BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (39)

Diffs are packed with grease, should still change it , helps get to know the truck a lil better too

Jim Bob

iTrader: (2)

Anyone else have leaky diffs? I notice my center diff especially seems to leak. It's not a whole lot but it leaves a line right under it.

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

where is everybody ordering these tenshock motors from? seems like alot of guys like them. anybody running one with the lrp ix8 esc?

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

http://builtrc.com/brushless_motors.aspx

^^^^Just ordered mine from buildrc.com ^^^^


Or on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenshock-Sho...item19d45a381b

thegame7

iTrader: (1)

Stock chassis is not 7075. It's probably stamped 6061 or something similar. 5052 is far too soft to be chassis material. Aftermarket chassis are 7075, hence why they hold up a lot better.

Jim Bob

iTrader: (2)

BuiltRC.com!

EJ is the man! Best customer service in the RC industry and a very nice guy.

.AJ.

I use m3 x 12mm with the KHZ motor mount

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

funshobby.com - ordered from them a couple of times and it arrived in a week to Australia. Good service!

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Thanks for the info

ALso I was wondering what teeth pinions to order in this truck on 2 cell with a 4000kv sensored 4 pole motor, will be on a medium to large-ish track

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Before you order the 4000, everyone has suggested to me to get the 4600. I'll be running on a track about the same size, so I'd suggest it to you as well.

nanoverse

Yes all the diffs leak thats a design problem that should have been fixed before launch. Well we have tested a lot of different things but for now the best solution seems to be to get loctite gasket silicon, zap a gap pink (with needle), some kicker, brake cleaner.

First let the paper gaskets soak in break cleaner for a while. Then put some gasket sealer in your hand ( use gloves ) and rub it all over the wet paper gasket. Put some cleaner on your finger as it helps to smear the stuff around. Let it sit for 30-60min or let it dry overnight. Both work as the little wet silicon is getting in all the nooks little better we prefer that method.

Next step is to glue the metal inserts into the housing. Clean all parts wirth break cleaner. Now push the inserts in real good and i mean real good. The insert shoud come out about finger nail width outside if not then push harder or get other housing.
Now apply the super glue with a needle from the inside. Use so much that the orifices are shut. Use kicker and scrape off if there is glue on the top of the insert.
Glue the outside too just to be sure as the diff spins/wobbles. Repeat for the top housing. The insert doesnt portrude here as much its just a little top of flush.

Put the thing together dry and take care not to push a lot on the outdrives. If it feels notchy try different gears. Sometime the housing just doesnt work and has to be disgarded. But usually built this way its quite smooth even dry.

Now put oil in the diff. Not too much. And screw in a cross pattern at first, not all the way in. One screw a little bit tighter then the opposite. Try if the gear action is smooth before tightening all the way. Built correctly you can tighten the screws quite tight.

Now the most important part. If its notchy at all or the gears dont move at all it's built wrong. It should be butter smooth this way.

Building scte diffs is an art form.

There is also something wrong with the diff shims getting almost totally worn out by driving one race day. Doesnt matter if they are stock or the superduper hardened ones. Maybe the kingheadz quadra bearings in center will help.

.AJ.

I order all my Tenshock kit also from Funshobby, but im in the UK xD

nanoverse

Search also for "Mamyllyn" he has some pics up of the procedure.

NitroLuver

iTrader: (46)

gonna try something different with my truck...will post my findings next week

J.Pietsch

iTrader: (9)

Here's another vote for Builtrc.com, it's where I bought my Tenshock from.