Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread >

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Like Tree9Likes

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-22-2012, 10:47 AM
  #37396  
Tech Addict
 
USMC STONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 583
Default

Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974 View Post
I have two sets of integy drivers. As I said I had a used SCTE that I had no problems with the screws. This brand new one it just seems every screw is different. Its really my biggest gripe.

I thought it was funny when I opened the diffs and saw a glob of...something in there. Like a DnD slime.
Integy tools are not good at all. Use a 2mm about 10 times and it becomes a 1.8mm. The material strips before some screws do. Buy a real set or at least the hex part like from Hudy. Also Losi screws are terrible, get a set of Tony's screws.
Want to build the best 4x4 out then base it off the Losi but use as minimal losi parts as possible.
1. Any aftermarket chassis is better than stock. I use the Bump
2. Shock towers- go carbon (Losi carbon not bad, losi aluminum bend just like stock)SNR or others good too.
3. Use all the drivetrain available from Tekno. The Losi stuff is just not satisfactory unless u get the lightened stuff. Still Tekno stuff is better.
4. Shocks go with Hd for lightweight or indoors or for me the SNR tall towers with 8ight shocks as I run all large tracks.
5. RPM makes good arms stock ones aren't too bad but plastic strips like butter, always been a Losi problem. Even the diff screws came stripped from factory.
6. If someone else made a diff case everyone would jump on that as the stock ones are total crap, have to glue inserts into already cheap plastic. Gears would wear pretty quick, new gears are better.
7. Front stock bumper not bad but rear has never been good. Breaks if you look at it wrong just like the stock shock towers and chassis. Can bend with my bare hands.
Don't even buy a roller, buy it in parts you want so you don't throw away all the stock parts that belong in trash anyway.
You can still build the truck for around $300-350 but have all upgraded race ready parts.
VA RCPro Series Champion.

Last edited by USMC STONE; 07-22-2012 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Miss spelling
USMC STONE is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:18 AM
  #37397  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 696
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Nice truck chucko, what battery tray is that?I like the esc forward
pooldoc is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:21 AM
  #37398  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Paducah, KY
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Yep the integy tools are you problem. I was using that crap and it did seem like every screw was different. I went and got a quality set of losi hex drivers standard size and it fits every screw perfect. No jamming them in and stripping out heads. Maybe you should spend the extra $50 on the right tools before bitching that your new $300 roller is junk. Or go buy a traxxas they even come with cheap tools to work on them.
j_kinz is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:26 AM
  #37399  
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
 
HighLife420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 1,189
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Throwindirt View Post
Hey Highlife420 how are those knuckles from integy? was thinking about getting them but not sure .Is there any weight difference from stock , does everything fit good?Not sure you need aluminum knuckles in the front but they sure do look trick.Let us know how they work out.
I really like them. I didn't weigh them, but they are certainly heavier than the plastic. I would guess about 2-4 grams more per. I wanted the weight in the front since im running the MIP kit.

Races today, but only 1 qual. Took 1st though with my setup. Truck felt great. Running stock setup with a few small changes. Can check out the mip thread and see what i changed.
HighLife420 is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:29 AM
  #37400  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 645
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

Originally Posted by j_kinz View Post
Yep the integy tools are you problem. I was using that crap and it did seem like every screw was different. I went and got a quality set of losi hex drivers standard size and it fits every screw perfect. No jamming them in and stripping out heads. Maybe you should spend the extra $50 on the right tools before bitching that your new $300 roller is junk. Or go buy a traxxas they even come with cheap tools to work on them.
Yes because I said my new 280 roller was junk. Im positive I did. Complete junk.

