9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
07-13-2012, 01:23 PM
Originally Posted by Casper
Alum rear diff inserts and 5-40 alum nuts were added to options for the SCTE on the TLR site. Check them out.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6311
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR3100
You guys have asked about the alum rear diff inserts and they work great. I have been testing them for a little while now. 5-40 alum nuts are very hard to find and now losi offers some. Another way to take seme weight out of the truck if that is your deal. Great hopup with the titanium screw kit. I believe you need 24 nuts to replace all of them on the truck.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6311
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR3100
You guys have asked about the alum rear diff inserts and they work great. I have been testing them for a little while now. 5-40 alum nuts are very hard to find and now losi offers some. Another way to take seme weight out of the truck if that is your deal. Great hopup with the titanium screw kit. I believe you need 24 nuts to replace all of them on the truck.
07-13-2012, 01:36 PM
Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Do those inserts only work in the rear diff?
07-13-2012, 02:08 PM
Originally Posted by Casper
Alum rear diff inserts and 5-40 alum nuts were added to options for the SCTE on the TLR site. Check them out.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6311
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR3100
You guys have asked about the alum rear diff inserts and they work great. I have been testing them for a little while now. 5-40 alum nuts are very hard to find and now losi offers some. Another way to take seme weight out of the truck if that is your deal. Great hopup with the titanium screw kit. I believe you need 24 nuts to replace all of them on the truck.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6311
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR3100
You guys have asked about the alum rear diff inserts and they work great. I have been testing them for a little while now. 5-40 alum nuts are very hard to find and now losi offers some. Another way to take seme weight out of the truck if that is your deal. Great hopup with the titanium screw kit. I believe you need 24 nuts to replace all of them on the truck.
07-13-2012, 02:31 PM
Originally Posted by TCCustoms
When tear down I'm gonna set mine up off the Dunford 2012' set up and wanted to kno how I would kno how to set up or kno what's what for -1 cAmber up front and that I'm doin it right...I dont kno a lot when it comes to suspension but want to copy this set up and go from there but don't kno what's -1 or -1.5. I'm kinda clueless on this stuff but want to learn while tearing down and rebuilding the truck plus rebuilding the diffs, go to the hd outdrives, and puttin in the new SNR carbon towers and upgrading to the standoffs??
Thanks
Thanks
07-13-2012, 02:45 PM
Originally Posted by TCCustoms
can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction to show me what is what?
This is camber.
We measure it with one of these.
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...odId=LOSA99172
Does this help?
07-13-2012, 03:13 PM
Originally Posted by Casper
This is camber.
We measure it with one of these.
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...odId=LOSA99172
Does this help?
07-13-2012, 03:16 PM
Originally Posted by TCCustoms
yea, i get that much i just meant what holes mean what or when it says -1.5 you always use the gauge to check? i just looking over the sheet studying it but like where it says camber link it says "2" which i get but wasnt sure what if your turning the turnbuckles to get the -1 or if there is a hole change that gets you to those and then fine tweak with turnbuckles. I think i have the rpm monster camber gauge and by looking at pics online since its been so long since used that it does show 1* increments. But i just want to make sure i have the correct hole locations and all...im sure im over analyzing it but id rather be safe then sorry
07-13-2012, 03:19 PM
I tried experimenting by using box stock rear springs in front and fronts in rear. I found cutting a coil off the previously rear springs worked well when using them in front. I find this is a cheap alternative to buying the racing spring sets.
Also, the hobby wing sct pro esc and 4000 kv motor simply kicks ass!!
Also, the hobby wing sct pro esc and 4000 kv motor simply kicks ass!!
07-13-2012, 03:20 PM
Can someone give me the losi part # for a SCTE servo mounting kit(spacers & screws).
Thanks Rob
Thanks Rob
07-13-2012, 03:23 PM
Originally Posted by Casper
Put the camber link in the correct hole (as you can see the holes are identified on the setup sheet and you got that). Then adjust the tie rod to get the static camber you are looking for. Make sure you set your ride hieght first and then adjust the static camber.
07-13-2012, 03:25 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (79)
What are you guys doing about the excessive play and sloppyness that develops in the turnbuckle rod ends?
07-13-2012, 03:26 PM
Originally Posted by AMP-RC
What are you guys doing about the excessive play and sloppyness that develops in the turnbuckle rod ends?
07-13-2012, 03:29 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (79)
Originally Posted by larlev
Just replace with new ends and balls.
07-13-2012, 03:39 PM
Originally Posted by TCCustoms
ok, and ya...be doin ass backawards if i didnt do height first and thanks for reminding me! What is the proper way to set ride height and is there another set-up that would be better for being outdoors or just stick to the Dunfords?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LF2BjgLwXLk
We do ride hieght body off with the SCTE as it is hard to measure with the body.
Originally Posted by AMP-RC
What are you guys doing about the excessive play and sloppyness that develops in the turnbuckle rod ends?
Keeps slop away much longer!
07-13-2012, 03:49 PM
ok, just what i thought...thank you very much! i'll keep studying and looking over my truck as i go until all parts get here and then knock this thing out...got alot of work ahead of me, lol!
