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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-24-2012, 08:14 PM
  #37531  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
It's not just their shipping. They wouldn't even bother to send me a new $16 battery. Other companies like amain or tower would send me a new one no questions asked. I've waited a week and am still waiting for an email response from them.
I am sure there are some people that have contacted them saying they didn`t get something in their order with false pretenses .

I can guarantee you no company will just send out another battery without proof , I sure as heck wouldn`t .

Why wouldn`t you keep the packaging when you opened it up and seen a battery missing ?

I would call them or talk with the live help .



Anyway , this is a SCTE forum not Hobby King`s .

The SCTE is an awesome SCT !
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:20 PM
  #37532  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Thats why the batteries are so cheap! Duh!
You expect customer service on a $40 battery? Seriously?
33-50%? Wheres your data? I have ordered 10 batteries so far, so in your world, up to 5 of them should be toast then, but I have never had a single failure to date, one has swelled a bit and it is 9 months old... I use those packs in my SCTE too... Tekin RX8/Pro4 4000 = HIGH current drawing beast!



If you want a warranty, order from Maxamps... and Pray....
I would use my nanotecs over any maxcramps batteries. The customer support is terrible but they make damn good batteries. Maxamps are just like apple, overpriced for what you get. I even tried using the live help feature and they still directed me to their email service. All this crap to get a $16 battery. Btw i still have the box with all the adresses/order info.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:20 PM
  #37533  
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
I am done with cheap Chinese battery companies. Zero customer service, no warranty that can be used, and about 33-50% of the batteries fail after three months with light usage/setups. I will only purchase batteries with warranties... Pro-Match Racing and Venom are the ones that I would consider-- both US based....
I think your stretching the 33-50% quite a bit .

I just placed my 17th order with them . Not one battery came bad nor failed even within a year . I check my batteries as soon as I open the box to check overall voltage and that they are balanced . Turnigy Nanotech batteries are becoming pretty popular , if they only last 3 months nobody would be buying them . Funny you think Pro-Match and venom lipos are made in USA , might be assembled but not made in the USA .
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:24 PM
  #37534  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
Does anyone know the screw part number for mounting motor mine stripped with my Losi HEXS?
Also the screw for for the body mounts the small one.
Thanks for any help
Heres a link to the manual online.


http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSB0...al_English.pdf

Motor mount: A6277 (PAGE 19)

Body mounts: A6236 OR A6256 (PAGE 17)
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:27 PM
  #37535  
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Originally Posted by Briguy
I think your stretching the 33-50% quite a bit .

I just placed my 17th order with them . Not one battery came bad nor failed even within a year . I check my batteries as soon as I open the box to check overall voltage and that they are balanced . Turnigy Nanotech batteries are becoming pretty popular , if they only last 3 months nobody would be buying them . Funny you think Pro-Match and venom lipos are made in USA , might be assembled but not made in the USA .
Heck is anything made in the usa now?
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:31 PM
  #37536  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Thats why the batteries are so cheap! Duh!
You expect customer service on a $40 battery? Seriously?
33-50%? Wheres your data? I have ordered 10 batteries so far, so in your world, up to 5 of them should be toast then, but I have never had a single failure to date, one has swelled a bit and it is 9 months old... I use those packs in my SCTE too... Tekin RX8/Pro4 4000 = HIGH current drawing beast!



