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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-19-2012, 02:34 PM
  #35716  
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
IMO (rant on)
2s is fine for SCT 2wd
3s should be the standard for 4wd SCT
If 2s was such a great idea for 4wd then we would not have seen such a move from companies to come out with motors that won't overheat in this porker to the more powerful esc's that are needed (usually an 1/8 scale esc) to the 2s lipos with maximum mah's.
Really... Listen if 2s was such a great idea then we should all be able to just take out our whole electronic setup from our 2wd SCT's and drop it in to your 4wd SCT. We all know that is not the case
The 2s rules have not saved anyone money from both the companies that had to spend money to come out with motors and/or esc's that will work on 2s for this class to the end user who now has to buy the new motors and/or esc's and let's not forget the need for lipos that can deliver a 10min main.
Ok... so what about this 2s rule has saved anyone money racing 4wd SCT's?
And my last point that I will make in this thread about this subject (don't want to forget this is the SCTE thread and not the other thread) IS...
Anyone who wants to stand on the 2s is just fine for these 4wd SCT's is not taking into account the harder strain on their electronics, they are simply not aware and/or knowledgeable about the differences and I feel that is where most of these debates go nowhere. Because the same people just blindly follow what others tell them because they are not willing or just don't have the time to get informed.
My main point here is until someone can tell me they can take out their 2wd SCT electronics and just drop it in their 4wd SCT then just stop it.
Just say it like it is... We are just following the rules that others made wether they make sense or not.
I don't mind following rules when they actually always serve their intended purpose but this rule does not and should not simply be followed because its the rule (rant off).
+100000000

totally agree
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:38 PM
  #35717  
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Originally Posted by myl3s91 View Post
Well I fried a servo that I have been running for a few years, now it is time to get a new one, I did a search on the thread, but no luck other then lots of servo issues lol. What would be the recommended servo for this truck, I see a lot of people using the 7955tg. Is that over kill or is their something similar to it? Help please! Off to the track on Thursday!
I really don't think any servo is overkill in pretty much any vehicle. You really do want as much torque as you can have. The 7955 is a great servo and has very good torque and titanium gears as well. Right now i'm running a hobbico cs-170 277 oz. In. servo and it definitely gets the job done. 333 oz with be plenty for this truck.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:27 PM
  #35718  
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Originally Posted by Djioul View Post
OK, in this case, I guess I'll need that and trim the body to have it fit, will let you know if I try later, thanks for your feedbacks.
If you try this, try the 8ight truggy or buggy body mounts as i had an 810 and went to the SCTE and had my body mounts still available and they are 1/4" to 3/8 short so i slotted the holes in the body but i dont like it and may also order whichever ones look to fit the best. But will see what my LHS guy has instock to compare to.
I have the Jconcepts illuzions 8ight body im working on using as an overtray for bad weather running/damp days and to keep grass outta the esc fan and whatnot but wont be used on hot days as its 94* today and suppose to be 95* tomorrow. I did have to trim(cut off) the nerf bars on the side guards to get the body down but sounds like most people do that either way. The only issue i may run into is the wires coming out of the esc go straight up and hit the 8ight body so might see what i can do there is possible But even on days like today Im not even goin outside now that im outta work, lol. Kickin it in the central air....

AND BACK TO THE BATTERY DISCUSSION, lol...here is the wire i would need if i go the Nanotech 6600(if they ever get back in stock) and its only $9 as the connectors would run me that even tho i would get a few sets of the plugs. These are from TQWIRE.com one of the site sponsors and was checking out the sensor wires they carry as the one from my hobbywing never stays in so i thought about checking into something longer and more flexable
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:09 PM
  #35719  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
AND BACK TO THE BATTERY DISCUSSION, lol...here is the wire i would need if i go the Nanotech 6600(if they ever get back in stock) and its only $9 as the connectors would run me that even tho i would get a few sets of the plugs. These are from TQWIRE.com one of the site sponsors and was checking out the sensor wires they carry as the one from my hobbywing never stays in so i thought about checking into something longer and more flexable
I'm confused - what are you going to use that setup for? Charging? Or in your truck?

If charging, then I would reconsider - because the Nanotech comes with the same wire (though with the banana vs 'bullet') minus the TRX plug. When you order your Nanotechs, you can just add on some of those TRX clone connectors for super cheap. You'd get the same thing for about $8.50 less.

If in the truck, then I would also reconsider - because (A) it would leave the balance extension in your truck which is a pain and (B) it introduces another (TRX) connector in your truck. Ideally you just want to wire the bullet/banana connectors directly onto your ESC wires and forgo that intermediate adapter that you're proposing. So much cleaner and easier that way. Also less resistance than having two connectors. Otherwise, you might as well just stick with the 4mm banana plugs that come with the batter, as it will outperform the two combined TRX and bullet connector.

You could just buy two banana/bullets of your choice and not worry about any more connectors.

