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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-04-2012, 06:53 AM
  #37966  
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Here is what I do to get the right gear mesh on a diff that is slightly to tight. Take all of the screws down until they are just barely starting to get snug. Where there is about 1/4-1/2 turn left in all of them before they are tight. Check the action on the diff. If it is good then run them all down another 1/8th of a turn and check again. Do this until the gears bind a little and then back off a little on all of the screws. If they are to loose to keep the diff from leaking at the gasket after doing this then you need an extra gasket. If not, then put them in and forget about it. Blue lock tight might be your friend when doing it this way.

This type of thing is strait out of the full scale auto world. When ever a gasket is present, always gradually tighten all fasteners to form a good seal.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:30 AM
  #37967  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
LMAO......

HOW ABOUT THIS IS ANYONE DOING ANY TUNING OUTSIDE OF THE TEAM SETUPS AND HAVING SUCCESS AT IT?

Great topic to share ideas.....
I have been. I like to try stuff that no one else is talking about. The only thing holding my truck back right now is the weight of my overly shoe goo repaired body. It is causing body roll on high speed turns. Probably because it weighs .8 lbs instead of .5 like it is supposed to. I did not realize how heavy it had gotten until I weighed it the other day. There is a new one on the way. Here is what I have got going right now.

FRONT END
  • 28mm ride height (body off)
  • Two stage RCShox pistons drilled to 1.1mm/1.4mm compression/rebound.
  • Black springs from spring tuning kit.
  • 35wt. Associated oil
  • Top middle, bottom outside shock mounting locations
  • Bumpsteer up
  • Thickest sway bar
  • -2 degrees camber
  • 2 degrees toe out
  • .5 hinge pin holder inserts installed in back holder decreasing the caster .5
    degrees. (off power steering to compensate for the 7k front diff fluid)
  • 7k front diff fluid.
  • 7 grams added to front of chassis behind the diff.
  • MIDDLE DIFF 5K

REAR END
  • 28mm ride height (body off)
  • RCShox two stage pistons drilled 1.2/1.4 compression/rebound
  • Orange Springs
  • 30 wt. Associated oil
  • Outside top, middle bottom shock mounting locations
  • Upper hole on shock tower tie rod mounting location
  • Outside hole on rear hubs mounting location
  • 3 Degrees anti squat
  • 3 Degrees rear toe in
  • -2 degrees camber
  • Middle thickness sway bar
  • 3k rear diff fluid
  • 14 grams added to rear chassis in front of diff

Other than that, I have got lunsford titanium tie rods, all aluminum lock nuts, Jammin chassis, esc mounted directly to chassis, and that is about it.

last week I ran the rear tie rod shock tower mounting location in the bottom hole. I did this because this will cause the toe in to increase when the suspension is compressed during turns. I was going for more rotation. I worked to well. It actually caused the car to be a little twitchy in the blue groove. Caused a few bobbles when I was owning the B main. This is called rear steer. It is like bump steer on the front of the car. I do not recommend it.

I race at springs, so you can hit me up the next time you are there on practice or race day. I am the guy with the dark gray Cobra Mustang.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:38 AM
  #37968  
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Originally Posted by nitsuj
I just a Trackstar 2650kv 6 pole motor. And am completely new to motors of this size, (specifically very high torque & low RPM).

I have it geared 13t with the stock spur (40t?). It got to 140f which I understand is quite low, but that was just after 5 minutes of light running.

One thing I noticed with this motor is it would warm up really easily just spinning "freely" (not in the truck). So is it normal for motors of this size to warm up easily? and get to 140f even though the motor isn't pulling allot of watts?

And really strange is with the motor out of the truck it would cog when I applied full "throttle". Is that because it's a 6 pole? I think I heard that higher pole motors don't 'like" high RPM. So is that why it cogs at higher RPM?

I tried changing the ESC timing from low all the way to very high. Normal timing seemed to cause the least amount of cogging.

Thanks for any advice.
NEVER FREE REV A BRUSHLESS MOTOR. too low of gearing will cause heat too.unless you are running a 3s setup, 13 t is too low. Imo cogging is 90% a battery (too weak) issue.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:23 AM
  #37969  
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I dont know about all this rebuild stuff.. but I can say this. from experimenting . just for kicks and grins I purchased 4 diffs. went home sanded the face with 600 wet and dry sandpaper in a small figure 8 just enough to clean it so it would seal right.. my mistake. DONT sand them. that 1000's of a dusting can cause bind. I then tried to glue the insets BAD advise from any one that thinks it a joke to mess with people.. DONT take the inserts out and glue them. you cant compress glue .. take the new diffs glue the inserts when installed. around the edge put a light coating and let it flow in to the gap. let it dry over nite. with out oil put it together and try to see if it turns with out binding. if it does cool if it don't YOU GOT a diff thats out of size.. YES they make them in a mold they are not perfect like a machined metal part.. there plastic so they are off so much you might have to use two gaskets to get them to rotate with out feeling like there a rechet wrench. do your self a favor don't glue them and then try to press the inserts in.. if all else fails smack em with a hammer to seat them. you cant compress glue. thats dried behind in the insert..
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:48 AM
  #37970  
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I do hope Ryan comes on here and gives us good news about this "new" part that "we all will want". He's been kind of quiet on here regarding updates about it.

