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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-08-2012, 09:09 AM
  #38146  
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rock / chuck. thanks very much for your thoughts/help. very much appreciated. will get those screws.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:56 AM
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Hey guys, another quick question. I put 40wt all the way around the vehicle. I'm using stock springs. It seems good in the front. But a little bouncy in the rear. I'm gonna be running on an open, mostly dirt track ( barely any clay) with a medium table top and a couple big singles. It's a 5th scale track that hasn't yet been modeled for 8th/10th scale off-road. What would be an ideal wt?

Thank you in advance.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggie85
Hey guys, another quick question. I put 40wt all the way around the vehicle. I'm using stock springs. It seems good in the front. But a little bouncy in the rear. I'm gonna be running on an open, mostly dirt track ( barely any clay) with a medium table top and a couple big singles. It's a 5th scale track that hasn't yet been modeled for 8th/10th scale off-road. What would be an ideal wt?

Thank you in advance.
40 seems like a lot unless it is really hot where you are running. We typically are in the 27.5/30 wt range but with hot summer temps out door we will bump that up 5-7.5wt so you may not be too far off. Is it bouncy in the rough stuff or landings.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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I just took a drill to the chassis and put lots of holes in it to lighten it. I managed to get down to about 4 lbs after drilling almost every part. It is really hard to drill out the center of drive shafts, getting straight enough of a shot is just annoying.
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.

After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
Im going to try this trick for the front top plate screws. The two screws closest to the shock tower always seem to strip out on me...
Swap them out for the ones that go strait into the rear bumper from behind,its a perfect swap!!!Cheers!
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
I just took a drill to the chassis and put lots of holes in it to lighten it. I managed to get down to about 4 lbs after drilling almost every part. It is really hard to drill out the center of drive shafts, getting straight enough of a shot is just annoying.
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.

After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
WTF???????????
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
40 seems like a lot unless it is really hot where you are running. We typically are in the 27.5/30 wt range but with hot summer temps out door we will bump that up 5-7.5wt so you may not be too far off. Is it bouncy in the rough stuff or landings.
Yes, the rear tends to bounce a bit in rougher areas and also on landing. Nothing crazy just a little bothersome. I will use 30 or 35wt before my club race this weekend. Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:08 PM
  #38153  
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Last race my car was almost perfect, but in the first 2-3 laps of all three mains the rear was stepping out both on braking and acceleration; after that it settled down nicely but couldn't catch the leader.
What could have caused it?
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
I just took a drill to the chassis and put lots of holes in it to lighten it. I managed to get down to about 4 lbs after drilling almost every part. It is really hard to drill out the center of drive shafts, getting straight enough of a shot is just annoying.
Then I got to figuring that if I just need to remove material, I should make parts thinner too. So I got out a file and took the chassis to half thickness, I even got to smooth out the bottom from all the 8th scale rocks I'd been hitting.

After also cutting out holes for most of the body, I was still able to put on a big wing in the back and some air splitters up front to come in at just under 4lbs.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part, carbon fibre pistons. Weight savings and more responsiveness due to meshing with the oil and emulsifying the carbon into the silicon to make the oil even lighter too!
Helium filled shocks let you remove the piston all together and then use only a single e-clip to keep the piston in the shock body.

(guys - he's joking)
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:43 PM
  #38155  
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Originally Posted by goehm
Helium filled shocks let you remove the piston all together and then use only a single e-clip to keep the piston in the shock body.
What if I use Xenon instead to better match the body paint scheme?
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:50 PM
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The first time I ran my truck with the Tekno drive shafts the rear shaft fell out of the truck completely. I cleaned it up, reapplied thread lock and tightened the crap out of it and it has been fine since.

Last Friday I went to the track and ran a couple packs. They had soaked the track right before I got there and it was a mud bog. My body and tires were picking up tons of mud. After the first tun I noticed that my motor was hot so I geared down one tooth. After the second pack it was still hot so I geared down another tooth. It was still running hot so I figured I was just spinning the tires too much. Last night I decided to completely clean the truck. While I was working on it I found that the front shaft had worked itself 90% of the way off the pinion. It was rubbing on the front chassis brace which is probably the only reason it didn't fall off completely. Again, cleaned it up, reapplied thread lock, cranked it WAY down. Hopefully that is the last time it happens.



Originally Posted by Stevemopa
Hey guys, great thread. Has anyone else had a problem popping the rear driveshaft(Tekno front and rear)? This has happened to me twice in the past couple weeks and set screw is still there (blue locktite). I'm running a TLR chassis w/torque tube. I noticed a little ring gear wear last time I had the rear diff apart and wonder if a little slop in there is the culprit. Thanks.

Steve
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:17 PM
  #38157  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
The first time I ran my truck with the Tekno drive shafts the rear shaft fell out of the truck completely. I cleaned it up, reapplied thread lock and tightened the crap out of it and it has been fine since.

Last Friday I went to the track and ran a couple packs. They had soaked the track right before I got there and it was a mud bog. My body and tires were picking up tons of mud. After the first tun I noticed that my motor was hot so I geared down one tooth. After the second pack it was still hot so I geared down another tooth. It was still running hot so I figured I was just spinning the tires too much. Last night I decided to completely clean the truck. While I was working on it I found that the front shaft had worked itself 90% of the way off the pinion. It was rubbing on the front chassis brace which is probably the only reason it didn't fall off completely. Again, cleaned it up, reapplied thread lock, cranked it WAY down. Hopefully that is the last time it happens.
I have the front tekno driveshaft and it's holding up quite well. Did you let the threadlock cure overnight? Mine held throughout a whole night of racing.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:24 PM
  #38158  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I have the front tekno driveshaft and it's holding up quite well. Did you let the threadlock cure overnight? Mine held throughout a whole night of racing.
I also had the front loosen up on me.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:51 PM
  #38159  
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first attempt to swap from grease to diff oil. got the center done. for the rear and front, is there a preferred/quick way to get to those diffs? or is it more of a complete tear down for those?

thanks
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggie85
Hey guys, I just received my SCTE roller today, tell me what you guys think of the electronics I have to get this truck going. don't be too rough if this isn't "ideal". (Note: I'm new to off-road and SC)

Servo: Spektrum 6040
ESC: Hobbywing Xerun 80amp ESC
Motor: Tekin Pro4 4600kv
Lipo: Orion 5000mah 90c 2s

I've been told this will be fairly competitive.

Thanks!
i would bet the 80 amp esc wont handle the 4600. i had the 4600 with the hobbywing sct esc and it would shut it down, i think the motor is drawing to many amps. when i switched to a hobbywing motor prob went away. but either way 80amp is not enough for a beast of a motor like the tekin 4600
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