Thats why I bought a second one, its junk!
Ironwolf1974 is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:38 AM
  #37401  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by USMC STONE View Post
Integy tools are not good at all. Use a 2mm about 10 times and it becomes a 1.8mm. The material strips before some screws do. Buy a real set or at least the hex part like from Hudy. Also Losi screws are terrible, get a set of Tony's screws.
Want to build the best 4x4 out then base it off the Losi but use as minimal losi parts as possible.
1. Any aftermarket chassis is better than stock. I use the Bump
2. Shock towers- go carbon (Losi carbon not bad, losi aluminum bend just like stock)SNR or others good too.
3. Use all the drivetrain available from Tekno. The Losi stuff is just not satisfactory unless u get the lightened stuff. Still Tekno stuff is better.
4. Shocks go with Hd for lightweight or indoors or for me the SNR tall towers with 8ight shocks as I run all large tracks.
5. RPM makes good arms stock ones aren't too bad but plastic strips like butter, always been a Losi problem. Even the diff screws came stripped from factory.
6. If someone else made a diff case everyone would jump on that as the stock ones are total crap, have to glue inserts into already cheap plastic. Gears would wear pretty quick, new gears are better.
7. Front stock bumper not bad but rear has never been good. Breaks if you look at it wrong just like the stock shock towers and chassis. Can bend with my bare hands.
Don't even buy a roller, buy it in parts you want so you don't throw away all the stock parts that belong in trash anyway.
You can still build the truck for around $300-350 but have all upgraded race ready parts.
VA RCPro Series Champion.
Originally Posted by j_kinz View Post
Yep the integy tools are you problem. I was using that crap and it did seem like every screw was different. I went and got a quality set of losi hex drivers standard size and it fits every screw perfect. No jamming them in and stripping out heads. Maybe you should spend the extra $50 on the right tools before bitching that your new $300 roller is junk. Or go buy a traxxas they even come with cheap tools to work on them.

+1000...
I had integys expensive tool kit, 2 blue handles a bunch of bits and OH MY how nice it looked, but thats where it ended!!! I, 2 also had to buy new bits becuz after 5 uses they wore out and got sick of buying $5-$8 bits everytime i wanted to work on my trucks! Sold the kit for 1/2 of what i paid and only had it a few months!! I never looked back bought the Losi 8in1 driver kit $40-50 and have had no issues with the screws and YET to replace a bit and had it for almost a year now...If it fits tight, thats good, there is no slop to wear out the bit or the screw SO FLAME ON with yer issues since i would be worried about bigger issues if parts were breaking, stuff not working right, and so on but not screws/hexes being too many diff sizes or fitting tight
TCCustoms is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 12:04 PM
  #37402  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (198)
 
XXXDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
Posts: 6,120
Trader Rating: 198 (100%+)
Thumbs down Good Driving..... Untill... :(

Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
I really like them. I didn't weigh them, but they are certainly heavier than the plastic. I would guess about 2-4 grams more per. I wanted the weight in the front since im running the MIP kit.

Races today, but only 1 qual. Took 1st though with my setup. Truck felt great. Running stock setup with a few small changes. Can check out the mip thread and see what i changed.
Good day gone Bad!
XXXDad is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 12:34 PM
  #37403  
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,589
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

That could make for some nice swamp buggy action. Looks like there are some nice sippy holes ready to go!
kcobra is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 01:23 PM
  #37404  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jhock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 462
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Question, first race with scte, tekin rx8 and tekin 4600. We race 10 minute mains and I dumped battery with 50 seconds left, 6000 ip battery. Question is my motor was 230 degrees and speedo at 110. I was geared 14 pinion with speedo at 80 percent current limiter. Do you think that's to high temp on motor and what you think I could do to make 10 minutes, decrease current limit to 70 or gear lower pinion?
jhock is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 01:40 PM
  #37405  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
rcgod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Blackfoot Idaho.
Posts: 3,354
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jhock View Post
Question, first race with scte, tekin rx8 and tekin 4600. We race 10 minute mains and I dumped battery with 50 seconds left, 6000 ip battery. Question is my motor was 230 degrees and speedo at 110. I was geared 14 pinion with speedo at 80 percent current limiter. Do you think that's to high temp on motor and what you think I could do to make 10 minutes, decrease current limit to 70 or gear lower pinion?
Run 12-13 tooth pinion, make sure no timing in esc. Also too much brake will cause high motor temps. With those settings you should be able to make 10 minutes but to be safe limit warm up laps. I usually dump a 5000 mah pack in 8 minutes or a little less. I now run the ip6800 pack to be safe.
rcgod is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 02:00 PM
  #37406  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (47)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stevens Point, WI
Posts: 609
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Looking for some electrical trouble shooting help. I just installed a Xerun SCT PRO ESC and 4000kv motor to my SCTE. I ran it for the first time today and I am getting bad cut outs in power and steering. I am using a Turnigy 6600 mah batt which is using a harness with Castle 4mm bullets into the Turnigy batt and EC5 on the other end into the ESC. from what I can tell all solder connections look good.