I do agree with the diff issues. I have 6 other cars from various brands and never have diff issues like I do with the SCTE. I just think the tolerances are too tight. If there is the slightest difference in anything (molding, insert not seated all the way, block not pushed all the way in) then it locks up. And even when everything comes together correctly they are still not as smooth as my other cars.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:50 AM
  #37971  
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I found it very easy to glue the inserts by seating them in and then gluing them from the outside with thin super glue. works great that way.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:04 AM
  #37972  
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question
what is the stock springs that come w/ this truck, and rates? my truck has the black springs that have no other color codes on them so i am just thinking they are the blacks (med) all around, but the maunal says gold (hard) fronts w/ the blacks (med) rear.

Just want to be sure before i start messing around w/ spring combos.

Want i think i want to run is black fronts w/ orange rears, on a clay surface, indoor.

Thanks for any help
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:38 AM
  #37973  
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Originally Posted by Bigz84
question
what is the stock springs that come w/ this truck, and rates? my truck has the black springs that have no other color codes on them so i am just thinking they are the blacks (med) all around, but the maunal says gold (hard) fronts w/ the blacks (med) rear.

Just want to be sure before i start messing around w/ spring combos.

Want i think i want to run is black fronts w/ orange rears, on a clay surface, indoor.

Thanks for any help
Stock spring rates Silver/Black/Gold
The fronts are 3.6, 3.9, 4.3
The rears are 3.0, 3.3, 3.6

Another option is to use the sc10 4x4 option springs. They give you a wider range of rates.
Front: 3.5,3.9,4.3,4.8
Rear: 2.5,2.8,3.1,3.4

Last edited by rcgod; 08-04-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:49 AM
  #37974  
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Originally Posted by dethklok151
NEVER FREE REV A BRUSHLESS MOTOR. too low of gearing will cause heat too.unless you are running a 3s setup, 13 t is too low. Imo cogging is 90% a battery (too weak) issue.
Thanks for the info, I'll be sure not to "free rev" the motor again. I am using 3s, but I'll try out some other pinion sizes, like 14-16 and see how that goes.

When I was running it one time I just went full throttle right off the line and it got to speed really fast. To say it different maybe with a higher tooth pinion I won't go WoT often and that maybe easier on the motor.

The batts are 3s 5a/h 35c continuous. The watts they can provide isn't to far off from the motors max watt draw.

But the ESC I am using is just a cheapy 120 amp HK one, so thought maybe it may have caused the free rev cogging.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:56 AM
  #37975  
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Originally Posted by chucko
I dont know about all this rebuild stuff.. but I can say this. from experimenting . just for kicks and grins I purchased 4 diffs. went home sanded the face with 600 wet and dry sandpaper in a small figure 8 just enough to clean it so it would seal right.. my mistake. DONT sand them. that 1000's of a dusting can cause bind. I then tried to glue the insets BAD advise from any one that thinks it a joke to mess with people.. DONT take the inserts out and glue them. you cant compress glue .. take the new diffs glue the inserts when installed. around the edge put a light coating and let it flow in to the gap. let it dry over nite. with out oil put it together and try to see if it turns with out binding. if it does cool if it don't YOU GOT a diff thats out of size.. YES they make them in a mold they are not perfect like a machined metal part.. there plastic so they are off so much you might have to use two gaskets to get them to rotate with out feeling like there a rechet wrench. do your self a favor don't glue them and then try to press the inserts in.. if all else fails smack em with a hammer to seat them. you cant compress glue. thats dried behind in the insert..
I do lightly sand the tops of my diffs and never had an issue before. Glueing inserts in. If you use a RTV you have a lot longer working time to get them seated properly. If you are using CA get the inserts started and lined up and then put some CA on the diff and press the inserts making sure they are fully seated. I think it is much harder to do with CA due to the 10-15 seconds you have for working time.

Originally Posted by timannnn6
I do hope Ryan comes on here and gives us good news about this "new" part that "we all will want". He's been kind of quiet on here regarding updates about it.

