Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Use GOOGLE if you have the part number and question.

http://www.toysonics.com/hot-bodies-...ar-15t-1m.html = shows as MOD1

jnyrcr

iTrader: (5)

That is a mod 1 pinion, it's the one used on the ve8 1/8 scale, it'll work just fine.

allan42r

do we really need to post this pic 5 times?

jnyrcr

iTrader: (5)

Why not six, who's counting?

nanoverse

Has somebody found the axle, outdrive and wheel hex pins as a complete set from somewhere. If not then Chris should make them!

cpt_RedBeard

iTrader: (22)

Is that MOD 1???

BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

Could be Mod 1 , Mod 1.0 , or Mod ONE ! Pretty sure its one of those ........

goehm

iTrader: (45)

This makes me long for the great chassis debates.

Honu

iTrader: (22)

Any pixs

chucko

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I kike. not saying its the best ,, but close enough

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

My SCTE has been driving me nuts. I bought it used from another guy and every time I drive it it feels edgy. I think the best way to describe it is it feels like I have very little side bite in the rear.

I am using the LOSB0127_Setup_Dunford-02_12 setup except I have 30wt in the shocks. I have blue springs on the front because I can't find my black springs! Currently at 573 diff fluid. SC4x 4.5 geared 15/40 (need to gear down because this is too fast for my track). I am using AKA Cityblocks (unknown compound) with what feels like harder than AKA red foams. It has the TLR chassis with a long plastic chassis brace (i.e. not the stock one).

I have experimented with 332, 553, getting rid of the extra droop on the shock eyelets, going to crazy low ride height 21mm front 26 rear, and a few other things. The truck still feels edgy at after all changes. I'm a good 2wd buggy driver so I'd like to think it's not my driving!

My friend's nearly box stock SCTE feels more neutral and drivable. He is at 535, AKA Super Soft gridirons with red foams, 30wt in whatever the stock pistons are, literally stock everything else. The only think I can remember that he has different is his rear hub camber link is inside and mine is outside.

Could this long winded problem just be a tire thing or could it be related to the TLR chassis and long chassis brace? Any ideas?

rcgod

iTrader: (32)

What jumps out at me are several things. Front springs too soft, long rear brace and tires. Also make sure there is no drag brake in the esc and no binding in the drivetrain.

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

I run zero drag brake and I've replaced all bearings but the steering bellcrank. Everything in the drive train is currently smooth. I've had this thing apart quite a bit while making adjustments to try to tame the beast.

Is a long chassis brace counteracting the additional flex of the TLR chassis?

NITROALM

Hey Chuck Thank you and or other racers for the nice words
Btw.. The polish looks real nice

I spoke to Chris Attebery Yesterday and we went over a few things for him
to try. He did have alot of good info as far as his On track experience
He runs with some Very fast Nor Cal guys
I did also remind him that he has had his chassis for close to a year
and that we have made three changes since we first came out with His Generation. We will award him the Duriability Awarde..

Hi A/J drop me a em once you get to run with your A/E Long brace
we have had some favorable feed back from some of our local

nitro_mt_racer

iTrader: (230)

If your friend runs gridirons and your trying to run city blocks on the same track then I would start there.