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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-22-2012, 09:05 AM
  #37381  
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Originally Posted by eddomak
I'm not a track racer either, and just run with some friends.

I was running the MMP + 1415 2400KV motor when I first got the truck, on 2S with 18T-20T pinion and it was a beast but not very smooth, especially at low speed. People have told me that motor is designed for 3S and is a lot smoother that way. The best thing I did was to change over to a sensored motor - buttery smooth on 2S 15T. The Hobbywing and the Tenshocks are around the same price (or less) than the Castle, so might as well go them. On 2S it heaps better and nicer to control on the sensored motor.

The switch from the MMP to the Hobbywing SCT Pro ESC was not as noticeable. The main thing was that the HW ESC's BEC means I no longer need to run a glitch buster capacitor to remove glitching.
The Hobbywing SCT Pro, Tenshock SC411 4000kv might be what I need any idea about how long a run time you get with the 15T pinion ?
Do you think this combo with the 4000KV motor is as good as the Tenshock ?
If you want to go cheaper, nonsensored, there's the HW SC8 / EZRun 4000KV combo for $152.70 (the SC-C2 combo, pre-order):
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...-combo-for-sct
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:46 AM
  #37382  
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Originally Posted by Ralph289
The Hobbywing SCT Pro, Tenshock SC411 4000kv might be what I need any idea about how long a run time you get with the 15T pinion ?
Do you think this combo with the 4000KV motor is as good as the Tenshock ?
If you want to go cheaper, nonsensored, there's the HW SC8 / EZRun 4000KV combo for $152.70 (the SC-C2 combo, pre-order):
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...-combo-for-sct
Your link is no good.
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:51 AM
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Why does nobody read the fact that everyscrew I have to basically jam a different sized driver in them each time to get them to come loose? People keep talking about I use this driver or that driver. Sure. I do to, but then I also have both metric and standard and one sometimes fits where the other doesnt.

BUT, each time I have to basically FORCE the driver into the screw, some of the screws have started to strip already.

Im not talking about different tools here, IM talking about each screw seeming to be different. How is that not a valid complaint?

The mudflaps was just a question. And I gave my OPINION. I owned a used SCTE that I loved, and have now got the roller with all the options I wanted.

And people arent giving me greif, there being punks plain and simple. Im not crying, Im typing out FACTS about a truck I love and wondering if anyone feels the same way.

I didnt expect for people to care either way, but certainly not get a bunch of "Stop crying noob" from this forum. Then again, I havent been here long so I guess I should have expected the childishness.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:09 AM
  #37384  
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
Why does nobody read the fact that everyscrew I have to basically jam a different sized driver in them each time to get them to come loose? People keep talking about I use this driver or that driver. Sure. I do to, but then I also have both metric and standard and one sometimes fits where the other doesnt.

BUT, each time I have to basically FORCE the driver into the screw, some of the screws have started to strip already.

Im not talking about different tools here, IM talking about each screw seeming to be different. How is that not a valid complaint?
I've followed this thread as much as I could since the beginning, and this might be the first time I've heard of tolerance issues with screw heads. I have this truck and the 8ight-T 2.0 and the 8ight 2.0. I'm guessing the screws come from the same place for most the Losi vehicles and I haven't had any issues with my tools fitting into the Losi hardware.

What tools are you using? Are you using the correct size? I see lots of people mixing up metric and standard. You should only be using HIGH QUALITY standard sized tools with standard hardware for this truck.

Anyone else having issues with the hardware tolerances?

From what I've read, most issues anyone had with hardware comes down to using crappy tools and user error.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SEF
I've followed this thread as much as I could since the beginning, and this might be the first time I've heard of tolerance issues with screw heads. I have this truck and the 8ight-T 2.0 and the 8ight 2.0. I'm guessing the screws come from the same place for most the Losi vehicles and I haven't had any issues with my tools fitting into the Losi hardware.

What tools are you using? Are you using the correct size? I see lots of people mixing up metric and standard. You should only be using HIGH QUALITY standard sized tools with standard hardware for this truck.

Anyone else having issues with the hardware tolerances?

From what I've read, most issues anyone had with hardware comes down to using crappy tools and user error.
I have two sets of integy drivers. As I said I had a used SCTE that I had no problems with the screws. This brand new one it just seems every screw is different. Its really my biggest gripe.

I thought it was funny when I opened the diffs and saw a glob of...something in there. Like a DnD slime.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:18 AM
  #37386  
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I haven't had stripped screws but then I use losi hex drivers.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
Why does nobody read the fact that everyscrew I have to basically jam a different sized driver in them each time to get them to come loose? People keep talking about I use this driver or that driver. Sure. I do to, but then I also have both metric and standard and one sometimes fits where the other doesnt.

BUT, each time I have to basically FORCE the driver into the screw, some of the screws have started to strip already.

Im not talking about different tools here, IM talking about each screw seeming to be different. How is that not a valid complaint?

The mudflaps was just a question. And I gave my OPINION. I owned a used SCTE that I loved, and have now got the roller with all the options I wanted.

And people arent giving me greif, there being punks plain and simple. Im not crying, Im typing out FACTS about a truck I love and wondering if anyone feels the same way.

I didnt expect for people to care either way, but certainly not get a bunch of "Stop crying noob" from this forum. Then again, I havent been here long so I guess I should have expected the childishness.

Maybe you're getting "childishness" because you're acting like an infant bitching about screws? Who cares? Poor you, I hope that you can go on living with all that you're dealing with.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:31 AM
  #37388  
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
Why does nobody read the fact that everyscrew I have to basically jam a different sized driver in them each time to get them to come loose? People keep talking about I use this driver or that driver. Sure. I do to, but then I also have both metric and standard and one sometimes fits where the other doesnt.

