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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-02-2012, 07:12 PM
  #38956  
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Have a question..I am fairly new to the losi scte,and was wondering which aftermarket rear torque rod I need for the losi flex tunned chassi?

Also for Chris Atterberry,will your lipo mount work with NO mods on the losi flex tunned chassi? will a Maxamps 6500 hardcase lipo work in your mount?
LxWxH ??

Thanks for your help,
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:52 PM
  #38957  
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The tray is designed to fit ANY standard layout chassis including Losi, TLR, BCE, Bump, Jammin, and King Headz. With the included hardware you shoudl be able to run ANY rear brace too.

Any ROAR standard size lipos will fit (138mx46mm) with a little wiggle room.

Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
Have a question..I am fairly new to the losi scte,and was wondering which aftermarket rear torque rod I need for the losi flex tunned chassi?

Also for Chris Atterberry,will your lipo mount work with NO mods on the losi flex tunned chassi? will a Maxamps 6500 hardcase lipo work in your mount?
LxWxH ??

Thanks for your help,
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:37 PM
  #38958  
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Whats the opinion on the MIP Pro4mance Chassis or the Xtreme Racing Chassis?

Last edited by The Colonel01; 09-03-2012 at 07:46 PM. Reason: _
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:57 PM
  #38959  
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Default HELP!

Hey,
I recently just completely redid my Scte and And ever since Ive had a glitching issue. I am running a MMP with Novak 4.5 And S6040 servo. I went up to mikes and I was told to run a capacitor, lower my gearing from a 15t pinion to a 13t and I cut my motor wires shorter. That helped alot but the glitching is there and last week it brought me from 1st into 5th Plz help.
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:09 PM
  #38960  
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Originally Posted by Rcdudes3475 View Post
Hey,
I recently just completely redid my Scte and And ever since Ive had a glitching issue. I am running a MMP with Novak 4.5 And S6040 servo. I went up to mikes and I was told to run a capacitor, lower my gearing from a 15t pinion to a 13t and I cut my motor wires shorter. That helped alot but the glitching is there and last week it brought me from 1st into 5th Plz help.
You're going to get the same advice here is you did on the other thread. Capacitor or external bec.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:01 AM
  #38961  
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Default Nailed the Two Stage Set Up!

After messing around with the RCshox two stage pistons now for a few months, I believe that I have now completely nailed the set up.

I went to the races yesterday in Coral Springs. My first two qualifiers where crap because I broke and also because the car was nose diving big time.

It had not been nose diving before this, but I had just increased the size of the compression holes on the two stage pistons in the rear only by .1mm. I took them from 1.1 up to 1.2mm.

So now the front is 1.1mm compression and 1.4mm rebound. The back is 1.2mm compression and 1.4 rebound. When I did this I did not have any seat time on the truck and left the shock oil and locations the same.

The shock oil turned out to be to thin with the larger compression holes in the rear shock pistons. The chassis was slapping in the rear at the tops of the jumps resulting in it nosing over off of all jumps.

So I made some changes on the fly between the qualifiers and the main. I pulled off the rear shocks and increased the weight of the associated oil from 30w up to 35. I moved the front shock mounting location in one on the top. And I moved the rear shock location out in one on the bottom.

The car in the main (battery died) was absolutely the easiest thing to drive off all time. The track was loose and throwing it around was effortless. It was a little blown out as well and it just sucked up all of the holes like an authentic full scale race truck would. I was stoked.

Front

Black Springs
35w oil
1.1/1.4 compression/rebound rcshox pistons
Inside top, outside bottom mounting locations
Thickest sway bar
negative .5 Caster using the adjustable losi hinge pin holders
27mm ride height (body off)
8000 diff fluid
2 degrees toe out
1.5 degrees camber

Center diff 5000

Rear

Orange Springs
35w oil
1.2/1.4 Compression/Rebound
Outside top, Inside bottom mounting locations
Medium thickness sway bar
3 Degrees anti-squat
3 Degrees toe in
27mm ride height (body off)
4000 Diff fluid
1.5 Camber

It is hands down easy to throw around the track now. Soars level off of jumps like an engineer dialed it in.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:09 AM
  #38962  
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb View Post
After messing around with the RCshox two stage pistons now for a few months, I believe that I have now completely nailed the set up.

I went to the races yesterday in Coral Springs. My first two qualifiers where crap because I broke and also because the car was nose diving big time.

It had not been nose diving before this, but I had just increased the size of the compression holes on the two stage pistons in the rear only by .1mm. I took them from 1.1 up to 1.2mm.

So now the front is 1.1mm compression and 1.4mm rebound. The back is 1.2mm compression and 1.4 rebound. When I did this I did not have any seat time on the truck and left the shock oil and locations the same.

The shock oil turned out to be to thin with the larger compression holes in the rear shock pistons. The chassis was slapping in the rear at the tops of the jumps resulting in it nosing over off of all jumps.

So I made some changes on the fly between the qualifiers and the main. I pulled off the rear shocks and increased the weight of the associated oil from 30w up to 35. I moved the front shock mounting location in one on the top. And I moved the rear shock location out in one on the bottom.

The car in the main (battery died) was absolutely the easiest thing to drive off all time. The track was loose and throwing it around was effortless. It was a little blown out as well and it just sucked up all of the holes like an authentic full scale race truck would. I was stoked.

