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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-26-2012, 05:05 PM
  #38731  
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+3
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffem62
I hit 165 and I thought that was hot.
Oh thats just fine!

The Pro4's can handle anything up to 190, I try to keep mine around 180 at thie highest. But thats just me.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:42 PM
  #38733  
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Originally Posted by pfraser2488
running a 13tooth pinion
rx8 settings are
drag break=0
brake strength=50
push=0
min brake=5
netural width=58
current limit=75
reverse=off
throttle min=0
timing=min
timming profile=c1
curve=3
Your settings look fine.You need to go through and check for binding,bad solder connections or joints and Im not sure what kind of battery your using but make sure your not using the birdcage bullets because they will cause heat.Also make sure your pinions not rubbing the KH motor mount.Just a few things to start with im sure someone will chime in with more.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:44 PM
  #38734  
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Originally Posted by Losi57
Your settings look fine.You need to go through and check for binding,bad solder connections or joints and Im not sure what kind of battery your using but make sure your not using the birdcage bullets because they will cause heat.Also make sure your pinions not rubbing the KH motor mount.Just a few things to start with im sure someone will chime in with more.
+1

That all sounds fine, but running in the yard isn't really good on a race truck. It will get hot pretty quick doing that.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:51 PM
  #38735  
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Originally Posted by Rysuleod
My SCTE has been driving me nuts. I bought it used from another guy and every time I drive it it feels edgy. I think the best way to describe it is it feels like I have very little side bite in the rear.

I am using the LOSB0127_Setup_Dunford-02_12 setup except I have 30wt in the shocks. I have blue springs on the front because I can't find my black springs! Currently at 573 diff fluid. SC4x 4.5 geared 15/40 (need to gear down because this is too fast for my track). I am using AKA Cityblocks (unknown compound) with what feels like harder than AKA red foams. It has the TLR chassis with a long plastic chassis brace (i.e. not the stock one).

I have experimented with 332, 553, getting rid of the extra droop on the shock eyelets, going to crazy low ride height 21mm front 26 rear, and a few other things. The truck still feels edgy at after all changes. I'm a good 2wd buggy driver so I'd like to think it's not my driving!

My friend's nearly box stock SCTE feels more neutral and drivable. He is at 535, AKA Super Soft gridirons with red foams, 30wt in whatever the stock pistons are, literally stock everything else. The only think I can remember that he has different is his rear hub camber link is inside and mine is outside.

Could this long winded problem just be a tire thing or could it be related to the TLR chassis and long chassis brace? Any ideas?
See if you can use his grids for a couple laps.Set your ride height at 27mm front and back to start.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:14 PM
  #38736  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
+1

That all sounds fine, but running in the yard isn't really good on a race truck. It will get hot pretty quick doing that.
+1. Just what I was about to say. Running through grass is about the hardest strain you can put on electronics. No way one can judge temps doing that.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:26 PM
  #38737  
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new to scte does the Ten T and Scte share the same diffs? (gear Box)
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:05 PM
  #38738  
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Originally Posted by .AJ.
Has anyone tried this rear brace yet??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fioroni-As...c2f9fb6&_uhb=1
I used one in the past on my Losi 8b worked really well . For the most part I kept it locked but if you needed more rear bite it was a simple adjustment . It is a bit pricey though . Now on my SCTE I use a torque rod and if I need more rear bite I switch back to the stock plastic brace . ( with a TLR chassis )
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
i think it could be motor cog. unplug the censer cable and see if it still has that problem. then try a different censer cable. it could be also....a bearing in the diff cases about to go. or motor bearing. clean check replace as needed after 2 or 3 races.
what is motor cog?

so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:52 PM
  #38740  
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Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
what is motor cog?

so i took the rear drive shaft off and it still made the noise. so i took the front one off as well and it still did that, i think meaning its the center diff? how can i tell if the bearings are bad or the diff is. i spin the diff and bearings by it self and it and it seems to spin fine with no drag or noises. im so confused with this problem. the car was brand new and i have never ran it before and it was doing it since i started it up for the first time. but it only makes that noise when i go full throttle from a dead stop. thx again!
Sounds like your sensor wire is either not connected properly or is bad. Double check it.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:25 PM
  #38741  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Great. Something else that's not needed for this truck. Maybe for the few running an 1/8 scale system. Never had a problem with stock plastic pieces and I'm on my third truck. How about some new diff cases with bearings to support the wobbly outdrives? King headz already took care of the center diff for us.

+1
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rysuleod
My SCTE has been driving me nuts. I bought it used from another guy and every time I drive it it feels edgy. I think the best way to describe it is it feels like I have very little side bite in the rear.

I am using the LOSB0127_Setup_Dunford-02_12 setup except I have 30wt in the shocks. I have blue springs on the front because I can't find my black springs! Currently at 573 diff fluid. SC4x 4.5 geared 15/40 (need to gear down because this is too fast for my track). I am using AKA Cityblocks (unknown compound) with what feels like harder than AKA red foams. It has the TLR chassis with a long plastic chassis brace (i.e. not the stock one).

I have experimented with 332, 553, getting rid of the extra droop on the shock eyelets, going to crazy low ride height 21mm front 26 rear, and a few other things. The truck still feels edgy at after all changes. I'm a good 2wd buggy driver so I'd like to think it's not my driving!

My friend's nearly box stock SCTE feels more neutral and drivable. He is at 535, AKA Super Soft gridirons with red foams, 30wt in whatever the stock pistons are, literally stock everything else. The only think I can remember that he has different is his rear hub camber link is inside and mine is outside.

Could this long winded problem just be a tire thing or could it be related to the TLR chassis and long chassis brace? Any ideas?


27mm ride height put 2k diff oil rear
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:41 PM
  #38743  
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what exactly happes as far as handling when you change the Ackerman linkage from long to short or vise versa. What are the handling differences that I should expect between the two?
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by thedopeshow
new to scte does the Ten T and Scte share the same diffs? (gear Box)
yes
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Josey Wales
what exactly happes as far as handling when you change the Ackerman linkage from long to short or vise versa. What are the handling differences that I should expect between the two?


http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html
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