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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-27-2012, 04:58 PM
  #36121  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
I was trying to decide on a new motor for my truck. It seems the 550 can motors tend to be a bit harsh on our lipos and runtime can be short. The Tekin Pro 4 just runs too hot from what I have seen. I am trying to decide between the Castle 1410 and the Hobbywing 4000kv. For those that have run both, what are your thoughts on the two?

I recently saw a couple of guys at the Midwest Nitro Series running the Castle 1410 and was amazed at the amount of power the little can has. Seemed like they ran pretty cool as well.
I just actually went from the castle 1410 to the hw 4000kv.The difference i noticed right off the bat was how smooth the hw motor is.I cant say how long it will last but it definately rips and its nice running sensored again.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:00 PM
  #36122  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
I was trying to decide on a new motor for my truck. It seems the 550 can motors tend to be a bit harsh on our lipos and runtime can be short. The Tekin Pro 4 just runs too hot from what I have seen. I am trying to decide between the Castle 1410 and the Hobbywing 4000kv. For those that have run both, what are your thoughts on the two?

I recently saw a couple of guys at the Midwest Nitro Series running the Castle 1410 and was amazed at the amount of power the little can has. Seemed like they ran pretty cool as well.
I ran a Novak 550 4.5T and a Tenshock SC411 4600Kv motors and went back too the Castle 1410 cause the Tenshock has more power but eats batteries and the Novak doesnt have the grunt of the 1410 . The Castle runs cooler than either of them as well .

All in all I think the 1410 is still one of the best motors for 4x4 SCT .
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:19 PM
  #36123  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
I was trying to decide on a new motor for my truck. It seems the 550 can motors tend to be a bit harsh on our lipos and runtime can be short. The Tekin Pro 4 just runs too hot from what I have seen. I am trying to decide between the Castle 1410 and the Hobbywing 4000kv. For those that have run both, what are your thoughts on the two?

I recently saw a couple of guys at the Midwest Nitro Series running the Castle 1410 and was amazed at the amount of power the little can has. Seemed like they ran pretty cool as well.
I run all the motors you just listed. Tekin Pro4 (4600), the HW 4000, and Castle 1410 (3800).

From a price to performance standpoint, I think the Castle 1410 is unbeatable. It runs very strong and cool, and is very efficient. It is unsensored only (helps explain heat) and not quite as smooth as the HW4000 IMO. The HW4000 is a great mix of smoothness (sensored), power/performance and value and performance and is the motor. The Tekin Pro4 is another great motor, but a little more pricey and does run quite a bit hotter than the other two but it doesn't seem to bother it at all. I started with the 3800, and switch to the 4600 and noticed a good difference and was always happy with it. It had all the power I could need, and turned down my EPA and punch to smooth it out to better fit my abilities. However, I went to the HW4k as I was really happy with the other HW products and wanted to go with one brand only - so out went the Tekin.

If your only focus is racing, I would highly recommend the HW or Pro4 (though I think I would go with the 4000 vs 4600 if I did it again).

If you do a mix of messing around and are on more of a budget, highly recommend the Castle.

I personally favor the motor I currently run: HW 4000kv.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:24 PM
  #36124  
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Novak Ballistic 550 4.5. Done.

Can't wait to get my hands on the new vented can.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:31 PM
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Ok I have had my losi a little over a year, there is almost every upgrade on this thing. And its a tank, But the rear bumper brace thing STILL sucks A$$!!! I have broken that brace at least 10 times, about 5 of the new ones. I know its a cheap part, I know tbone makes a cool bumper but I dont like the look of it. I am sick of buying a whole bumper set just for the brace thing. Hacker It would be awesome if we could just get that one brace or someone for the love of god make a beefier one PLEASE!!!
ok rant over

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Old 06-27-2012, 05:42 PM
  #36126  
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Try keeping the bumper screws a turn or two loose so there's some play. Works ok for me, but youre still going to bust these things up.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:56 PM
  #36127  
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974 View Post
I bought this truck used. So I have no idea the condition of the chassis when I bought it. I said "Go Team Losi" because when I talked to a few guys with the Tuned TLR Chassis they had the same problem. It wasnt driver error, it was a problem with the chassis.