BUT, each time I have to basically FORCE the driver into the screw, some of the screws have started to strip already.

Im not talking about different tools here, IM talking about each screw seeming to be different. How is that not a valid complaint?

The mudflaps was just a question. And I gave my OPINION. I owned a used SCTE that I loved, and have now got the roller with all the options I wanted.

And people arent giving me greif, there being punks plain and simple. Im not crying, Im typing out FACTS about a truck I love and wondering if anyone feels the same way.

I didnt expect for people to care either way, but certainly not get a bunch of "Stop crying noob" from this forum. Then again, I havent been here long so I guess I should have expected the childishness.
Outside of the diff cups, I use 3/32 and 2mm hex drivers.

Is this a new or used truck? The large screws (8-32) that retain the front and rear bulkheads to the chassis are somewhat soft. This makes it difficult to insert the hex wrench after they have rubbed the track a few times.

On the other screws (5-40) I use a 2mm hex driver and have not had an issue. Do you strip one once in a while, of course, but 2mm fits them all.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:45 AM
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I love my truck nuff said. oh wait!!!!!!!!

tools, screws, nut drivers, I purchased rc screws,, not cool, tony's better, ace hardware grade 8 gota love em.. ten shock 411 runs hot, rx8 4600 1 yr sent in 4 times. all in the middle of a series. Randy Pike said buy two. one for back up so you can finish a race..don't spin tires drive slow. so I did.. came in last.. but I finished a race.. still using the tekin because I cant afford to go out and buy a mmp 4000 to run 20 deg cooler. just in stall a fan. get over it.. this thread is a sales place for us to sell what we think works for all... blue shocks bitchen I can look at my truck all day..its just a guy thing. but I did notice that when I was tearing in to the truck to rebuild the thing,, some screws were installed wrong. one diff was missing a shim washer and one had no grease in it at all. the front diff was ... I get it we all have problems. working on the truck is fun.. I took pictures sent them to Horizon. they sent me a Christmas package. 6 brand new drive shafts. three diff housings. and all for free.. you got to love these guys no matter what. so call me a punk. I have been called worse. now lets go play with our toysLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-7-10-2012-001.jpg
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:57 AM
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you will notice the hose tie wrapped in the front bumper. this will save you $. it stops the compression of the plastic and thus stopping the total collapse and causing it to break at the top section. I still haven't figured out how to stop the cross bars in the rear to stop breaking.. I dont want to go to harbor fright and buy a plastic welder for 180.00 to fix it/ and make something to last. I will admit driving a 1/8 scale track and flying 30 feet across two jumps landing and doing cart wheels can do things.. so any of you experts out there have a good idea. I tried T bone.. not cool the angle makes it hard to do steep jumps. RPM is cool but I dont break what they sell. just the cross brace's. any help would be nice. Thanks in advance.. Please don't call me names I cry a lot..Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-7-10-2012-002.jpg
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:11 AM
  #37391  
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Originally Posted by chucko
Please don't call me names I cry a lot..Attachment 949684
LOL - now that's funny!!!
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:47 AM
  #37392  
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
I have two sets of integy drivers. As I said I had a used SCTE that I had no problems with the screws. This brand new one it just seems every screw is different. Its really my biggest gripe.

I thought it was funny when I opened the diffs and saw a glob of...something in there. Like a DnD slime.
Integy tools are not good at all. Use a 2mm about 10 times and it becomes a 1.8mm. The material strips before some screws do. Buy a real set or at least the hex part like from Hudy. Also Losi screws are terrible, get a set of Tony's screws.
Want to build the best 4x4 out then base it off the Losi but use as minimal losi parts as possible.
1. Any aftermarket chassis is better than stock. I use the Bump
2. Shock towers- go carbon (Losi carbon not bad, losi aluminum bend just like stock)SNR or others good too.
3. Use all the drivetrain available from Tekno. The Losi stuff is just not satisfactory unless u get the lightened stuff. Still Tekno stuff is better.
4. Shocks go with Hd for lightweight or indoors or for me the SNR tall towers with 8ight shocks as I run all large tracks.
5. RPM makes good arms stock ones aren't too bad but plastic strips like butter, always been a Losi problem. Even the diff screws came stripped from factory.
6. If someone else made a diff case everyone would jump on that as the stock ones are total crap, have to glue inserts into already cheap plastic. Gears would wear pretty quick, new gears are better.
7. Front stock bumper not bad but rear has never been good. Breaks if you look at it wrong just like the stock shock towers and chassis. Can bend with my bare hands.
Don't even buy a roller, buy it in parts you want so you don't throw away all the stock parts that belong in trash anyway.
You can still build the truck for around $300-350 but have all upgraded race ready parts.
VA RCPro Series Champion.

Last edited by USMC STONE; 07-22-2012 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Miss spelling
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:18 PM
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Nice truck chucko, what battery tray is that?I like the esc forward
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:21 PM
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Yep the integy tools are you problem. I was using that crap and it did seem like every screw was different. I went and got a quality set of losi hex drivers standard size and it fits every screw perfect. No jamming them in and stripping out heads. Maybe you should spend the extra $50 on the right tools before bitching that your new $300 roller is junk. Or go buy a traxxas they even come with cheap tools to work on them.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Throwindirt
Hey Highlife420 how are those knuckles from integy? was thinking about getting them but not sure .Is there any weight difference from stock , does everything fit good?Not sure you need aluminum knuckles in the front but they sure do look trick.Let us know how they work out.
I really like them. I didn't weigh them, but they are certainly heavier than the plastic. I would guess about 2-4 grams more per. I wanted the weight in the front since im running the MIP kit.

Races today, but only 1 qual. Took 1st though with my setup. Truck felt great. Running stock setup with a few small changes. Can check out the mip thread and see what i changed.
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