Originally Posted by USMC STONE

Of course the Losi sponsored will say its race able box stock, and it is. BUT:

1-I use Hudy tools with new tips or ground down to unused section of tips. The stock screws are very soft compared to let's say X-RAY.
2-The stock chassis and shock towers must be made of "limpanium" I can bend by hand. How many people have bent the front kick up section of chassis or rear shock tower? A whole lot.
3- I purchased 3 of first batch so I went thru the whole diff pin issue but the diff plastics were stripped and leaked grease from factory. They may be solved now like the diff pins.

If you really want the best version of this truck do not buy it from Losi.
1. Buy aftermarket chassis of your choice
2. Get carbon towers from Losi, SNR or other well know maker. The aftermarket Losi aluminum towers are just as week as stock.
3. Get the entire Tekno drivetrain and don't worry about anything.
4. Get most of the rest for cheap on eBay like arms (although RPM makes some now), steering and camber links, aftermarket body.
You can build a race version like this for hardly any more than a stock Losi and not have to worry about the issues that have plagued the original.

Originally Posted by 8ight-e

A few must haves for any losi scte, new in box losi lightened flex chassis, and a new in box hobbywing sct pro w/ 4000kv 4-pole. Take a peek.. here in the sale area.

Originally Posted by myl3s91

OKAY, I HATE SCTE DIFFS. every time i rebuild a diff sometimes they work, sometimes they lock up. LOSI please come out with a new design where us as your customers dont have to spend time make shifting them to work with fluid. I rebuild my diffs in a brand new truck, some when smooth, but the front was locking up, today i went out and bought a new housing thinking it might have been the way i glued the inserts. So i rebuilt is again, today, when the diff is tightened down it still locks up. The diffs are brand new. I backed off the screws a little and it seems OK. Is it normal for a new diff to be a little stiffer and not as smooth as one that is a little older?

Originally Posted by myl3s91

OKAY, I HATE SCTE DIFFS. every time i rebuild a diff sometimes they work, sometimes they lock up. LOSI please come out with a new design where us as your customers dont have to spend time make shifting them to work with fluid. I rebuild my diffs in a brand new truck, some when smooth, but the front was locking up, today i went out and bought a new housing thinking it might have been the way i glued the inserts. So i rebuilt is again, today, when the diff is tightened down it still locks up. The diffs are brand new. I backed off the screws a little and it seems OK. Is it normal for a new diff to be a little stiffer and not as smooth as one that is a little older?

Originally Posted by Khwilliams

Yes

Originally Posted by Briguy

I have had one that I needed to double up on diff gaskets so the gears don`t get to tight .

Originally Posted by myl3s91

OKAY, I HATE SCTE DIFFS. every time i rebuild a diff sometimes they work, sometimes they lock up. LOSI please come out with a new design where us as your customers dont have to spend time make shifting them to work with fluid. I rebuild my diffs in a brand new truck, some when smooth, but the front was locking up, today i went out and bought a new housing thinking it might have been the way i glued the inserts. So i rebuilt is again, today, when the diff is tightened down it still locks up. The diffs are brand new. I backed off the screws a little and it seems OK. Is it normal for a new diff to be a little stiffer and not as smooth as one that is a little older?

Originally Posted by Casper

With the new gears it is critical you get the "squares" set down in the diffs. I use a allen wrench to push down to make sure the blocks are fully seated into the housing. If you do that the diffs should always come out smooth. I found this out when I built all new diffs with the new gears. One was smooth as could be the other two locked up until I realized the square blocks were not fully seated.

Originally Posted by Casper

With the new gears it is critical you get the "squares" set down in the diffs. I use a allen wrench to push down to make sure the blocks are fully seated into the housing. If you do that the diffs should always come out smooth. I found this out when I built all new diffs with the new gears. One was smooth as could be the other two locked up until I realized the square blocks were not fully seated.

Originally Posted by myl3s91

Thats how I built the diffs, and I did it more then once, i used an allen wrench to push the square blocks, so they fully seat. But they still seemed rather tight, and if I fully snugged up the screw they'd be at the locking point.. I have rebuilt the diffs in my other scte over a dozen times with no issues. But these are brand new diffs, I doubled up the gasget on the front and rear and they are as smooth as butter now. The center was fine, can doubling up the gasget cause any issues? Im thinking ill run them with the doubled up gasgets for a while then rebuild and hope that they will break in and be smoother with 1 gasget.. Thanks for the feed back any info helps!!!

Originally Posted by thecman26

+1



You have to double check everything if it is too tight. Maybe the inserts in the diff case aren't seated all the way? That might make it tight too. The stock diffs in my truck are over a year old since the last maintenence and are still smoothe. The inserts are a bit prblematic with the stock diffs but overall I won't be complaining anytime soon. They can leak but a TINY bit of rtv on the gasket and problem is fixed. I personally Ca'd my inserts into the case, you have to press them in pretty hard till they kinda pop in place. That is easier said than done though... Good luck you will get it.

Also break the diffs in with a cordless drill and half an old dog bone ya got layin around afer you get them together, helps seat everything properly.