TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

sad thing is...I ordered from the HK warehouse pry 2 weeks ago around the holiday and still haven't gotten them! SwissPost shows they cleared customs in Jamaica, NY so hoping to see them within the next few days

Jake C6R

iTrader: (8)

And they also got the 4's for my buggy - just 2 weeks after I got them from China, of course...LOL

Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 4S 65~130C Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Bout to order some 6600 nanos and a battery for my starter box.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

kinda excited to get them but then i'll have 2 junk batteries that i cant use cuz when i get them i will be doin the esc direct wire to the bullets for the battery and picked up the Duratrax bullets for $2 this weekend. But now i'll have to off my 2S 40c Gens Ace and start goin to the bullet connected batteries!

We will see if i still get the warm wires/connectors and hopefully not melt the pack but i knew that goin into this but i want decent batteries w/o breaking the bank since i dont race or have sponsors and money being tight so im selling things to buy things to keep my ADDICTION goin, lol!

Jake C6R

iTrader: (8)

I have been using them for a few months with no issues. I use the Pro-Tek 4mm bullets and no problems. If you know how to take care of them and don't set your low voltage cutoff too low you should not have a problem. Also turn down the current limiter to 70-80 if you are using the RX8/Pro 4 combo

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

You could always solder up an adapter using female bullets. I did this for some other packs and it works fine. But it's not as convenient as bullets every time.

I found out one of the disadvantages of using differing battery packs on the weekend. I tried out moving the battery to the back of the tray and with a "heavy" (6.6 nanotech & others) battery the car handled really nicely. But then I put in my spare "light" (4000mAh) batteries and it handled terribly - front end was too light/vague and rear was swinging wildly.

Since then, I have moved the battery position back to the factory/middle position and lived with the compromise. If all my batteries were the same weight, then I would leave the position in the rearward one.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

I ll bet your bearing in the rear diff is seized

DanielHolloway

That's what happened to me a couple of weekends ago. It was the small bearing inside the diff case that sits up against the pinion. It seized up and gave me some pretty warm temps. Changed it to some Avid bearings during teardown and the temps went immediately back to normal.

nitro_mt_racer

iTrader: (241)

Doesn't feel like it on my truck. I know it's not on the rx8/ballistic combo as I just put 2 new bearings in that one when I rebuilt the rear diff on Friday. I'm gonna change the combos around tomorrow and do some more testing.

RC_Woody

man you guys beat me to tell everyone that nano's are in stock in the US.
I don't know if anybody provided the link though...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=24222

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Just ordered 2 nano 6600's couple hours ago.

Before the bearing seized, did you notice any grittyness to the feel back there?, or did it just happen all of the sudden. I try my best to make sure my bearings are in tip top shape. If there is even a slightly grittyness or sudden stop to them, i'll clean them out completely.

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

From what I understand, if the O ring pushes past the groove in the shaft thats there to hold it in place, it allows the rotor to move forward, thereby throwing the timing off, and seriously raising the heat up, no matter what else you try.

If your motor doesnt have the O ring in it, then its probably one of the newest ones that had that problem rectified.

If you've already temped it up over 210 or so, then its probably toast, and it wont operate right, or at a decent temp anymore.

Its a great motor, I ran it with an RX8 in my Losi for about 3 months before I sold the truck. Its still soldered up to my RX8 sitting in my toolbox, ready to drop right into another vehicle. I ran it at full power ONE time... it was waaaaay more than I needed for the track I was at, so I dialed the EPA down to 80% and left it, it was all I needed.

j_kinz

iTrader: (11)

Just ordered 3 myself. I've been running the nano 6000 65c and love them, just a little close on runtime in a 10min main with a tenshock 4600 geared 13 on a large 1/8 scale track.

socal90

iTrader: (34)

Hey Guys,
I picked up a "lightly" used SCTE a little while ago and I've been working all the little bugs out and getting it dialed in. It seems to me there is a lot of slop or play in the arms. What I mean is, if I grab the axle while the car is on the stand I can shake the arm back and forth about 3 to 5 mm.. Is this normal, or do I have a problem here? If it's a known issue, what is the fix? Thanks

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Yeah i run the tenshock as well and it eats batteries like crazy. Had to order the 6600's, wouldn't feel safe using the 6000's. Even so i've had the batteries dump on me in a race. Think it was really my fault for not balance charging them that time because i was in a hurry, or maybe it was my esc because it has a funky voltage cutoff.