If you want a warranty, order from Maxamps... and Pray....
I ordered two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 7.4V batteries and they both lasted one run. I purchased two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 11.1V (For another car--Losi 810E) batteries and one cell went bad after a month. The other one works fine. I purchased two Sky Lipo's 3000 mah 7.4V and they still work fine. I purchased two 6000 mah nanotechs 7.4V and one went bad after about three weeks. The two cell batteries are used in my Hyper 10Sc (Light SCT) with a Tekin RX8 and a 4.5 SCX and the lvc is set correctly. I do not bash...only race... I could get about twenty minutes of runtime out of most of the batts (7.4V) mentioned as the truck is so light, but I only use it for about twelve. I only race and take care of my stuff. I have had much better luck with Pro-Match Racing batteries.... Theres your data....
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:40 PM
  #37537  
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
I ordered two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 7.4V batteries and they both lasted one run. I purchased two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 11.1V (For another car--Losi 810E) batteries and one cell went bad after a month. The other one works fine. I purchased two Sky Lipo's 3000 mah 7.4V and they still work fine. I purchased two 6000 mah nanotechs 7.4V and one went bad after about three weeks. The two cell batteries are used in my Hyper 10Sc (Light SCT) with a Tekin RX8 and a 4.5 SCX and the lvc is set correctly. I do not bash...only race... I could get about twenty minutes of runtime out of most of the batts (7.4V) mentioned as the truck is so light, but I only use it for about twelve. I only race and take care of my stuff. I have had much better luck with Pro-Match Racing batteries.... Theres your data....
Holy crap, talk about bad luck?!?
I have had 2 gens ace packs as well, those were amazing for me! My Nanotechs rock, had proteks and they are a great deal FYI! Only "bad" batteries I have ever had were crappy NiMH packs and thats because we had to charge them with so many amps (to get any kind of performance) they would blopw! Hisss.... BANG! I don't miss those days...

BTW: Thats all an opinion, not scientific data...
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:41 PM
  #37538  
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
I ordered two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 7.4V batteries and they both lasted one run. I purchased two Gens Ace 5000 mah 40C 11.1V (For another car--Losi 810E) batteries and one cell went bad after a month. The other one works fine. I purchased two Sky Lipo's 3000 mah 7.4V and they still work fine. I purchased two 6000 mah nanotechs 7.4V and one went bad after about three weeks. The two cell batteries are used in my Hyper 10Sc (Light SCT) with a Tekin RX8 and a 4.5 SCX and the lvc is set correctly. I do not bash...only race... I could get about twenty minutes of runtime out of most of the batts (7.4V) mentioned as the truck is so light, but I only use it for about twelve. I only race and take care of my stuff. I have had much better luck with Pro-Match Racing batteries.... Theres your data....


but seriously i think you had some bad luck with the nanos. All three i have work great no problems in my close to 7lb tenshock powered scte. I can't speak for the gens ace as i've never used them but alot of my track buddies and "the jang" reccomend them. Btw the meme was for fun.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:31 AM
  #37539  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Has anyone found a chassis protector worth the investment? The thickest/best I found previously was from AE. However, it was trashed in 2 races.
I know we are off roading here, but the bottom of the chassis looks like a graveyard really quick.. Not sure if the 1/8 scale guys have a suggestion? Something that doesn't incur a ton of drag would be of preference. Thx!
Not needed unless you run on sand or rocks in the layout,I have been running A BCE twice a week for months on an out door track and it looks just perfect ,if I can find the pix I will post it so You can see!

Originally Posted by Ralph289
Got a good deal on a Castle 3800 with a MMP SCT edition for the SCTE I am ordering, want to order a few pinion gears. Any ideas ? Was going to order a pack of 12,13,14 as a starting point need long run time with a 6600 65c battery. Small track. Would those be ok or too small. don't need LOTS of speed.
I know it's not the best ESC & motor in the world but I am on a tight budget
THANKS
It is a very good and underrated motor and for the price it will pound the dirt like no other, very wise choice,especially if you lite-en the truck a bit!!

Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
I am done with cheap Chinese battery companies. Zero customer service, no warranty that can be used, and about 33-50% of the batteries fail after three months with light usage/setups. I will only purchase batteries with warranties... Pro-Match Racing and Venom are the ones that I would consider-- both US based....
Well said,This thread gets more page clutter of crappy batt talk everyday( gets old!)Venom has the best customer service anywhere!!