I do agree with the diff issues. I have 6 other cars from various brands and never have diff issues like I do with the SCTE. I just think the tolerances are too tight. If there is the slightest difference in anything (molding, insert not seated all the way, block not pushed all the way in) then it locks up. And even when everything comes together correctly they are still not as smooth as my other cars.
Last I heard still working on messaging the new part. Created a slight delay.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:34 PM
  #37976  
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ok, got my tuning kit, sold the parts i wasnt using for those PM'ing me, they are now gone! Hopefully my new chassis and KH center dual bearing mount will be coming tues and hopefully get all the new parts installed through the week.

Been busy making a bedroom into a master bath and i can do updates no problem but starting from scratch PLUS replacing all the old cast piping with pvc and updating throughout has kept me away from my truck but tile is down and wife wants to do the grouting and then the cabinets and fixtures go in then all the new water lines and then we are finally done...1.5 years later
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:41 PM
  #37977  
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb
I have been. I like to try stuff that no one else is talking about. The only thing holding my truck back right now is the weight of my overly shoe goo repaired body. It is causing body roll on high speed turns. Probably because it weighs .8 lbs instead of .5 like it is supposed to. I did not realize how heavy it had gotten until I weighed it the other day. There is a new one on the way. Here is what I have got going right now.

FRONT END
  • 28mm ride height (body off)
  • Two stage RCShox pistons drilled to 1.1mm/1.4mm compression/rebound.
  • Black springs from spring tuning kit.
  • 35wt. Associated oil
  • Top middle, bottom outside shock mounting locations
  • Bumpsteer up
  • Thickest sway bar
  • -2 degrees camber
  • 2 degrees toe out
  • .5 hinge pin holder inserts installed in back holder decreasing the caster .5
    degrees. (off power steering to compensate for the 7k front diff fluid)
  • 7k front diff fluid.
  • 7 grams added to front of chassis behind the diff.
  • MIDDLE DIFF 5K

REAR END
  • 28mm ride height (body off)
  • RCShox two stage pistons drilled 1.2/1.4 compression/rebound
  • Orange Springs
  • 30 wt. Associated oil
  • Outside top, middle bottom shock mounting locations
  • Upper hole on shock tower tie rod mounting location
  • Outside hole on rear hubs mounting location
  • 3 Degrees anti squat
  • 3 Degrees rear toe in
  • -2 degrees camber
  • Middle thickness sway bar
  • 3k rear diff fluid
  • 14 grams added to rear chassis in front of diff

Other than that, I have got lunsford titanium tie rods, all aluminum lock nuts, Jammin chassis, esc mounted directly to chassis, and that is about it.

last week I ran the rear tie rod shock tower mounting location in the bottom hole. I did this because this will cause the toe in to increase when the suspension is compressed during turns. I was going for more rotation. I worked to well. It actually caused the car to be a little twitchy in the blue groove. Caused a few bobbles when I was owning the B main. This is called rear steer. It is like bump steer on the front of the car. I do not recommend it.

I race at springs, so you can hit me up the next time you are there on practice or race day. I am the guy with the dark gray Cobra Mustang.
Great heads up going to try a couple of things you got going on
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:08 PM
  #37978  
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Default King Headz released TEN-SCTE Motor Mount with Dual Bearings

King Headz just released their TEN-SCTE Motor Mount with Dual Bearings.
This motor mount has two 12x18 bearing incorporated into it to virtually eliminate the out drive wobble. This lets the rear drive shaft run true and smooth. The mount also uses a larger motor adjusting screw (6-32). The slot for adjusting to motor has been increased in length to accommodate pinions from 12-24 teeth. There is also a third mounting hole in the bottom that is used on the King Headz Chassis.

http://www.kingheads.com/product_info.php?products_id=946



Last edited by KingHobbies; 08-04-2012 at 07:11 PM. Reason: typo on the pinion sizes 12-24 not 13-24
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:18 PM
  #37979  
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Originally Posted by KingHobbies
King Headz just released their TEN-SCTE Motor Mount with Dual Bearings.
This motor mount has two 12x18 bearing incorporated into it to virtually eliminate the out drive wobble. This lets the rear drive shaft run true and smooth. The mount also uses a larger motor adjusting screw (6-32). The slot for adjusting to motor has been increased in length to accommodate pinions from 13-24 teeth. There is also a third mounting hole in the bottom that is used on the King Headz Chassis.

http://www.kingheads.com/product_info.php?products_id=946


looks nice. just wish it allowed at least a 12T. 13T minimum seems a bit limiting...
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:37 PM
  #37980  
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The website description says 12-24, wonder which one is correct.
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