Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
I've just got an SCTE and have a few questions.
First I think I may have ordered too strong of a motor. 41mm*69mm 6 pole.
It's 2650kv and I got some 3s batteries for it.
The only Mod1 pinion I could get was a 13t. Any ideas if that will be sufficient for "playing around"?
Next question is about diff fluid. Are "tighter" diffs better for loose stuff like sand? I put some real heavy fluid in the front & centre and left the rear with the stock grease. But after reading that most use between 3k & 7k I feel like mine fluid is WAY TOO thick...50k. (i.e. "Diff-lock")
Still waiting (anxiously) for the motor/batts/pinion to arrive so haven't had a chance to try it out.
First I think I may have ordered too strong of a motor. 41mm*69mm 6 pole.
It's 2650kv and I got some 3s batteries for it.
The only Mod1 pinion I could get was a 13t. Any ideas if that will be sufficient for "playing around"?
Next question is about diff fluid. Are "tighter" diffs better for loose stuff like sand? I put some real heavy fluid in the front & centre and left the rear with the stock grease. But after reading that most use between 3k & 7k I feel like mine fluid is WAY TOO thick...50k. (i.e. "Diff-lock")
Still waiting (anxiously) for the motor/batts/pinion to arrive so haven't had a chance to try it out.
For a basher 2560Kv and 3s is a great sweet spot imo.
Bear in mind you will need to trim some of the plastic parts, loosen one of the side screws on the mud guards and probably have to mount the motor with the diff out.
Tech Initiate
No paddles, I do have some proline Dirt Paws that I may throw on for s-hits 'n giggles. Unfortunately the wheel offset for those is literally opposite of the stock wheels. Actually I wanna see too now..."pictures loading"....
hmmm not as bad as I thought, given the offset though I'd be a little shy driving it (cracking the wheels 'cause of the outside leverage when hitting the odd stone in the sand) Body rub looks like it'd be okay, these tires are about 2/3 inch less diameter than stockers.
BOO too the no pics after x number of posts....
Sorry if it's too many pics, or are too big. <-moot now
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Before I got my 4600Kv motor this is what I was running (well a 2560Kv Trackstar) from my Hyper 7. It was wicked fast on 3s and just nuts on 4s. I ran it on a 17T pinion and it came off warm after a 25 minute bashing session (on a single 5000MAh 3s 30c LiPo!). I really enjoyed it on 3s and almost thinking of switching back. The 4600Kv just doesn't have that same torque and power band. But I now have NanoTech 6600MAhs and don't want to get rid of them after a few runs.
For a basher 2560Kv and 3s is a great sweet spot imo.
Bear in mind you will need to trim some of the plastic parts, loosen one of the side screws on the mud guards and probably have to mount the motor with the diff out.
For a basher 2560Kv and 3s is a great sweet spot imo.
Bear in mind you will need to trim some of the plastic parts, loosen one of the side screws on the mud guards and probably have to mount the motor with the diff out.
Tech Initiate
Before I got my 4600Kv motor this is what I was running (well a 2560Kv Trackstar) from my Hyper 7. It was wicked fast on 3s and just nuts on 4s. I ran it on a 17T pinion and it came off warm after a 25 minute bashing session (on a single 5000MAh 3s 30c LiPo!). I really enjoyed it on 3s and almost thinking of switching back. The 4600Kv just doesn't have that same torque and power band. But I now have NanoTech 6600MAhs and don't want to get rid of them after a few runs.
For a basher 2560Kv and 3s is a great sweet spot imo.
Bear in mind you will need to trim some of the plastic parts, loosen one of the side screws on the mud guards and probably have to mount the motor with the diff out.
For a basher 2560Kv and 3s is a great sweet spot imo.
Bear in mind you will need to trim some of the plastic parts, loosen one of the side screws on the mud guards and probably have to mount the motor with the diff out.
Yea it's the trackstar one like yours. So I should maybe spring for a 15-18 pinion set it sounds like.
How kind was the motor to those lipos? mine are the same only 35c ("nano-tech turnigys").
Tech Initiate
Just outta curiosity and in effort to have one less to go, how many posts until I can post pictures?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (47)
I second this as I'm in the same position, need to do some shock rebuilding and would like to replace the o rings as well.
I know exactly what you mean. I used to run a castle 2400 sct motor and it was awesome. The torque was unbelievable on 3s. I then switched to a tenshock sc401 4600 and the power is great but it just doesn't have that torquey "feel". I really think if there wasn't a 2s limit i'd still be running that motor.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Last edited by Dakar Dad; 07-25-2012 at 12:34 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
I think the second item should be the rpm skid plate for the scte. I run both the rpm rear skid plate and front bumper and they are very durable. The front bumper needs some trimming to keep it from hanging up on the front of rhe body. Go ahead and buy some extra 8/32 x 5/8 screws for the rear skid plate to keep from stripping out the rear gearbox.
Punch control is a restraining value, so is actually "reversed" ie 100% control = a lot of restricting the punch (and therefore load on your system). 0% = no restriction (and therefore full load).
Quick copy and paste from the "?" on the CastleLink software:
100%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad, very good setting for "easy on parts" style bashing.
90%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad
80%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on low traction surfaces and offroad
75%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
70%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
60%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
50%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med traction surfaces and offroad
40%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces
30%
Med/Low accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces
25%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
20%
Low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces
10%
Very low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces
0%, Disabled
No accelleration limiting. The accelleration will be 100% determined by thr capability of your battery pack to flow power and maintain voltage.
