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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-17-2011, 09:15 AM
  #3856  
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sorry to change the subject but why did losi make a 4x4 with two drive shafts? i have a 4x4 from another company (dont want to start anything so i am not saying the name) and i also own this truck and my other one has a one piece solid shaft. what i am tring to say is that i am having to do more repairs to the losi being that there is more parts to the driveshaft, also that it wieghs more cause of these extra parts. dont you all think it would have been a cleaner and easier and reduce wieght 4x4 with a solid shaft? i also noticed that it tends to bind up a little with all these extra parts going differant ways instead of one straight line shaft. also with the diffs. i broke more outdrive shafts in the center cause of the output shafts being thinner on the losi than my other 4x4.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
how does the 2650 mmm/ compare to the mmpsc 1415?
just curious, I have some Ideals pinging around in my head, involves a three cell, and how I'm gonna run it in the outdoor, I have the 1415 with mmpsc in it now and that is plenty for the indoor on two cell, but I'm gonna get a lil crazy on the outdoor tip, maybe.
I have a 1410 not a 1415 so I cant really compare but I do have a 10T with NEU 1512 2550kv running 3s and let me tell it's just crazy fast and the bottom end grunt makes you think your running 4s instead not 3s.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by krazikev View Post
sorry to change the subject but why did losi make a 4x4 with two drive shafts? i have a 4x4 from another company (dont want to start anything so i am not saying the name) and i also own this truck and my other one has a one piece solid shaft. what i am tring to say is that i am having to do more repairs to the losi being that there is more parts to the driveshaft, also that it wieghs more cause of these extra parts. dont you all think it would have been a cleaner and easier and reduce wieght 4x4 with a solid shaft? i also noticed that it tends to bind up a little with all these extra parts going differant ways instead of one straight line shaft. also with the diffs. i broke more outdrive shafts in the center cause of the output shafts being thinner on the losi than my other 4x4.
solid driveshaft means you don't get a center differential and your front and rear wheels don't have the ablity to spin at different speeds

the reason your other driveshaft is beefier looking is that it's aluminum and hollow, the losi's driveshaft is steel and every bit as strong as that larger driveshaft made of softer metal from the "other company/traxxas"

also, just because there are two of something doesn't mean it's always going to be heavier than a design with one of something
two smaller driveshafts can be lighter than one larger one. the longer the driveshaft is, the heavier and beefier it has to be to handle the power
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
how does the 2650 mmm/ compare to the mmpsc 1415?
just curious, I have some Ideals pinging around in my head, involves a three cell, and how I'm gonna run it in the outdoor, I have the 1415 with mmpsc in it now and that is plenty for the indoor on two cell, but I'm gonna get a lil crazy on the outdoor tip, maybe.
I have been playing around with both the 1410 and the 1415 on 3s lately. But not in the short course. Ive been using them in 1/8e buggies. The 1410 on 3s in my converted losi 810 is a total beast. It feels every bit as powerful as the 5s and Tekin 1400kv motor or the 4s and tekin 1900kv motors I was running before this. Now the losi 810 is a very lightweight buggy, and is based on the exact same platform as this SCTE so it should be a fairly close comparison. All of my testing has been on good sized indoor tracks with high traction. Temps have been good on the motor. 130's after 10 minute main and I see no reason why this motor wouldnt work well on 3s in the SCTE for a big outdoor layout.

I was so impressed with the 1410 that I decided to see what the 1415 could do in a ful size 1/8e. I just bought a Mugen MBX6e Eco and I set it up with the 1415 and 3s. I haven't had it on the track, but just doing some initial evaluation in the parking lot near my house, it should handle it with no issues. Plowing through a full pack of basically full throttle back and fourth on the street and the motor only came of at around 108 degrees. It was pretty cold outside (45 degrees or so) and the street isn't the track so I'm expecting that the temps will get higher in warm weather and under race conditions, but results are encouraging.

In a SCTE that motor on 3s would be a total brute. Probably a lb lighter than the 1/8e.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:35 AM
  #3860  
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Originally Posted by krazikev View Post
sorry to change the subject but why did losi make a 4x4 with two drive shafts? i have a 4x4 from another company (dont want to start anything so i am not saying the name) and i also own this truck and my other one has a one piece solid shaft. what i am tring to say is that i am having to do more repairs to the losi being that there is more parts to the driveshaft, also that it wieghs more cause of these extra parts. dont you all think it would have been a cleaner and easier and reduce wieght 4x4 with a solid shaft? i also noticed that it tends to bind up a little with all these extra parts going differant ways instead of one straight line shaft. also with the diffs. i broke more outdrive shafts in the center cause of the output shafts being thinner on the losi than my other 4x4.
The steel center shafts are plenty strong. Don't be fooled by the size as it has been stated already that they are steel and not Alum.

