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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-16-2012, 02:15 PM
  #38416  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
There's no reason it shouldn't fit. You're doing something wrong.

Cut out the wheel wells and all around the body first. Then lay the body on top of the posts, line it up front to back, left to right. Mark the posts. Cut it out. Paint. Done.
only fits if i bring the body forward over the front bumper. all my other bodies have fit before this one doesnt line up.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:25 PM
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Hey guys, just got done making a "custom" rpm creation. It used to be an rpm scte rear skidplate, but now its........a flat piece of plastic!!!!!!! Took a ton of dremeling to do this but had to be done since a ton of mud was caking back there.



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Old 08-16-2012, 03:43 PM
  #38418  
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You probably only really needed to taper the leading edge to keep it from hanging up.

I'm of the opinion that when racing, that's the worse thing you could do to the bottom of your chassis as all that skid plate is - is a friction brake every time it taps the track.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by thedopeshow View Post
only fits if i bring the body forward over the front bumper. all my other bodies have fit before this one doesnt line up.
I am running the Proline Flo-tek Raptor body and it was a tight fit getting it behind the front bumper. Had to trim the ends off of the rear bumper to get it to set down properly.

Also had to drill new holes in the front body posts and lower the pivot pad mount down so I could get the body clip thru the post as mine came thru the louvered section too, which 'thickened' the body at that point.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyxcom View Post
You probably only really needed to taper the leading edge to keep it from hanging up.

I'm of the opinion that when racing, that's the worse thing you could do to the bottom of your chassis as all that skid plate is - is a friction brake every time it taps the track.
I'd take it off if my gearbox wasn't stripped. I had to use longer 5/8 in screws instead of the stock 3/8 in to keep them from backing out. I don't think it should cause me any problems though as before when i raced with it i couldn't notice it at all. Now at least mud won't cake to it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:45 PM
  #38421  
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Default Front bumper

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-7-10-2012-001.jpg



I tie wrapped a 1/2 inch heater hose with fiber running through the hose in the area where it flexes, I put the hose in and its lasted a yr. it takes the flex out and stops it from breaking.

Last edited by chucko; 08-16-2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: added picture
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
I tie wrapped a 1/2 inch heater hose with fiber running through the hose in the area where it flexes, I put the hose in and its lasted a yr. it takes the flex out and stops it from breaking.
I could probably use the stock bumper but cut out the part that connects to the top of the diff box. The place where it always breaks is at the part where the bumper connects to the top of the diff. Right now i run the rpm and am happy with it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyxcom View Post
You probably only really needed to taper the leading edge to keep it from hanging up.

I'm of the opinion that when racing, that's the worse thing you could do to the bottom of your chassis as all that skid plate is - is a friction brake every time it taps the track.
+1

I wouldn't want anything on the bottom only my chassis. I'll pay $90 every year for a new chassis instead. Thats why I deep 6'd the RPM garbage bumper.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
+1

I wouldn't want anything on the bottom only my chassis. I'll pay $90 every year for a new chassis instead. Thats why I deep 6'd the RPM garbage bumper.
I agree, should probably get new gear boxes and go back stock. Just gotta make sure i eon't strip the screws!
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I agree, should probably get new gear boxes and go back stock. Just gotta make sure i eon't strip the screws!
The geArboxes are garbage plastic and strip out like crazy. Try longer screws first. Luckily replacement is only $10 money but effort is like 1+ hours
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
The geArboxes are garbage plastic and strip out like crazy. Try longer screws first. Luckily replacement is only $10 money but effort is like 1+ hours
Those phillips screws i have on the rpm skid plate are 5/8 in and they have a nice snug fit on the skidplate. Just wondering if they'll go too far without the skidplate going directly into the gearbox. You think 2/8 of an inch will be too much when getting rid of the skid plate?
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:10 PM
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Holy Cow ---

2.3 million views, and 38k posts? I knew this truck was popular, but damn! I plan on getting one soon and was going to ask the "Must have" list of upgrades, but I have a feeling out of 38k posts, I should find my answer (unless of course someone wants to volunteer all the info up front )
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia View Post
Holy Cow ---

2.3 million views, and 38k posts? I knew this truck was popular, but damn! I plan on getting one soon and was going to ask the "Must have" list of upgrades, but I have a feeling out of 38k posts, I should find my answer (unless of course someone wants to volunteer all the info up front )
I'll do them in order of importance:

1. Carbon fiber shock towers (stockers bend easy)
2. Lightened oudrives at all 3 diff ( tekno makes a complete kit with front and rear driveshafts as well, better investment)
3. New tires depending on your track
(4.) sorry had to edit, HA pivot balls and rod ends.
4. New chassis (i like the bce, but all are good choices)
5. Tekno center diff driveshafts
6. Tlr racing spring sets front and rear
7. Kingheadz center diff mount and motor mount (stock motor mount works fine, just needs better screw)
That's about it for me.

Last edited by Rockthecatbox21; 08-16-2012 at 06:22 PM. Reason: forgot one
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I'll do them in order of importance:

1. Carbon fiber shock towers (stockers bend easy)
2. Lightened oudrives at all 3 diff ( tekno makes a complete kit with front and rear driveshafts as well, better investment)
3. New tires depending on your track
(4.) sorry had to edit, HA pivot balls and rod ends.
4. New chassis (i like the bce, but all are good choices)
5. Tekno center diff driveshafts
6. Tlr racing spring sets front and rear
7. Kingheadz center diff mount and motor mount (stock motor mount works fine, just needs better screw)
That's about it for me.

Haha, awesome . Looks like an expensive list.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia View Post
Haha, awesome . Looks like an expensive list.
Get the tekno m6 driveshaft kits for front and rear, losi hd lightened outdrives at the center diff, tekno center diff driveshafts and carbon towers and that is all you absolutely need.
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