Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread >

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Like Tree9Likes

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-16-2012, 09:21 PM
  #37111  
Tech Master
iTrader: (230)
 
nitro_mt_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Wapakoneta OH
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 230 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ach86 View Post
Since the arguing seems to be over I wanted to see if nitro_mt_racer had any comments on the RevTechs or even if he has figured out his heat issues. Still on the fence purchasing one if this is the case.
Did some more testing tonight. Paired the revtech with the rx8 and the ballistic with the mmp as was previously suggested. I cleaned both sensor boards as was suggested also. Reset all the timing marks to neutral, double checked all software to make sure there was no timing/boost, turned the current limiter to 60% on the rx8 and geared it 14/40 per Jim Dieter's comments on revtech's website. Ran 5 minutes and temp'd 194. Geared the ballistic 16/40 per the scte manual, ran 5 minutes and temp'd 210.

I ordered all new bearings for both trucks today. Probably should have ordered bearings for both motors today too but forgot about it until after the order was placed.
nitro_mt_racer is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 09:25 PM
  #37112  
Tech Master
iTrader: (230)
 
nitro_mt_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Wapakoneta OH
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 230 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ach86 View Post
Since the arguing seems to be over I wanted to see if nitro_mt_racer had any comments on the RevTechs or even if he has figured out his heat issues. Still on the fence purchasing one if this is the case.
We should mount my revtech in your scte and take it for a spin. If it runs hot in your truck then we know I've got a motor issue if not then I've got an issue with the truck.
nitro_mt_racer is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:09 PM
  #37113  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
BmainStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: pullin in,ca.
Posts: 1,985
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by socal90 View Post
Yes, It has the aluminum holders.. So, are these what you mean?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inge-Pin-Set-6


Thanks
Yes exactly! Also get new inserts as well!If you run the # zero inserts they are the same as stock settings which is what most people run!This will fix everything you have going on there!!Cheers!
BmainStar is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:12 PM
  #37114  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
BmainStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: pullin in,ca.
Posts: 1,985
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
Did some more testing tonight. Paired the revtech with the rx8 and the ballistic with the mmp as was previously suggested. I cleaned both sensor boards as was suggested also. Reset all the timing marks to neutral, double checked all software to make sure there was no timing/boost, turned the current limiter to 60% on the rx8 and geared it 14/40 per Jim Dieter's comments on revtech's website. Ran 5 minutes and temp'd 194. Geared the ballistic 16/40 per the scte manual, ran 5 minutes and temp'd 210.

I ordered all new bearings for both trucks today. Probably should have ordered bearings for both motors today too but forgot about it until after the order was placed.
13 on the rev and 14 on the Ballistic sounds mo betta.Did You say You got them used?? Motors do go bad
BmainStar is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:30 PM
  #37115  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (34)
 
socal90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chatsworth
Posts: 522
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Yes exactly! Also get new inserts as well!If you run the # zero inserts they are the same as stock settings which is what most people run!This will fix everything you have going on there!!Cheers!
I took it apart and checked it all out, it seems like there is more slop in the arms than in the hinge pins. Do you think it's possible the hinge pin holes in the arms got stretched out??
I am going to order the pins and inserts anyway, just wondering what you thought about the arms.
socal90 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:41 PM
  #37116  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
BmainStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: pullin in,ca.
Posts: 1,985
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by socal90 View Post
I took it apart and checked it all out, it seems like there is more slop in the arms than in the hinge pins. Do you think it's possible the hinge pin holes in the arms got stretched out??
I am going to order the pins and inserts anyway, just wondering what you thought about the arms.
Some times people will drill or ream them out to keep from binding and they may have gone overboard!So the nsrts dont look all out of round?That is usually it! Arms will last forever,so if you can get new arms as well! The ti coating keeps the arms moving bind free way better than the stockers,It will be good to go from then on!!
BmainStar is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:51 PM
  #37117  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (34)
 
socal90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chatsworth
Posts: 522
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Some times people will drill or ream them out to keep from binding and they may have gone overboard!So the nsrts dont look all out of round?That is usually it! Arms will last forever,so if you can get new arms as well! The ti coating keeps the arms moving bind free way better than the stockers,It will be good to go from then on!!
No, the inserts don't look bad, I'm curious about how much movement there should be. If it normally binds up, then these have definitely been messed with or stretched out. Also, I wonder if the RPM arms are better?
socal90 is offline  
Old 07-16-2012, 11:15 PM
  #37118  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
BmainStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: pullin in,ca.
Posts: 1,985
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by socal90 View Post
No, the inserts don't look bad, I'm curious about how much movement there should be. If it normally binds up, then these have definitely been messed with or stretched out. Also, I wonder if the RPM arms are better?
No dont even bother with the RPM ones!Not only have I never broken an arm front or rear in almost a year and a half of racing twice a week(,my friend tried them and they were binding or rubbing against the hinge holders!)Stick with the stockers,The rpm will flex to much as well!!Stock for sure!!!
BmainStar is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 05:42 AM
  #37119  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
 
ach86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
We should mount my revtech in your scte and take it for a spin. If it runs hot in your truck then we know I've got a motor issue if not then I've got an issue with the truck.
We can do that.


Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
13 on the rev and 14 on the Ballistic sounds mo betta.Did You say You got them used?? Motors do go bad
He geard 13 40 for a heat and came off close to 210-220 if my memory is correct. Wondering now if he's just getting too much wheel spin. BTW he was faster down the straights vs my pro4 4600 geared the same.
ach86 is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 07:33 AM
  #37120  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
chucko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,315
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

man oh man gota love all the love.. FIRST .. 13 tooth pin for small tracks 14 tooth for big .. Fly sky radios.. attention all... when they sent the first 1000 units from the other side of the world. before the FAA approved the radio. thats right they had a problem with it sharing freqs. so if you have a spectrum. futuba or airtronics when you standing next to a guy that owns one ..He might have goten the one that has an issue.. way to check is to look at it and see if it has the approved stamp of clearance to be in the united states. at 5 different tracks I run at we check the radios. if it has the stamp your good to go.. if it doesn't have the little faa stamp you good to leave and get it fixed. ok to play but when race time starts they go off. PERIOD. when I take my 2000 buggy truck or what ever car out on the track I dont need no POS causing me to crash i crash all on my own Thanks and now back to regular 13 or 14 tooth camber arms and love this truck I can sit and look at it all day Thanks LOSI
chucko is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 07:52 AM
  #37121  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
eddomak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 531
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default Signs your diff needs servicing?

Tonight I just opened up the front diffs to install the HD outdrives, and was pleased to see that all the diff fluid was still in there from when I first put it in last October. (I only use the truck for around 2 hours a week).It was all black though...

When I put it all back together with the same weight diff fluid, it seemed to have more resistance (but not a sign of bad assembly) than when I took it apart.

So my questions are:
1) When do you know your diff needs servicing? Are there any external signs/indicators?

2) What colour should the fluid be?

Thanks!
eddomak is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 08:12 AM
  #37122  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
Tonight I just opened up the front diffs to install the HD outdrives, and was pleased to see that all the diff fluid was still in there from when I first put it in last October. (I only use the truck for around 2 hours a week).It was all black though...

When I put it all back together with the same weight diff fluid, it seemed to have more resistance (but not a sign of bad assembly) than when I took it apart.

So my questions are:
1) When do you know your diff needs servicing? Are there any external signs/indicators?

if you feel your car thrusting easier then it did after a race or two

2) What colour should the fluid be? if its black i normally change it out

Thanks!
hope that helps a bit
BlackStarRacing is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 08:23 AM
  #37123  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
 
ach86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chucko View Post
man oh man gota love all the love.. FIRST .. 13 tooth pin for small tracks 14 tooth for big .. Fly sky radios.. attention all... when they sent the first 1000 units from the other side of the world. before the FAA approved the radio. thats right they had a problem with it sharing freqs. so if you have a spectrum. futuba or airtronics when you standing next to a guy that owns one ..He might have goten the one that has an issue.. way to check is to look at it and see if it has the approved stamp of clearance to be in the united states. at 5 different tracks I run at we check the radios. if it has the stamp your good to go.. if it doesn't have the little faa stamp you good to leave and get it fixed. ok to play but when race time starts they go off. PERIOD. when I take my 2000 buggy truck or what ever car out on the track I dont need no POS causing me to crash i crash all on my own Thanks and now back to regular 13 or 14 tooth camber arms and love this truck I can sit and look at it all day Thanks LOSI
Really like this idea of checking the radio for the stamp.
ach86 is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 08:57 AM
  #37124  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
chucko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,315
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default rebuilding diffs

if you want to be consistent and win. I would rebuild diffs after each race.. normal guys 2 hrs of running.. if your racing if the grease or oil is black thats a good sign its working.. if your running your truck at the same track when it starts doing things that it didnt do =before that would be a good sign its time to rebuild, running in dirt,... its also a good thing to check every bearing about once a month or after an hr of running or when you notice things heating up..any binding issue will hurt performance and handling.

Last edited by chucko; 07-17-2012 at 09:10 AM. Reason: spelllling
chucko is offline  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:09 AM
  #37125  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
chucko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,315
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

another interesting thing about shock oil and diff oil.. if its gray the shock oil you know its right. if its clear or the color you put in it ,its not working right and the oil is wrong for the car or truck. when it changes color then you know its working right.. I did some testing with some shocks ran it for 3 days of racing so that would be 6 bat packs in a day practice and racing 2 or 3 heats and a ten min main. if the shock oil came out gray and the truck got me to the podium this is good. you can tell by the way it handles when it gets loose on the track and starts going the wrong way on the straight it time to check things out.. thicker diff oils like 753 will also raise temps then 235 or 335 I tested and found grease works better for temps in hot weather for motor temps. grease also stops the leaking problems. running 752 diff oil my motor temps went up to 180. grease 140. Love my temp gun.
chucko is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.