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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-09-2012, 08:37 AM
  #38191  
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I've been using the Nanotech 6600s for about 8 months without a problem. What is your current limiter set to? Are you spinning the tires alot?

Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
So what batteries is everyone running in their scte?

Made a post a few pages back about my RX8 pro 4 4600 puffing batteries so I am looking for something that can handle the amp draw of this combo. My gens ace puff pretty easily and my turnigy nanotech 6600 65c are coming off slightly puffed also. Not a huge amount and they shrink back down but I dont trust the batteries when this is happening considering many people are saying a lipo battery should not puff at all, even after hard use, so I am curious what sort of success others are having in this vehicle with that combo and what batteries they are using.

I did order a revolectrix 6000 60c to give a go, considering they make big high end chargers and most of their product is geared toward high current draw helicopter applications, I figure these must surely hold up.....but curious to what others are using.

Also on the topic of batteries, I did pull one of the nanotechs apart to inspect the cells and they were perfectly flat, but the case itself you could see wasnt as flat as when I first got them. Does this indicate that maybe the cells aren't actually puffing? If so why does the case not appear as flat as the day they arrived?
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:39 AM
  #38192  
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I think you're right Chuck. The threads do get tight towards the bottom. I'm pretty sure I cranked them down when I installed them, but I used an L wrench last night just to make sure.

Originally Posted by chucko View Post
on the set screws for the tekno drive shafts. F/R.. if you look at it when your tightening things down, IN YOUR HAND you will notice that it gets tight even before it bottoms out on the ring and pinion shaft. so when you think you have it tight its not. you need to really use an L shaped allen and twist the shit out of it to get it to tighten, its made tight with a slightly tapered thread.. it starts to feel like it touching but its not. Hope this helps
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:55 PM
  #38193  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
I think you're right Chuck. The threads do get tight towards the bottom. I'm pretty sure I cranked them down when I installed them, but I used an L wrench last night just to make sure.
Hey Chris - glad you just posted. I was wondering if you had setup thoughts on, or have seen adjusted setups for those that now use your battery mount in reverse (so the the ESC sits forward on the chassis).

I did my own battery/ESC mod to reverse those two and the truck rear end needed attention. Previous setup was essentially what Dunford runs, but in the rear I went to silver spring/30 oil/shocks out in the arm. Also moved the collars down some to bring the ride height back up from the extra weight in the rear.

That seemed to work well for me, but was wondering what other setup changes you might use/have seen.

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:55 PM
  #38194  
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Default Ackerman Arm

In the process of replacing my steering with ST racing concepts steering rack set.

Question: The Ackerman arm, which holes do I bolt it to the inside holes or the outside holes on the steering rack?

What is the difference?

Right now using stock ackerman arm.

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffem62 View Post
In the process of replacing my steering with ST racing concepts steering rack set.

Question: The Ackerman arm, which holes do I bolt it to the inside holes or the outside holes on the steering rack?

What is the difference?

Right now using stock ackerman arm.

Thanks
You should have two arms, believe the box comes with the long arm mounted, which would then use the two outer holes. Short goes on the inner.

If you're not sure if you have the long or short ackerman, then mount it to the outer holes . Look at your steering arms, and if there's not in a parallel type setup, you used the wrong holes. Switch holes.
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:57 PM
  #38196  
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
take it apart all the way, check for any binding when putting it back together. Remember how (IF ANY shims are there) there is no way thats better then any other. and it helps with understanding how it goes..Make sure bearings are all good and have fun
Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
I know that this thread is impossible to search...

Check out my post .... here. and if you look forward and backward a little bit from that post number there are some text descriptions and different options as well.
'preciate the tips. sorry i missed those posts... that's what i was looking for.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:26 PM
  #38197  
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Perfect

Thanks for information, just what i was looking for.

My carbon fiber ackerman arms are still on back order. What is the difference in handling from the long arm to the short arm?

Originally Posted by goehm View Post
You should have two arms, believe the box comes with the long arm mounted, which would then use the two outer holes. Short goes on the inner.

If you're not sure if you have the long or short ackerman, then mount it to the outer holes . Look at your steering arms, and if there's not in a parallel type setup, you used the wrong holes. Switch holes.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffem62 View Post
Perfect

Thanks for information, just what i was looking for.

My carbon fiber ackerman arms are still on back order. What is the difference in handling from the long arm to the short arm?
Long arm normal operation in steering,, short arm Quicker response.
servo arm .. Just in case you need to know....mount you steering link to the inner best spot for better performance response.. outer equals slower Hope this helps
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:02 PM
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so where do you get them...I see the long on Losi's site and mine is a 810 converted so if it came with the truck i didnt it with my 810 but would be interested in playing around with them as i just got all my parts in and will be replacing the servo saver tube with the HA tube

Or is this both of them...
Drag link for both???


And here is all the new toys with the rear hubs installed and front and center HD outdrives on the truck already since i checked fitment for a few others having issues but maybe 1 day i'll get all this together

Last edited by TCCustoms; 08-09-2012 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:13 PM
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I just ordered my Teking RX8\Pro4 4600kv combo and was wondering... I only have 5000mah 40c lipos... will these be ok to run that combo?
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
servo arm .. Just in case you need to know....mount you steering link to the inner best spot for better performance response.. outer equals slower Hope this helps
Negative ghost rider.

Outer = faster.
Inner = slower.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
Or is this both of them...
Drag link for both???
That's both of them. I had the CF links, but just reverted back to the stock metal. A lot less play than the carbon - at least than my carbon that I've been running for a while.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mysupratoy94 View Post
I just ordered my Teking RX8\Pro4 4600kv combo and was wondering... I only have 5000mah 40c lipos... will these be ok to run that combo?
5000mah is probably a bit too low if you run 7+ minutes.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
5000mah is probably a bit too low if you run 7+ minutes.
Too low in the sense that i wont have much run time or too low to power the combo?
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mysupratoy94 View Post
Too low in the sense that i wont have much run time or too low to power the combo?
I've run 5000/40, 5300/35, and 6600/65 for batteries.
I don't find a performance difference in the 5000 and 6600 except in run time, since I have to crank the current limiter down anyway. The 5300 always ran warmer in the truck than the others and didn't seem to have quite as much power for short run up jumps.

The 5000 you mention should run just fine as long as you're current limit is down a bit like most have been doing. It just won't be a good choice if you have a race longer than 6 minutes or so, or you're running on a track where you're spinning tires a lot flat out.

For time reference, RX8/Pro4 4600/13t/CL @ 65% with the 6600s I get about:
14 minutes on a good indoor 10th scale track (NorCal Hobbies)
10-12 minutes on a somewhat technical, but large and flowing, 8th scale track (NorCal Hobbies)
8-9 minutes on a loose flat out style 8th scale track (DeltaRC)
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