Quick copy and paste from the "?" on the CastleLink software:
100%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad, very good setting for "easy on parts" style bashing.
90%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad
80%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on low traction surfaces and offroad
75%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
70%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
60%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
50%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med traction surfaces and offroad
40%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces
30%
Med/Low accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces
25%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad
20%
Low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces
10%
Very low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces
0%, Disabled
No accelleration limiting. The accelleration will be 100% determined by thr capability of your battery pack to flow power and maintain voltage.
MMP SCT 2400kv 3s 35C 17T
Track is like here.
Ran about 19/20' with throttle EPA to 80%
Timing at default on ESC 10
Punch control at 100%
Motor came out hot (will temp it next time but not worrying) as I was really pushing it (lots of wheel spinning as it is a brand new track in various ways).
The only HUGE difference is I had set the dead band on the ESC on a very small value 0.0500s instead of 0.1000 as default >>> Much more control on start up, more punch in the mid RPM (clearing small triples not a problem). I had also smoothed the throttle curve in the soft. With the previous dead band set at 0.1000 it felt like I had no real control over how the truck would act at startup and on jumps.
All in all pretty amazed at how much a little tweak can really change the way the truck handled.
So here is my question(eventually... Sorry for all the blabla but really felt I actually had a whole better car today... A happy dude ;-)
What would change in the actual truck behavior if I was to change from timing 10 to 0 and "replace" with punch control from 100% to 80%?
Would the whole ESC / motor / battery get hotter?
Am I better off tweaking timing or punch control?
What is the actual difference between punch control and timing? I do get both are relating to "over clocking" the whole system but I do not see the difference.
Finally, would I get the same punch going from to a 17T to 19T?
I do appreciate any advice or tips on this set up as I am liking it. We have no class restriction on this track and others around.
I also have a 3800kv which I have had not much time to see what the little can has in it... Keep reading good stuff about it tough.
Enjoy the day,
I did,
V
Tech Apprentice
Big Tires?
Hey guys I am wondering what are the biggest tires i can fit on the SCTE?
I want it to be able to run in the grass better and have better traction when bashing.
Any vids or pics u can point me to that would help me mod this sucker for ground clearance and bashing power?
Thanks
I want it to be able to run in the grass better and have better traction when bashing.
Any vids or pics u can point me to that would help me mod this sucker for ground clearance and bashing power?
Thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Which is a better setup
Which is a better setup between these two MMP with 2400KV or STOCK Losi scte ESC & 2800KV motor.
THANKS
THANKS
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
So here is my question(eventually... Sorry for all the blabla but really felt I actually had a whole better car today... A happy dude ;-)
What would change in the actual truck behavior if I was to change from timing 10 to 0 and "replace" with punch control from 100% to 80%?
Would the whole ESC / motor / battery get hotter?
Am I better off tweaking timing or punch control?
What is the actual difference between punch control and timing? I do get both are relating to "over clocking" the whole system but I do not see the difference.
Finally, would I get the same punch going from to a 17T to 19T?
What would change in the actual truck behavior if I was to change from timing 10 to 0 and "replace" with punch control from 100% to 80%?
Would the whole ESC / motor / battery get hotter?
Am I better off tweaking timing or punch control?
What is the actual difference between punch control and timing? I do get both are relating to "over clocking" the whole system but I do not see the difference.
Finally, would I get the same punch going from to a 17T to 19T?
Punch control limits how fast the motor will spool up. The higher the punch control number the great the limit on spool up (meaning how fast the RPM can change in a given interval of time). Someone else said this before but possibly a language barrier is keeping you from understanding the meaning of our statements. I just don't know how else to say it.
IMHO, you have too big a pinion for 3S with the 2400. I run a 13 and a buddy of mine runs a 14 on the 2400 on 3S. Our motors do not get hot and our cars run just as fast as the guys with Pro4 4600 motors on 2S.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
AFAIK, the two ESCs are identical. But I believe the Castle 2400 uses higher quality components (yes, I know both motors are made by Castle) and is more efficient. But the KV being lower, you need 3S to take advantage of the higher efficiency. If you are stuck with 2S, I would say use the Losi version of the motor.
Punch control has nothing to do with "over clocking" (whatever that is?).
Punch control limits how fast the motor will spool up. The higher the punch control number the great the limit on spool up (meaning how fast the RPM can change in a given interval of time). Someone else said this before but possibly a language barrier is keeping you from understanding the meaning of our statements. I just don't know how else to say it.
IMHO, you have too big a pinion for 3S with the 2400. I run a 13 and a buddy of mine runs a 14 on the 2400 on 3S. Our motors do not get hot and our cars run just as fast as the guys with Pro4 4600 motors on 2S.
Punch control limits how fast the motor will spool up. The higher the punch control number the great the limit on spool up (meaning how fast the RPM can change in a given interval of time). Someone else said this before but possibly a language barrier is keeping you from understanding the meaning of our statements. I just don't know how else to say it.
IMHO, you have too big a pinion for 3S with the 2400. I run a 13 and a buddy of mine runs a 14 on the 2400 on 3S. Our motors do not get hot and our cars run just as fast as the guys with Pro4 4600 motors on 2S.
I will try to go to a 15 and see.
How about the timing?
Cheers,
V