Also as already stated the center diff is a great tuning aid and a very good reason to break up the center shaft of a car.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:50 AM
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Found a way to use big bore 1/8 springs. Used kyosho p/n 346-05 shock parts and kyow0204 shock end bushings. I used hot bodies 60mm grey front springs and 68mm green rear springs and they fit perfect. Front ride height with the collars backed all the way off is 30mm, but I expect the springs to settle in after a couple of runs and allow more adjustment. Also that's with the shocks all the way out on the arms, moving them in will reduce ride height. Not sure who else makes short big bore springs but if they are 60mm or less they should work fine. Total investment is $20 plus springs so this looks like a good option and will allow more spring choices.

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Old 03-17-2011, 10:00 AM
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Nice find!
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:16 AM
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Question for you all. I'm trying to find a bashing wheel/tire combo for my SCTE in case I want to take this truck to the park or other bashing places. Would the Slash wheels/tires fit on the SCTE with no issues (rubbing?)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by snowboardgeek1 View Post
Question for you all. I'm trying to find a bashing wheel/tire combo for my SCTE in case I want to take this truck to the park or other bashing places. Would the Slash wheels/tires fit on the SCTE with no issues (rubbing?)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
They all fit on my truck but I am using a wider hex, they sit off the axles a few more mm's than stock so you don't get the rubbing. With the zero offset Prolines you need to dremel the ribs on the inside of the wheel. Not sure on the Slash front or rear offsets.

I got a set of Jammin wheels/tires to bolt on lol

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Old 03-17-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
If you put 0's in all locations you have the stock settings. Some of us are playing with rear antisquat though. Casey went to 1's up which is 3 deg of antisquat and some of us are at 1's down which is 1 deg of antisquat.
Casper, last weekend at the JBRL Ryan and me were playing with the setup on my truck and we put in .5 up. My question is, what kind of changes in handling do you think I should see with the anti-squat going from 3 to 2.5 ? I was loose entering all day.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:34 AM
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The kit tires should work well for bashing unless you are saving them for your track. You can get traxxas tires unmounted and glue them to SCTE wheels.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Buster661 View Post
Casper, last weekend at the JBRL Ryan and me were playing with the setup on my truck and we put in .5 up. My question is, what kind of changes in handling do you think I should see with the anti-squat going from 3 to 2.5 ? I was loose entering all day.
Good question. Normally more antisquat should give more side bite. There needs to be some balance with the rear end being able to settle in though. My truck was a little loose at the end of the stright and had a lot of steering coming onto the straight but it was controllable. The red's all around may have been a little too agressive but did not mount up silvers to try. What rear spring you running? Antisquat is one of those things you kind of just need to play with a little as it can have different effects depending on your shock package.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Buster661 View Post
Casper, last weekend at the JBRL Ryan and me were playing with the setup on my truck and we put in .5 up. My question is, what kind of changes in handling do you think I should see with the anti-squat going from 3 to 2.5 ? I was loose entering all day.
Actually you had the .5 up to start off with which would be 2.5 and we went to .5 down which would be 1.5, jsut so you know. It seems to let the rear end role more inline with the front end, that is why many of us have gone to this.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:06 AM
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If anyone has a right rear arm they will sale me
Lmk it will b greatly appreciated . I only hav about
5 mins on my truck n was hit by an 8 scale buggy n
Cant find an arm ...
Thanks
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Actually you had the .5 up to start off with which would be 2.5 and we went to .5 down which would be 1.5, jsut so you know. It seems to let the rear end role more inline with the front end, that is why many of us have gone to this.
Thanks Ryan, I remember they were in wrong when you took it apart. So what happened was in round one it was hooked up but as the day went on it got looser. Tires could have been going as the track grooved up as well. Thanks for your help, those changes were a big change now I am just looking for the fine tuning.

Casper, I am running stock springs. 5-5-2 on the diff's, going to 5-5-3 this weekend.
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