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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-11-2012, 08:41 AM
  #36796  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
Have you tried Falconsekedo i purchased mine from them they are out of cali!
Yeah, That's where I've been looking. Looks like the blue one is out of stock too.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Yes glueing the inserts in is pretty easy to do and the only current work around. It does the job quite well though.
Is there a write up or vid that shows these techniques becuz I am about to swap to my SNR towers and rebuild diffs cuz the rear has been leaking and also bought the hd outdrives for all 3 diffs
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Is there a write up or vid that shows these techniques becuz I am about to swap to my SNR towers and rebuild diffs cuz the rear has been leaking and also bought the hd outdrives for all 3 diffs
Not that I am aware of. If you use the RTV it takes a while to setup and using the gray stuff you can see you get a full seal. I used new diff cases so I knew they were clean but not required. Is a plastic safe motor spray to clean the surfaces well if reusing diff cases. I put a bead of RTV all around the inside of bore of the diff housing and then just pressed in the insert and wipped off the squeeze out. Did not go over board on the wipe and made sure there was a visible gray "line" to bound the insert to the housing and that was it. Let them sit on the table for a few hours for the RTV to cure and rebuild my diffs. If using CA your working time is much shorter but pretty much the same process.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Not that I am aware of. If you use the RTV it takes a while to setup and using the gray stuff you can see you get a full seal. I used new diff cases so I knew they were clean but not required. Is a plastic safe motor spray to clean the surfaces well if reusing diff cases. I put a bead of RTV all around the inside of bore of the diff housing and then just pressed in the insert and wipped off the squeeze out. Did not go over board on the wipe and made sure there was a visible gray "line" to bound the insert to the housing and that was it. Let them sit on the table for a few hours for the RTV to cure and rebuild my diffs. If using CA your working time is much shorter but pretty much the same process.
I used some silicone adhesive I had laying around and have not had a drop leak out since. After wiping off the excess in the inside I run a q-tip through the middle to make sure that none got in there. Make sure they are pushed all the way down and let them dry. I read where some people were using high-temp silicone sealant which is fine if you have it, but any good silicone adhesive will work - the temps don't get high in the case. It doesn't take much to make a good tight seal.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
I used some silicone adhesive I had laying around and have not had a drop leak out since. After wiping off the excess in the inside I run a q-tip through the middle to make sure that none got in there. Make sure they are pushed all the way down and let them dry. I read where some people were using high-temp silicone sealant which is fine if you have it, but any good silicone adhesive will work - the temps don't get high in the case. It doesn't take much to make a good tight seal.
Yep there is not a magic glue to seal these things. Lots of options.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:38 AM
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Anyone know what size the o ring is that goes inside the diff inserts?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SEF
I really enjoy this truck and I got it to where I really like it. Since the MIP kit came out, and with the pictures of left to right balance and forward to back balance pics between stock truck and the MIP truck, I've been experimenting with how to get the most balanced car. What I didn't like about the MIP kit is the diagonal balance. Although the pics suggest the MIP kit is better balanced than stock, the truth is that based on the pics that have come out, the MIP kit is still tweaked.

With the ride height set, I put my truck on the scales, and this is about as perfect as I can get it. I'm curious as to how the tweak is on your truck and what are you doing to get better balance. Also curious with how your front to back weight balance is. As you can see, I put weights in the rear of my truck because it just didn't feel as planted as I would like. I also removed the receiver box and placed the receiver behind the motor. I think this thing would be perfect if I could easily move the motor back a few mm (hint hint for you aftermarket chassis manufacturers - yeah, MIP had a good idea moving the motor back).

If you can't read it the weights are: RL(700.7 g) RR(689.4 g) FL(660.6 g) FR(682.1). 6 lbs w/o body and the truck feels dialed.
Hey just an update on the MIP weight on all 4 corners The original photo was of a proto chassis and since then the pockets have been changed and thus creating a more balanced design. Here is a full production kit all set up.

RF: 528.7 LF: 516.2 RR: 615.0 LR: 616.0 Grams
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-mip-pro4-weight.jpg  
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
Hey just an update on the MIP weight on all 4 corners The original photo was of a proto chassis and since then the pockets have been changed and thus creating a more balanced design. Here is a full production kit all set up.

RF: 528.7 LF: 516.2 RR: 615.0 LR: 616.0 Grams

What is that counterning the right rear. An onboard temp guage? What does that weigh?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
What is that counterning the right rear. An onboard temp guage? What does that weigh?
After watching round 5 of JBRL, I'd say its a supercharger. Or its an MIP TG-3 onboard temp guage with a blue case
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by nismomike
After watching round 5 of JBRL, I'd say its a supercharger. Or its an MIP TG-3 onboard temp guage with a blue case
That is what I thought. I dont' think those weigh much but it is balancing out the rear end some. Expensive counter weight! LOL

Matt has been on a tear lately for sure.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
Hey just an update on the MIP weight on all 4 corners The original photo was of a proto chassis and since then the pockets have been changed and thus creating a more balanced design. Here is a full production kit all set up.

RF: 528.7 LF: 516.2 RR: 615.0 LR: 616.0 Grams
Nice. It's nice that the production kit is much more balanced, especially since MIP started from a clean slate and had the liberty to place the components in any location they wanted.

I want to try one now
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
That is what I thought. I dont' think those weigh much but it is balancing out the rear end some. Expensive counter weight! LOL

Matt has been on a tear lately for sure.
I'm guessing that he got a good deal on it.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nismomike
After watching round 5 of JBRL, I'd say its a supercharger. Or its an MIP TG-3 onboard temp guage with a blue case
Hahah you got that right lol yes temp gauge with a blue case they all come in black though.

Also to answer Caspers question its 13 grams which is less than .5 ounces : 1 ounce = 28.3 grams (courtesy of google )

Maybe put one on the speedo to counder the front left lol
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
Hahah you got that right lol yes temp gauge with a blue case they all come in black though.

Also to answer Caspers question its 13 grams which is less than .5 ounces : 1 ounce = 28.3 grams (courtesy of google )

Maybe put one on the speedo to counder the front left lol
I figured it was not much. That is two lead squares though. Helping out those that want to copy your setup!
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
Anyone know what size the o ring is that goes inside the diff inserts?
Bump
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