 2s 6000mah 65-130c batteries and I only got about 9 min of run time. Does that sound about right? A little shorter than I was hoping for but I guess there's not much I can do about that. I'm running a 13T pinion and motor temp was about 160, esc was about 110 (after running two packs.)
My other question is about the diffs. I know the diffs come stock with grease but the center diff is leaking grease. I've heard of this before but is it caused by faulty seals or something? I plan on replacing the grease with fluid but I don't want the diffs to leak.[/QUOTE]...............Gotta remember this is a six pound + truck!
Running at 9- to ten minutes is gonna be the top out point for that set up!Maybe a lower kv motor and 3-s batts will give you longer runs with cooler running gear.For the diff ,rtv,jb weld or ca glue in the metal inserts that the outdrives go into.Next coat the washer and shims with black grease or green slime as well as the outdrive shaft before pushing it thru,this will help with leaking.Check that the diff cups hold the nsrts in tight before gluing ,if not get new cups!!Also when rebuilding your diffs,make sure to seat the little alum blocks all the way down into the slots in the cupsThis should fix bout everything You need for perfect diffs!Hope that helps! Cheers!!
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
R.O.A.R. does not allow dish wheels on S.C Trucks do they?
8.10.13 1/10th Expert Open Short Course Truck 4x4
8.10.13.1 Dimensional Specifications:
Item Limit Specification ( * measured axle center)
Wheel base* Minimum 320mm (12.59 in) Maximum 335mm (13.19 in)
Overall Length Minimum 511mm (20.10 in) Maximum 568mm (22.36 in)
Overall Width* Minimum 273mm (10.75 in) Maximum 296mm (11.65 in)
Weight (Ready to Race) Minimum 2505 gr (88 oz)
Vehicle Height Overall Minimum 199mm (7.835 in)
Wheel bead Inner Maximum 76.20mm (3.0 in)
diameter Outer Maximum 55.88mm (2.2 in)
Wheel bead width Maximum 39.37mm (1.55 in)
Wheel width Maximum 41.9mm (1.65 in)
Tires Diameter mounted Minimum 99mm (3.90 in)
Tire width mounted Maximum 46.99mm (1.85 in)
Dish Style Wheels Expressly Prohibited


Now, what exactly is a dish style wheel? Who knows, but DE racing says their wheels are a "beadlock wheel with a mud cover".

I think it looks about as good and as realistic as the 1/8 scale wheels on the SCTs... which is not good at all.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm
8.10.13 1/10th Expert Open Short Course Truck 4x4
8.10.13.1 Dimensional Specifications:
Item Limit Specification ( * measured axle center)
Wheel base* Minimum 320mm (12.59 in) Maximum 335mm (13.19 in)
Overall Length Minimum 511mm (20.10 in) Maximum 568mm (22.36 in)
Overall Width* Minimum 273mm (10.75 in) Maximum 296mm (11.65 in)
Weight (Ready to Race) Minimum 2505 gr (88 oz)
Vehicle Height Overall Minimum 199mm (7.835 in)
Wheel bead Inner Maximum 76.20mm (3.0 in)
diameter Outer Maximum 55.88mm (2.2 in)
Wheel bead width Maximum 39.37mm (1.55 in)
Wheel width Maximum 41.9mm (1.65 in)
Tires Diameter mounted Minimum 99mm (3.90 in)
Tire width mounted Maximum 46.99mm (1.85 in)
Dish Style Wheels Expressly Prohibited


Now, what exactly is a dish style wheel? Who knows, but DE racing says their wheels are a "beadlock wheel with a mud cover".

I think it looks about as good and as realistic as the 1/8 scale wheels on the SCTs... which is not good at all.
Thanks Gary
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:02 PM
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Yeah not too good of an idea on a semi-scale class on de's part. Would be cool for club racing though.
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene158
Looks good!

Originally Posted by BmainStar

That looks sick Phreak!!
Thanks buddy!
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:00 AM
  #39493  
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I've ran my SCTE with a Tekin RX8 for a year now. I was forced to use my backup hobbywing xerun 120a today and loved that ESC so much. It's not as punchy but I don't lose anything from my pro4 4600.

Now, since the fan is a problem....
What's the difference between the xerun 120amp and the sct pro?
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:31 AM
  #39494  
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Have a small problem. The screws holding the shocks to the a-arms has come out a little during the past two races I've had. On the rear one has done so only a little bit but on the front it was definitely making it's way out.

Any tips on preventing this from happening? I was thinking blue loctite just to give it a little more hold but have since heard it's not good for plastics.

Was thinking maybe thread tape as a possible solution?

Maybe even CA glue, but I'm a little concerned it won't come out after ward?
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:49 AM
  #39495  
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Have a small problem. The screws holding the shocks to the a-arms has come out a little during the past two races I've had. On the rear one has done so only a little bit but on the front it was definitely making it's way out.

Any tips on preventing this from happening? I was thinking blue loctite just to give it a little more hold but have since heard it's not good for plastics.

Was thinking maybe thread tape as a possible solution?

Maybe even CA glue, but I'm a little concerned it won't come out after ward?
It happens because of the rotation of the shock end. It will ever so slowly back out on the left rear and right front .

I personally use longer screws that go all the way through and add a locknut on the back to hold them on, but you can also buy left hand thread screws from Losi that will fix the issues on those 2 shocks.

http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA6285
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