Last edited by BmainStar; 07-25-2012 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:54 AM
  #37540  
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Ok found it, with out starting a chassis pissing match just showing my BCE chassis bottom. 2x a week outdoor for over 4 months !You be the judge
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-f1-007.jpg  
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:04 AM
  #37541  
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Default castle 2400Kv vs Castle 3800Kv

Hey there,
I know the title of the post will make some react.
Not trying to compare, just trying to get some feeling about both motors.
1. ESC settings 2400Kv on 3s with MMP SCT:
These are the settings I have changed, the rest is factory default. I have also kept timing to 10 for both situations. I am actually not too sure what the difference is between TIMING and PUNCH... If anybody would explain...
- Auto-LiPo CutOff 3.4V
- Max Reverse Power 30%
- Punch Control 100%
- Throttle Dead Band 0.0500ms
- Throttle curve has been smoothed. Tweaking the dead band to its minimum (not really as the real min is 0.0250ms) seems to have given me far more control on the throttle. Now I am wondering if a 15T instead of the 17T I use will give me that much little more blip control over jumps?
2. ESC settings 3800Kv on 2s (NanoTech 6.0) with MMP SCT:
These are the settings I have changed, the rest is factory default.
- Auto-LiPo CutOff 3.4V
- Max Reverse Power 30%
- Punch Control 100%
- Throttle Dead Band 0.0500ms
- Throttle curve has been smoothed also. I am using a 15T and it seems fine.
though I prefer the 2400Kv as there is more "grunt" to it.
Any advice / opinion / experience more than welcome.
I am running on 1/8 track here in Geneva.
Best,
V
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:49 AM
  #37542  
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I'm liking the offset the Hazards have. Seemed to handle better but it could have been goose bumps. =) Or both
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:25 AM
  #37543  
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Turning your punch control down when using the 3800 would give it a lot more grunt. It pulls hard with a lot of punch.

Originally Posted by vasidudu
Hey there,
I know the title of the post will make some react.
Not trying to compare, just trying to get some feeling about both motors.
1. ESC settings 2400Kv on 3s with MMP SCT:
These are the settings I have changed, the rest is factory default. I have also kept timing to 10 for both situations. I am actually not too sure what the difference is between TIMING and PUNCH... If anybody would explain...
- Auto-LiPo CutOff 3.4V
- Max Reverse Power 30%
- Punch Control 100%
- Throttle Dead Band 0.0500ms
- Throttle curve has been smoothed. Tweaking the dead band to its minimum (not really as the real min is 0.0250ms) seems to have given me far more control on the throttle. Now I am wondering if a 15T instead of the 17T I use will give me that much little more blip control over jumps?
2. ESC settings 3800Kv on 2s (NanoTech 6.0) with MMP SCT:
These are the settings I have changed, the rest is factory default.
- Auto-LiPo CutOff 3.4V
- Max Reverse Power 30%
- Punch Control 100%
- Throttle Dead Band 0.0500ms
- Throttle curve has been smoothed also. I am using a 15T and it seems fine.
though I prefer the 2400Kv as there is more "grunt" to it.
Any advice / opinion / experience more than welcome.
I am running on 1/8 track here in Geneva.
Best,
V
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:18 AM
  #37544  
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Originally Posted by jonasm48
Turning your punch control down when using the 3800 would give it a lot more grunt. It pulls hard with a lot of punch.
Punch Control is turned down to... 100%

Not too sure what you mean by turning down PC with 3800Kv would give it more grunt? Do you mean torque?

Thx for your feedback.
Best,
V
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:19 AM
  #37545  
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Originally Posted by vasidudu
Punch Control is turned down to... 100%

Not too sure what you mean by turning down PC with 3800Kv would give it more grunt? Do you mean torque?
V
Punch control is a restraining value, so is actually "reversed" ie 100% control = a lot of restricting the punch (and therefore load on your system). 0% = no restriction (and therefore full load).

Quick copy and paste from the "?" on the CastleLink software:

100%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad, very good setting for "easy on parts" style bashing.

90%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd on low traction surfaces and offroad

80%
High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on low traction surfaces and offroad

75%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad

70%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad

60%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad

50%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med traction surfaces and offroad

40%
Med accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces

30%
Med/Low accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/high traction surfaces

25%
Med/High accelleration limiting - good for 2wd/4wd on med/low traction surfaces and offroad

20%
Low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces

10%
Very low accelleration limiting - good for 4wd on high traction surfaces

0%, Disabled
No accelleration limiting. The accelleration will be 100% determined by thr capability of your battery pack to flow power and maintain voltage.
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