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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-16-2012, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyxcom
You probably only really needed to taper the leading edge to keep it from hanging up.

I'm of the opinion that when racing, that's the worse thing you could do to the bottom of your chassis as all that skid plate is - is a friction brake every time it taps the track.
I'd take it off if my gearbox wasn't stripped. I had to use longer 5/8 in screws instead of the stock 3/8 in to keep them from backing out. I don't think it should cause me any problems though as before when i raced with it i couldn't notice it at all. Now at least mud won't cake to it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:45 PM
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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-7-10-2012-001.jpg



I tie wrapped a 1/2 inch heater hose with fiber running through the hose in the area where it flexes, I put the hose in and its lasted a yr. it takes the flex out and stops it from breaking.

Last edited by chucko; 08-16-2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: added picture
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:49 PM
  #38418  
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Originally Posted by chucko
I tie wrapped a 1/2 inch heater hose with fiber running through the hose in the area where it flexes, I put the hose in and its lasted a yr. it takes the flex out and stops it from breaking.
I could probably use the stock bumper but cut out the part that connects to the top of the diff box. The place where it always breaks is at the part where the bumper connects to the top of the diff. Right now i run the rpm and am happy with it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:22 PM
  #38419  
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Originally Posted by tonyxcom
You probably only really needed to taper the leading edge to keep it from hanging up.

I'm of the opinion that when racing, that's the worse thing you could do to the bottom of your chassis as all that skid plate is - is a friction brake every time it taps the track.
+1

I wouldn't want anything on the bottom only my chassis. I'll pay $90 every year for a new chassis instead. Thats why I deep 6'd the RPM garbage bumper.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
+1

I wouldn't want anything on the bottom only my chassis. I'll pay $90 every year for a new chassis instead. Thats why I deep 6'd the RPM garbage bumper.
I agree, should probably get new gear boxes and go back stock. Just gotta make sure i eon't strip the screws!
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I agree, should probably get new gear boxes and go back stock. Just gotta make sure i eon't strip the screws!
The geArboxes are garbage plastic and strip out like crazy. Try longer screws first. Luckily replacement is only $10 money but effort is like 1+ hours
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
The geArboxes are garbage plastic and strip out like crazy. Try longer screws first. Luckily replacement is only $10 money but effort is like 1+ hours
Those phillips screws i have on the rpm skid plate are 5/8 in and they have a nice snug fit on the skidplate. Just wondering if they'll go too far without the skidplate going directly into the gearbox. You think 2/8 of an inch will be too much when getting rid of the skid plate?
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:10 PM
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Holy Cow ---

2.3 million views, and 38k posts? I knew this truck was popular, but damn! I plan on getting one soon and was going to ask the "Must have" list of upgrades, but I have a feeling out of 38k posts, I should find my answer (unless of course someone wants to volunteer all the info up front )
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
Holy Cow ---

2.3 million views, and 38k posts? I knew this truck was popular, but damn! I plan on getting one soon and was going to ask the "Must have" list of upgrades, but I have a feeling out of 38k posts, I should find my answer (unless of course someone wants to volunteer all the info up front )
I'll do them in order of importance:

1. Carbon fiber shock towers (stockers bend easy)
2. Lightened oudrives at all 3 diff ( tekno makes a complete kit with front and rear driveshafts as well, better investment)
3. New tires depending on your track
(4.) sorry had to edit, HA pivot balls and rod ends.
4. New chassis (i like the bce, but all are good choices)
5. Tekno center diff driveshafts
6. Tlr racing spring sets front and rear
7. Kingheadz center diff mount and motor mount (stock motor mount works fine, just needs better screw)
That's about it for me.

Last edited by Rockthecatbox21; 08-16-2012 at 06:22 PM. Reason: forgot one
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I'll do them in order of importance:

1. Carbon fiber shock towers (stockers bend easy)
2. Lightened oudrives at all 3 diff ( tekno makes a complete kit with front and rear driveshafts as well, better investment)
3. New tires depending on your track
(4.) sorry had to edit, HA pivot balls and rod ends.
4. New chassis (i like the bce, but all are good choices)
5. Tekno center diff driveshafts
6. Tlr racing spring sets front and rear
7. Kingheadz center diff mount and motor mount (stock motor mount works fine, just needs better screw)
That's about it for me.

Haha, awesome . Looks like an expensive list.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
Haha, awesome . Looks like an expensive list.
Get the tekno m6 driveshaft kits for front and rear, losi hd lightened outdrives at the center diff, tekno center diff driveshafts and carbon towers and that is all you absolutely need.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:09 PM
  #38427  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Those phillips screws i have on the rpm skid plate are 5/8 in and they have a nice snug fit on the skidplate. Just wondering if they'll go too far without the skidplate going directly into the gearbox. You think 2/8 of an inch will be too much when getting rid of the skid plate?
Sorry but the carpenter in me makes me do it . 2/8" is a 1/4" . I would try it you could always take an 1/8" off with a dremel and a cutoff wheel .
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:15 PM
  #38428  
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
Holy Cow ---

2.3 million views, and 38k posts? I knew this truck was popular, but damn! I plan on getting one soon and was going to ask the "Must have" list of upgrades, but I have a feeling out of 38k posts, I should find my answer (unless of course someone wants to volunteer all the info up front )
If you go back a few pages, there is a list on here. Somewhere around 4 or 5 back.
The list that ol' Catbox made is pretty good start. For sure you will want some serrated wheel nuts. I use the ones for a Blitz, and have never had a problem. Aluminum shock caps are good too.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano628
Sorry but the carpenter in me makes me do it . 2/8" is a 1/4" . I would try it you could always take an 1/8" off with a dremel and a cutoff wheel .
Simplify those fractions!!!!! Can't believe i didn't see that. But i'm just wondering if it will be too much as too the point of it going throught the gearbox. Not too good at machining my own screws but i'm wondering if instead of cutting the existing ones, i should go buy some 1/2 in screws. Would like to still use the 5/8 in screws if i can.
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
Haha, awesome . Looks like an expensive list.
I would say the only right away upgrade is the carbon towers.

Another option is the TLR tuned kit but it is bit of money but you get a lot of great hopups for a much reduced price if you were to get all the parts seperate.

Outdrives I would upgrade when you wear out the stock ones.

Drive shafts are fine out of the box.

Upgrade chassis if you feel you want to take some weight out but run the truck and get used to it first.

I agree with the tires for your track and the racing spring sets!
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