Front

Black Springs
35w oil
1.1/1.4 compression/rebound rcshox pistons
Inside top, outside bottom mounting locations
Thickest sway bar
negative .5 Caster using the adjustable losi hinge pin holders
27mm ride height (body off)
8000 diff fluid
2 degrees toe out
1.5 degrees camber

Center diff 5000

Rear

Orange Springs
35w oil
1.2/1.4 Compression/Rebound
Outside top, Inside bottom mounting locations
Medium thickness sway bar
3 Degrees anti-squat
3 Degrees toe in
27mm ride height (body off)
4000 Diff fluid
1.5 Camber

It is hands down easy to throw around the track now. Soars level off of jumps like an engineer dialed it in.
Thanks for all the detailed info..... Good stuff to try out
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:55 AM
  #38963  
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well...same here! Did some playing around with mine finally after getting quite a few new parts installed and removing front sway bar. It def handled awesome! However...this was just out in the yard with some home made jumps as my nephew wanted to run since its been awhile so we got them out. Didnt matter which jump i hit i could control the truck off the jump with the throttle and didnt have much luck with this before but now that we are coming up on the end of the year i think our track is outta commission and our father in law sold his big tractors which is what we used to start fresh as it is all grown up now and had plans to re-do and test it out this year and have it ready for next year so hopefully he gets his new tractor soon and we can use it to start over. But other than a noisy diff(i think i kno why) the truck was awesome and even in the medium to tall grass i was running 160* on the motor and 110* on the esc. All in all, until i can run on a track to really see how it works im tickled it drove/handled so well
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:28 PM
  #38964  
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Hey everyone, just got my SCTE all together and running prefect. Just wanting to know what all would be a good idea to replace upgrade from the get go. I know there's probably a list in the thread somewhere but almost 3k pages is a lot to search through. Any suggestions? Not looking to drop another $500 on it or make it "look pretty," just the basic need to upgrade things.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:39 PM
  #38965  
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Originally Posted by TimMo846 View Post
Hey everyone, just got my SCTE all together and running prefect. Just wanting to know what all would be a good idea to replace upgrade from the get go. I know there's probably a list in the thread somewhere but almost 3k pages is a lot to search through. Any suggestions? Not looking to drop another $500 on it or make it "look pretty," just the basic need to upgrade things.
aluim servo arm and when the outdrive wear out use the hd ones, and i use the rpm front bumper, and i shaved the ribbes of the bottom of the bumper. only 2 races on mine all great so far.... oh and i put in a better bolt for the motor clamp..
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:50 PM
  #38966  
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Originally Posted by TimMo846 View Post
Hey everyone, just got my SCTE all together and running prefect. Just wanting to know what all would be a good idea to replace upgrade from the get go. I know there's probably a list in the thread somewhere but almost 3k pages is a lot to search through. Any suggestions? Not looking to drop another $500 on it or make it "look pretty," just the basic need to upgrade things.
Just go to the first page in the thread
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:07 PM
  #38967  
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Default 2s or 3s Stock SCTE

Still bashing with my SCTE and LOVE it, great truck ! Had a little problem today don't know if I got a bad battery or what but puffed it up some. It is a Nano-Tech 2s 6600 65c. Would I be better off with a 3s battery for bashing or stick to 2s. Have the stock 2800KV motor with 20t pinion. I only ran this Nano-Tech about 4-5 times. any ideas ??
HK wants to credit me for the price of the battery but don't know if I should try another 2s 6600 65c or drop down some c's or go 3s or what.
Also if i go 3s would I need to run a different pinion or can I stick with the 20t ?
THANKS
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:48 PM
  #38968  
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Originally Posted by Ralph289 View Post
Still bashing with my SCTE and LOVE it, great truck ! Had a little problem today don't know if I got a bad battery or what but puffed it up some. It is a Nano-Tech 2s 6600 65c. Would I be better off with a 3s battery for bashing or stick to 2s. Have the stock 2800KV motor with 20t pinion. I only ran this Nano-Tech about 4-5 times. any ideas ??
HK wants to credit me for the price of the battery but don't know if I should try another 2s 6600 65c or drop down some c's or go 3s or what.
Also if i go 3s would I need to run a different pinion or can I stick with the 20t ?
THANKS
For bashing I would go 3-s for sure ! That motor has a very low kv and on 3-s it would run cooler and longer.The big pinion is for low kv on 2-s so yes drop to a 14-16 pinion for 3-s and do tell how she flew!!Cheers!
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:54 PM
  #38969  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
For bashing I would go 3-s for sure ! That motor has a very low kv and on 3-s it would run cooler and longer.The big pinion is for low kv on 2-s so yes drop to a 14-16 pinion for 3-s and do tell how she flew!!Cheers!
I have a 15t pinion I can try with a 3s.
Any ideas on rating that would be good as I have a credit from HK they have a 5000 45-90c battery would something like that be ok ??
THANKS for the help
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:21 PM
  #38970  
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Originally Posted by Ralph289 View Post
I have a 15t pinion I can try with a 3s.
Any ideas on rating that would be good as I have a credit from HK they have a 5000 45-90c battery would something like that be ok ??
THANKS for the help
Ya perfect,I would start with a 14 check temps then go to 15 if all is good there!
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