There was a guy driving next to me and we both looked back on my driving and couldnt see one spot where, even if the screws were coming loose, that I drove badly enough for the chassis to crack.

I still love my SCTE, but will probably go with a different manufactorer for my chassis.

Now to wait for parts
It was not driver error it was mechanics error
It was discussed on this thread if the diff screws were stripped damage would happen to the chassis . If you had a full size truck where the bolts that hold the diff in were lose would you drive it let alone jump it then complain about it ?
Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
I think its hilarious that people act surprised that things on these trucks break. Im surprised mine has held together as well as it has. Its a 6 pound hunk of plastic and aluminum being flown thru the air without wings, every landing is a crash landing, things are going to break.

Here the man who developed the truck and parts is offering to help you, let him.
He said to PM him and he would help you which to my way of thinking he was offering you a new chassis for free or a very reduced price .
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:12 PM
  #36128  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I run and own nano tech 6600's and while they are not quite as good as the Orion Carbon Pro 6500mAH packs, at about 1/2 the price they are the best choice for sure iMO. They are close enough in performance I will be sticking with them in the future; again it's hard not to buy 2 packs instead of just one if you know what I mean
yea, if you can get your hands on them...someone said they were back in stock and looked but didnt see it so got ahold of support and he said they were but you cant add them to the cart if it shows its on backorder so i dunno how to get my hands on some before they sell out again!!!
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:20 PM
  #36129  
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Originally Posted by omenwolf View Post
Ok I have had my losi a little over a year, there is almost every upgrade on this thing. And its a tank, But the rear bumper brace thing STILL sucks A$$!!! I have broken that brace at least 10 times, about 5 of the new ones. I know its a cheap part, I know tbone makes a cool bumper but I dont like the look of it. I am sick of buying a whole bumper set just for the brace thing. Hacker It would be awesome if we could just get that one brace or someone for the love of god make a beefier one PLEASE!!!
ok rant over
Been running this on my rear and never broke a rear bumper again. Once LOSI makes it beefier then maybe I'll take it off but not until then.
http://t-bone-racing.net/Short-Cours...B211-p498.html
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:23 PM
  #36130  
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Originally Posted by omenwolf View Post
Ok I have had my losi a little over a year, there is almost every upgrade on this thing. And its a tank, But the rear bumper brace thing STILL sucks A$$!!! I have broken that brace at least 10 times, about 5 of the new ones. I know its a cheap part, I know tbone makes a cool bumper but I dont like the look of it. I am sick of buying a whole bumper set just for the brace thing. Hacker It would be awesome if we could just get that one brace or someone for the love of god make a beefier one PLEASE!!!
ok rant over
That's weird. I've never broken one of those before. I have broken tons of stock front bumpers and now i run an rpm one. I would just wait for rpm to release their rear bumper for the truck. I imagine it won't have any problems dragging like the front one because the 4 rear diff screws are already occupied by the rpm rear skid plate.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
I would just wait for rpm to release their rear bumper for the truck. I imagine it won't have any problems dragging like the front one because the 4 rear diff screws are already occupied by the rpm rear skid plate.
I have both F & R bumpers from RPM and the only thing about the RPM one is you spend $20 on the bumper and flaps but you use the stock pipe work so if that broke it pry will again with the RPM one if you broke the one on stock...i just went with the RPM due to the angled flaps which i thought were cool and needed a bumper for the conversion anyways

But i do like that T-Bone skid plate idea...
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
I have both F & R bumpers from RPM and the only thing about the RPM one is you spend $20 on the bumper and flaps but you use the stock pipe work so if that broke it pry will again with the RPM one if you broke the one on stock...i just went with the RPM due to the angled flaps which i thought were cool and needed a bumper for the conversion anyways
I had no idea the rpm rear bumper was shipping already. Thought the release date wasn't for another few weeks. Don't know who it was that suggested dremeling out the channels on the front bumper, but i did and i think it will really help the "dragging" problem that the rpm one brings.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:50 PM
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i think that was us...cuz someone thought i was talking about the top of the bumper getting dremeled but i agreed about the bottom if someone had it dragging to dremel it but im a freelancer so its not as big as of a deal to me...
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:51 PM
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I thought it didn't have any dragging problems
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:20 PM
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found the answer....

Last edited by punkracer24; 06-27-2012 at 07:31 PM.
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