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Old 07-22-2012, 06:16 PM
  #37411  
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Originally Posted by jcbudny
Looking for some electrical trouble shooting help. I just installed a Xerun SCT PRO ESC and 4000kv motor to my SCTE. I ran it for the first time today and I am getting bad cut outs in power and steering. I am using a Turnigy 6600 mah batt which is using a harness with Castle 4mm bullets into the Turnigy batt and EC5 on the other end into the ESC. from what I can tell all solder connections look good.

How would you guys go about trouble shooting this? My thoughts are it is either a faulty ESC or my connection from the battery isn't good. Again, when I loose power, it is throttle and steering.
Thanks for all the help on this guys. To answer some of your questions. I am running a futaba 3pm-x radio and my servo is a Savox 1258. The problem definitely is not heat related as the cut outs happen right away randomly for just a second at a time and the motor never temps over 150 and ESC 130.

Reading the suggestions it seems like the Savox servo or the ESC's internal BEC is causing the issues. When I do loose power, it is both throttle and steering together.

Is there any way to test the servo glitching or BEC without investing a lot of $, would love to replicate the problem on my bench, but on my stand the car seems to run smooth.

Thanks again for the help and keep it coming!
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:30 PM
  #37412  
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Originally Posted by jcbudny
Thanks for all the help on this guys. To answer some of your questions. I am running a futaba 3pm-x radio and my servo is a Savox 1258. The problem definitely is not heat related as the cut outs happen right away randomly for just a second at a time and the motor never temps over 150 and ESC 130.

Reading the suggestions it seems like the Savox servo or the ESC's internal BEC is causing the issues. When I do loose power, it is both throttle and steering together.

Is there any way to test the servo glitching or BEC without investing a lot of $, would love to replicate the problem on my bench, but on my stand the car seems to run smooth.

Thanks again for the help and keep it coming!
Have your bud hold it down, give it 1/4 throttle, turn it back and forth and see what happens,, my dino broke and its getting fixed.. dino... used sears belt sander turn up side down ,, it worked tell my wife let go.. J/K no dino
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
Have your bud hold it down, give it 1/4 throttle, turn it back and forth and see what happens,, my dino broke and its getting fixed.. dino... used sears belt sander turn up side down ,, it worked tell my wife let go.. J/K no dino
I took your suggestions and had the wife hold down my truck (I had to interrupt the finale of the Bachelorette for this... not a good idea gentlemen). What I found is that I can replicate the glitch if I swing the steering fully to one direction then release it, the esc will cut out (red light blips and the car looses power) for a split second. This leads me to believe that my Savox is causing the issues. I'll try putting a glitch buster on my receiver to see if that helps, if not I'll probably try swapping the servo out for something else.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:26 PM
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That's a common problem at my track.

This usually solves the issue.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:30 PM
  #37415  
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Getting ready to put some fresh silicone in my difffs and was thinking of trying 7,5,3 has anyone tried this setup? The track I run on is usally bumpy and somewhat loose, no sweeping turns 180's with short run up to the jumps I know 5,5,3 is popular but is that better suited for a highbite track?
Thank's Bob

I went from 3,5,3 to 553 and lost alot of steering off and on power but mainly turn in and mid corner, I would lighten up that front diff fluid, unless u already have really good steering
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:32 PM
  #37416  
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With 4wd SC and 1/8th scale I use the CC BEC from day 1. It's a bit annoying not having a proper on/off switch on the steering but it eliminates so many voltage related headaches. The caps sometimes work and sometimes not. One quick way to tell if your voltage is dropping is to watch the LED on the personal transponder while turning the wheels left and right. If the LED flickers your voltage is dropping under load.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:57 PM
  #37417  
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Originally Posted by kcobra
That could make for some nice swamp buggy action. Looks like there are some nice sippy holes ready to go!
You are either from Naples, or have been there quite a bit. Sippy holes. I haven't heard that term since I moved up here!!!! Awesome. That just made my whole weekend.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:58 PM
  #37418  
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
I have two sets of integy drivers. As I said I had a used SCTE that I had no problems with the screws. This brand new one it just seems every screw is different. Its really my biggest gripe.

I thought it was funny when I opened the diffs and saw a glob of...something in there. Like a DnD slime.
Jammin sells a screw kit that has most of the screws you need for 15 bucks!The truck comes with grease in the diffs.Yes its a pain to clean out but we all had to do it!

Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
Yes because I said my new 280 roller was junk. Im positive I did. Complete junk.

Thats why I bought a second one, its junk!
Take a deep breath!!!!

Originally Posted by jhock
Question, first race with scte, tekin rx8 and tekin 4600. We race 10 minute mains and I dumped battery with 50 seconds left, 6000 ip battery. Question is my motor was 230 degrees and speedo at 110. I was geared 14 pinion with speedo at 80 percent current limiter. Do you think that's to high temp on motor and what you think I could do to make 10 minutes, decrease current limit to 70 or gear lower pinion?
Crazy how the non sensor ed cc 1410 can run 130 all day and the 4600 heats up?Both 4-poles as well
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:10 PM
  #37419  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Jammin sells a screw kit that has most of the screws you need for 15 bucks!The truck comes with grease in the diffs.Yes its a pain to clean out but we all had to do it!

Take a deep breath!!!!

Crazy how the non sensor ed cc 1410 can run 130 all day and the 4600 heats up?Both 4-poles as well
Depends on the ESC. Fully sensored ESC's will make the motor run hotter then Dual mod ESC's.
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:23 PM
  #37420  
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what are some solutions to traction rolls? is in the shock or spring?
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:39 PM
  #37421  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Depends on the ESC. Fully sensored ESC's will make the motor run hotter then Dual mod ESC's.
Was runnin the MMP and 1410,switched to rx8 and 4600 and just surprised how warm it can get! I am at 160 with a 12 tooth on a small indoor track last night with current limit,no drag,or timing,I am ok with 160 but just seems alot of peeps are runnin hot with that set up and switching to another set up/ Dunno!!!

Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
what are some solutions to traction rolls? is in the shock or spring?
Could be too much traction from your tires,too much side bite and throttle at the same time???
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:46 PM
  #37422  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Was runnin the MMP and 1410,switched to rx8 and 4600 and just surprised how warm it can get! I am at 160 with a 12 tooth on a small indoor track last night with current limit,no drag,or timing,I am ok with 160 but just seems alot of peeps are runnin hot with that set up and switching to another set up/ Dunno!!!

Could be too much traction from your tires,too much side bite and throttle at the same time???
I run ty's setup almost to a "T" and I run 140-150 all the time with a 14. Might be driving style?
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:59 PM
  #37423  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
what are some solutions to traction rolls? is in the shock or spring?
Could also be blown out tire foams.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:19 AM
  #37424  
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What brand and size chuck of cordless drill or impact wrench are yall using?
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:34 AM
  #37425  
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Has anyone experimented with tuning their bladder shocks rebound to suit track conditions or even just tuning it for their general setup?

First thing - I tried emulsion and didn't like them on the SCTE. Given more time i'm sure they could work.

I always build my shocks with about 1/4" of rebound, slightly less in the front. My thinking was always that the spring should do the work not pressure in the shock. I've since watched a video where The Drake talks about building the bladder shocks for the 8ight and he mentioned using 1/2 or even full rebound in some circumstances. This led me to believe that maybe I was missing something. I want to rebuild the shocks with about 1/2 rebound and try that. Any thoughts?
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