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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-08-2012, 04:18 PM
  #38161  
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I used the stock shafts for over a year and never had one come loose. The setscrews were not loose. The point looked like about 75% of the cup tip was in contact with the pinion. I'm wondering if the setscrews were a little too soft and the points pounded out.

I've been active in RC since the early 80's. I'm 99.9% sure it wasn't an installation error.


Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I have the front tekno driveshaft and it's holding up quite well. Did you let the threadlock cure overnight? Mine held throughout a whole night of racing.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:14 PM
  #38162  
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Purchased a used SCTE, now I need to buy a pinion because they are Mod 1
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:18 PM
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on the set screws for the tekno drive shafts. F/R.. if you look at it when your tightening things down, IN YOUR HAND you will notice that it gets tight even before it bottoms out on the ring and pinion shaft. so when you think you have it tight its not. you need to really use an L shaped allen and twist the shit out of it to get it to tighten, its made tight with a slightly tapered thread.. it starts to feel like it touching but its not. Hope this helps
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1M
Purchased a used SCTE, now I need to buy a pinion because they are Mod 1
get 13 -- 14 -- 15--16 temps tell you up or down is size.. Hope this helps. Robinson makes the best i-m-o
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:23 PM
  #38165  
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Are they available in 1/8 and 5mm? I hope to get one from hobby shop tomorrow if not it will be a few days for an order.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1M
Are they available in 1/8 and 5mm? I hope to get one from hobby shop tomorrow if not it will be a few days for an order.
ofna makes some 1/8 mod 1 pinions. otherwise you can buy a bore reducer from rrp.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by gernaat
first attempt to swap from grease to diff oil. got the center done. for the rear and front, is there a preferred/quick way to get to those diffs? or is it more of a complete tear down for those?

thanks
take it apart all the way, check for any binding when putting it back together. Remember how (IF ANY shims are there) there is no way thats better then any other. and it helps with understanding how it goes..Make sure bearings are all good and have fun
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:56 PM
  #38168  
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Originally Posted by chucko
on the set screws for the tekno drive shafts. F/R.. if you look at it when your tightening things down, IN YOUR HAND you will notice that it gets tight even before it bottoms out on the ring and pinion shaft. so when you think you have it tight its not. you need to really use an L shaped allen and twist the shit out of it to get it to tighten, its made tight with a slightly tapered thread.. it starts to feel like it touching but its not. Hope this helps
Then i must have tightened the crap out of mine cuz it hasn't come loose and i cant see that happening anytime soon. Really like that tekno included the 2.5 setscrew head instead of that flimsy 2.0. Really lets you put some torque into tightening it. Plus the tips of my hudy drivers fit real well in them. At first i tried tightening them with a 3/32 and it felt like it stripped, luckily it didn't and it was me just using the wrong size. Put a 2.5 in it and it was a super snug fit (good fit, props to tekno).
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gernaat
first attempt to swap from grease to diff oil. got the center done. for the rear and front, is there a preferred/quick way to get to those diffs? or is it more of a complete tear down for those?

thanks
I know that this thread is impossible to search...

Check out my post here. and if you look forward and backward a little bit from that post number there are some text descriptions and different options as well.

Last edited by eddomak; 08-08-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by nazman01
i would bet the 80 amp esc wont handle the 4600. i had the 4600 with the hobbywing sct esc and it would shut it down, i think the motor is drawing to many amps. when i switched to a hobbywing motor prob went away. but either way 80amp is not enough for a beast of a motor like the tekin 4600
I dunno, I ran it hard twice tonight for 6 and 8 minutes. Never shut off or bogged out. Ill run it until i have a problem with it, then I'll switch it out.

Also, looked this up. The Pro4 4600kv motor at maximum burst is around 126-130 amps. Hobbywing ESC has a max burst of 380 amp.

Last edited by Biggie85; 08-08-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:25 PM
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So what batteries is everyone running in their scte?

Made a post a few pages back about my RX8 pro 4 4600 puffing batteries so I am looking for something that can handle the amp draw of this combo. My gens ace puff pretty easily and my turnigy nanotech 6600 65c are coming off slightly puffed also. Not a huge amount and they shrink back down but I dont trust the batteries when this is happening considering many people are saying a lipo battery should not puff at all, even after hard use, so I am curious what sort of success others are having in this vehicle with that combo and what batteries they are using.

I did order a revolectrix 6000 60c to give a go, considering they make big high end chargers and most of their product is geared toward high current draw helicopter applications, I figure these must surely hold up.....but curious to what others are using.

Also on the topic of batteries, I did pull one of the nanotechs apart to inspect the cells and they were perfectly flat, but the case itself you could see wasnt as flat as when I first got them. Does this indicate that maybe the cells aren't actually puffing? If so why does the case not appear as flat as the day they arrived?
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggie85
I dunno, I ran it hard twice tonight for 6 and 8 minutes. Never shut off or bogged out. Ill run it until i have a problem with it, then I'll switch it out.

Also, looked this up. The Pro4 4600kv motor at maximum burst is around 126-130 amps. Hobbywing ESC has a max burst of 380 amp.
Yeah don't worry about it. My friend ran the 80 amp in his sc10 4x4 and a tenshock sc401 4600 motor. Believe me the tenshock 4600 pulls just as many or more amps than a pro-4 motor. He ran it fine no issues.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:34 PM
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I know the 4 pole motors are awsome I use to run Tekin Rx8 4600 pro4. I'm getting back into hobby and running 4x4 again. What's some takes on maybe running Sc4x 4.5 so it's easier on batteries or perhaps a 4000kv run good?
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
So what batteries is everyone running in their scte?
I am using both Gens Ace 5000/50c and 5300/65c with a RX8/4600 and haven't puffed one of the 6 batteries I rotate between me and my sons XXX-SCT. And several times I have run them to cutoff, although I try not to make it a habit as my motor is scorching hot by then.
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
I just took a drill to the chassis and put lots of holes in it to lighten it. I managed to get down to about 4 lbs after drilling almost every part. It is really hard to drill out the center of drive shafts, getting straight enough of a shot is just annoying.
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.

After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
Pics or it never happened Dave!!
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