How would you guys go about trouble shooting this? My thoughts are it is either a faulty ESC or my connection from the battery isn't good. Again, when I loose power, it is throttle and steering.
jcbudny is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 02:26 PM
  #37407  
Tech Addict
 
USMC STONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 583
Default

Originally Posted by jcbudny View Post
Looking for some electrical trouble shooting help. I just installed a Xerun SCT PRO ESC and 4000kv motor to my SCTE. I ran it for the first time today and I am getting bad cut outs in power and steering. I am using a Turnigy 6600 mah batt which is using a harness with Castle 4mm bullets into the Turnigy batt and EC5 on the other end into the ESC. from what I can tell all solder connections look good.

How would you guys go about trouble shooting this? My thoughts are it is either a faulty ESC or my connection from the battery isn't good. Again, when I loose power, it is throttle and steering.
Almost certain a Castle External BEC will solve that. It seems every ESC can have this problem. Sometimes not needed but a simple test is turn on your system, crank wheels back and forth real fast on controller watching your reviever light. If it dims at all then install the BEC. Follow directions mainly remove the red esc wire from connector. I would install the external BEC anyway to adjust the power going to servo. Almost all the internal adjustable BEC outputs on ESCs are weak and are not correct. I have MMP that needs it and one that doesn't same with RX8 so it's pretty common issue.
USMC STONE is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 02:47 PM
  #37408  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
chucko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,315
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pooldoc View Post
Nice truck chucko, what battery tray is that?I like the esc forward
Chris Attaberry Performance. hes here... PM him or go to his web site. its nice. helps with traction. lowers center of gravity. makes running wire from esc lots more fun,.
chucko is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 02:54 PM
  #37409  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
chucko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,315
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jcbudny View Post
Looking for some electrical trouble shooting help. I just installed a Xerun SCT PRO ESC and 4000kv motor to my SCTE. I ran it for the first time today and I am getting bad cut outs in power and steering. I am using a Turnigy 6600 mah batt which is using a harness with Castle 4mm bullets into the Turnigy batt and EC5 on the other end into the ESC. from what I can tell all solder connections look good.

How would you guys go about trouble shooting this? My thoughts are it is either a faulty ESC or my connection from the battery isn't good. Again, when I loose power, it is throttle and steering.
e-mail Jeff at Pro match battery's he got a 6800ip. that will get you to your 10 min main. or call hobbyking pay 58 get it in a few weeks. or promatch and get it in three days

next.. glitch or problems with???? if your running a spectrum radio that explains it. a cap 10 will fix or band aid it .. plug it in to the bind port. some times big current draw motors will do that. change your current limit to 60 % expo to 100% dont spin out try to drive smothe. gear down temps to high.. put a fan on it. kingshead makes one. clamp ons work, I got one for 10.00 and used the fan from the speed control.. as it never goes on if your geared right. also make sure your end settings on steering are set.. binding the servo will glitch most of even the high dollar radios
chucko is offline  
Old 07-22-2012, 03:21 PM
  #37410  
Tech Addict
 
USMC STONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 583
Default

I don't know what he's talking about my 6600 nano's were $48 each shipped, all 8 of them and using stock connector with deans and not one has caused an issue. I get 12-15 minutes easy on 1/8 sized tracks in a +-7lb losi depending on how much mud I pick up.
USMC STONE is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.