9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-26-2012, 11:31 PM
Originally Posted by Rysuleod
My SCTE has been driving me nuts. I bought it used from another guy and every time I drive it it feels edgy. I think the best way to describe it is it feels like I have very little side bite in the rear.
I am using the LOSB0127_Setup_Dunford-02_12 setup except I have 30wt in the shocks. I have blue springs on the front because I can't find my black springs! Currently at 573 diff fluid. SC4x 4.5 geared 15/40 (need to gear down because this is too fast for my track). I am using AKA Cityblocks (unknown compound) with what feels like harder than AKA red foams. It has the TLR chassis with a long plastic chassis brace (i.e. not the stock one).
I have experimented with 332, 553, getting rid of the extra droop on the shock eyelets, going to crazy low ride height 21mm front 26 rear, and a few other things. The truck still feels edgy at after all changes. I'm a good 2wd buggy driver so I'd like to think it's not my driving!
My friend's nearly box stock SCTE feels more neutral and drivable. He is at 535, AKA Super Soft gridirons with red foams, 30wt in whatever the stock pistons are, literally stock everything else. The only think I can remember that he has different is his rear hub camber link is inside and mine is outside.
Could this long winded problem just be a tire thing or could it be related to the TLR chassis and long chassis brace? Any ideas?
I am using the LOSB0127_Setup_Dunford-02_12 setup except I have 30wt in the shocks. I have blue springs on the front because I can't find my black springs! Currently at 573 diff fluid. SC4x 4.5 geared 15/40 (need to gear down because this is too fast for my track). I am using AKA Cityblocks (unknown compound) with what feels like harder than AKA red foams. It has the TLR chassis with a long plastic chassis brace (i.e. not the stock one).
I have experimented with 332, 553, getting rid of the extra droop on the shock eyelets, going to crazy low ride height 21mm front 26 rear, and a few other things. The truck still feels edgy at after all changes. I'm a good 2wd buggy driver so I'd like to think it's not my driving!
My friend's nearly box stock SCTE feels more neutral and drivable. He is at 535, AKA Super Soft gridirons with red foams, 30wt in whatever the stock pistons are, literally stock everything else. The only think I can remember that he has different is his rear hub camber link is inside and mine is outside.
Could this long winded problem just be a tire thing or could it be related to the TLR chassis and long chassis brace? Any ideas?
27mm ride height put 2k diff oil rear
08-26-2012, 11:41 PM
ackerman
what exactly happes as far as handling when you change the Ackerman linkage from long to short or vise versa. What are the handling differences that I should expect between the two?
08-26-2012, 11:43 PM
Originally Posted by thedopeshow
new to scte does the Ten T and Scte share the same diffs? (gear Box)
08-26-2012, 11:46 PM
Originally Posted by Josey Wales
what exactly happes as far as handling when you change the Ackerman linkage from long to short or vise versa. What are the handling differences that I should expect between the two?
http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html
08-27-2012, 12:40 AM
Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
what is motor cog?
so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
08-27-2012, 02:10 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by rcgod
Sounds like your sensor wire is either not connected properly or is bad. Double check it.
08-27-2012, 03:24 AM
Originally Posted by RC_Woody
I haven't done it yet, but based on one of Caspers or maybe Chris A. posts a while back, I picked up the losi 22 low friction o-rings. However based on the thread you needed a 3.5x7x1mm or 1.5mm spacer to put in it as well. I have the parts at home, and I would double check in this thread, but I think there were
TLR5074 Team Losi Racing Low Friction Shock Shaft O-Rings (8)
TLR5096 Team Losi Racing 3.5mm Shock Shaft Limiter Set (TLR 22)
(the shim set has multiple sizes, Not sure if there is 4 of the same or just 2 in, haven't checked yet)
TLR5074 Team Losi Racing Low Friction Shock Shaft O-Rings (8)
TLR5096 Team Losi Racing 3.5mm Shock Shaft Limiter Set (TLR 22)
(the shim set has multiple sizes, Not sure if there is 4 of the same or just 2 in, haven't checked yet)
08-27-2012, 03:47 AM
Originally Posted by krits
could you link to that thread? or to provide a detailed scheme of assembly?
08-27-2012, 07:11 AM
Looking for a little help here... I built a "King Headz" edition SCTE with every King Headz part available (Chassis, outdrives, dog bones, braces and such). This is my thrid SCTE with all the others using the Losi aftermarket chassis. For some reason, I can not get the truck to stop nose diving on EVERY jump and EVERY track I atttend. I have tried everyting I know. I have used different springs, oil weight, ride height and such. Has anyone else had this problem? I have ZERO drag brake and even if I accelorate through the jump, it will still nose dive.
08-27-2012, 07:21 AM
Originally Posted by lewis4x4
Looking for a little help here... I built a "King Headz" edition SCTE with every King Headz part available (Chassis, outdrives, dog bones, braces and such). This is my thrid SCTE with all the others using the Losi aftermarket chassis. For some reason, I can not get the truck to stop nose diving on EVERY jump and EVERY track I atttend. I have tried everyting I know. I have used different springs, oil weight, ride height and such. Has anyone else had this problem? I have ZERO drag brake and even if I accelorate through the jump, it will still nose dive.
depending on motor and speed control this is a vague answer. gearing.
if your running a 13 tooth go to a 14 and remember if your at full throttle going up the jump and pinned speed you need a little more motor or speed control to use that to lift the nose. break nose down throttle on nose up. if you running out of power that would cause your problem. also try moving battery all the way to the back. then make sure body is as far back so the front bumper is not touching the body if your body is mounted to far forward that could cause the problem also.. but I would try gearing first then the rest after
08-27-2012, 07:29 AM
I think I had my first DNF ever with this truck Friday night,Running 2nd in our local club race great outdoors series and threw her down for the mains and some horrendous noise started to come out of My Baby!
Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock up
Here is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motor
Bought this motor used with very little run time on her!
Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motorBought this motor used with very little run time on her!
08-27-2012, 07:33 AM
Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
what is motor cog?
so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
08-27-2012, 07:41 AM
Originally Posted by BmainStar
I think I had my first DNF ever with this truck Friday night,Running 2nd in our local club race great outdoors series and threw her down for the mains and some horrendous noise started to come out of My Baby!Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motor
Bought this motor used with very little run time on her!
Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motorBought this motor used with very little run time on her!
08-27-2012, 08:03 AM
You can spin the end bell part around to use new holes...also make sure you let the lock tite set before you use it, like 10-15mins should be ok.
This has happened to me before. Just make sure before a big race you check the screws, reapply lock tite if needed.
This has happened to me before. Just make sure before a big race you check the screws, reapply lock tite if needed.
08-27-2012, 08:55 AM
Originally Posted by BmainStar
I think I had my first DNF ever with this truck Friday night,Running 2nd in our local club race great outdoors series and threw her down for the mains and some horrendous noise started to come out of My Baby!Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motor
Bought this motor used with very little run time on her!
Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motorBought this motor used with very little run time on her!
