kcobra

iTrader: (11)

Ran the Hobbywing SCT-Pro/Tenshock 5200 kv sensored motor combo today at the race track. Very impressive combo. Had a lot of comments from people about how good the power looked. They really perked up when I told them I paid $140 for the combo!

KingHobbies

Typo, it will do 12-24. Sorry

goehm

iTrader: (45)

What glue? CA? If so, I personally think that sets too fast. I like either JB Weld 2 part epoxy (love that stuff, that's right up there with duct tape and zip ties) or RTV. Both set a lot slower. And while you cannot compress them - you can press the excess out of the area and wipe it clean to have a super fit. Tight, no leaks.

Really, really hard to do that with CA.

zJatoRad

iTrader: (38)

Hey guys need a little help here, getting a little frustrated. My problem is that I can't keep the temps down in my motor, currently running the Novak Havoc Pro SC + LRP X12L 5.5 motor, I had the novak 4.5 hv but it went out due to heat issues, I just installed the LRP and same deal, same high temps as the novak.

I started having these kind of problems with my electronics as soon as I moved to the SCTE, I had the novak setup for a complete year in a Hyper 10sc and not a single time the motor overheated. I bought the SCTE in May and I just can't figure it out, I swapped pinion gears ranging from 12 up to 15 with no effect whatsoever, always running at around 190-210, I tried different heat sinks, fans and nothing seems to help at all.

Again, problem started when I switched to Losi, it's the race roller and it's completely stock.

Any advice and suggestions are welcome, thanks!

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Maybe a tear down and see if the drive line is binding somewhere?

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

For gluing the diff inserts, I use CA. I have a bottle of CA that came with a brush instead of a squirt tube, and I use that to brush the inside of the cylinder, then just push it all the way in from inside. Works perfect every time and is easy.

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Well it is nice that kingheadZ has a new motor mount, i think i fixed my problem with the old one. Did what you guys and some local racers suggested and trashed the button head screw on my stock motor mount and replaced it with a socket head type screw with a washer underneath. Just the fact that it has a 3/32 head on it makes getting the torque to tighten with stripping it a lot easier. Held strong throughout the heats and in both mains. When i get some spending money i'll pick up the kingheadz motor mount and center diff mount. Thanks for your help guys!!!!

zJatoRad

iTrader: (38)

Thing is that this has been going on since I bought the truck (yes, brand new truck) =(, that's basically how I went through the novak motor.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

The difference is the weight of the two trucks. My jammin scrt10 was right around the weight of your hyper. I'm guessing 5.5lbs RTR on the track. The SCTE is 6.75lbs without any lightening.

zJatoRad

iTrader: (38)

So do you think going all carbon will help? I've also seen the FTW fan thingy and looks interesting.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

TBH to answer your question my preference would be to go higher voltage (think 4s battery, around 2700mah batts) and lower kv motors (right around 2000kv motors). That system would run cold all day long. BUT we are limited by rules so with a 2s system everyone recommends the pro4 with RX8.

dmorash

im having problems with the rear alum hub. it seems the hinge pin dont fit?

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Push it, push it real good.

Try making sure your holes line up and if that doesnt work might drill it out a tiny bit to make em fit. Also try twisting them clockwise when pushing them in. (do that first before drilling)

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Salt N Pepa's Heeaaa.

Sorry I couldn't resist. Probably over all of you youngsters heads.

dmorash

ya first i thought it was that my pins were bent so i bought new ones still no fit i oiled up the pin and hub ans still only get the pin in half way