Last edited by goehm; 06-19-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:12 PM
  #35720  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
AND BACK TO THE BATTERY DISCUSSION, lol...here is the wire i would need if i go the Nanotech 6600(if they ever get back in stock) and its only $9 as the connectors would run me that even tho i would get a few sets of the plugs. These are from TQWIRE.com one of the site sponsors and was checking out the sensor wires they carry as the one from my hobbywing never stays in so i thought about checking into something longer and more flexable
You don't have to run those TRX-style connectors, if you don't want to..
Instead, you can cut off that TRX connector, and solder the pos (+) and neg (-) lead, directly onto your ESC, by unsoldering the battery leads, that are currently on there... Presumably, another TRX lead lol

The less connections you have, the least amount of resistance and [possible] heat, there is to worry about!


Ps, TQ Wire is the shit
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:13 PM
  #35721  
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I'm confused - what are you going to use that setup for? Charging? Or in your truck?

If charging, then I would reconsider - because the Nanotech comes with the same wire (though with the banana vs 'bullet') minus the TRX plug. When you order your Nanotechs, you can just add on some of those TRX clone connectors for super cheap. You'd get the same thing for about $8.50 less.

If in the truck, then I would also reconsider - because (A) it would leave the balance extension in your truck which is a pain and (B) it introduces another (TRX) connector in your truck. Ideally you just want to wire the bullet/banana connectors directly onto your ESC wires and forgo that intermediate adapter that you're proposing. So much cleaner and easier that way.

You could just buy two banana/bullets of your choice and not worry about any more connectors.
He may have other batteries that have a TRX connector that he uses with the truck.
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:50 PM
  #35722  
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Originally Posted by scracer68 View Post
He may have other batteries that have a TRX connector that he uses with the truck.
spank you, spank you very much....As i do have (2) Gens Ace 40c 5000mah batteries that work great for now but have been getting warm and wonder how much longer they will last but it may be just me as getting nervous but i kno when i run them they get warm, so do the esc/battery wires and the pack puffs....dunno how much is good or bad for puffing but i personally dont like any, lol. Never had this issue with my Slash4x4 with the gens ace so thats why i was thinking about goin to a higher C rating and bigger pack to make up for the higher discharge rate

But ive been talking to Hobbywing via email and they said that even tho its sensored, the timing still works even tho according to the online programming card specs it does not and he said he got online and saw that it said that and he was going to have it removed so maybe i'll turn the timing down and also try that to see if it helps with the battery/wire heat issue
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:08 PM
  #35723  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
spank you, spank you very much....As i do have (2) Gens Ace 40c 5000mah batteries that work great for now but have been getting warm and wonder how much longer they will last but it may be just me as getting nervous but i kno when i run them they get warm, so do the esc/battery wires and the pack puffs....dunno how much is good or bad for puffing but i personally dont like any, lol. Never had this issue with my Slash4x4 with the gens ace so thats why i was thinking about goin to a higher C rating and bigger pack to make up for the higher discharge rate

But ive been talking to Hobbywing via email and they said that even tho its sensored, the timing still works even tho according to the online programming card specs it does not and he said he got online and saw that it said that and he was going to have it removed so maybe i'll turn the timing down and also try that to see if it helps with the battery/wire heat issue
I have that problem with my GensAce 40c packs. I have a GensAce 50c and a 65c that don't swell. My 65-135c nano's swell as much as my 40c GensAce. I have 3 Promatch 25c lipo's that don't swell at all in my SCTE and don't get warmer than the high c packs? Go figure...
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:10 PM
  #35724  
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Originally Posted by scracer68 View Post
You know it's funy, I have 13 2 cell lipo's from ProMatch, Gens Ace, Nano Techs. I have 5 Promatch, 3- 5000mah 25c and 2- 6800mah 65c. I run all of these in a SCTE and an 810E and the Ptomatch Lipo's don't swell at all. Even all 3 25c packs don't swell or get to hot. The 6600mah 65-135c nano's swell the worst out of any of them but it's still not bad.
Same here....I have almost the exact same lipo inventory.

Side note.....not sure where all this bullet connector talk has come from. Been running the standard connectors like on the Nano's without a single issue with heat or melting.
Very interesting how some have problems
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:13 PM
  #35725  
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
If you honestly think the Stock Chassis is up to the task, Your Seriously mistaken. It will tweak if you look at it funny. So Imo some form of Aftermarket chassis IS needed.
Hmmm, we all ran just fine for many months on stocker when truck first came out. I know many guys still running stock chassis and doing quite well.
IMO, no need to replace until it breaks....if it ever does
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:15 PM
  #35726  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Same here....I have almost the exact same lipo inventory.

Side note.....not sure where all this bullet connector talk has come from. Been running the standard connectors like on the Nano's without a single issue with heat or melting.
Very interesting how some have problems
Yeah i'm doing the same thing with no problems. My batteries get warm but not hot. I admit castle bullets would be better but the stock ones work fine.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:43 PM
  #35727  
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
Truck can be run with stock chassis, just as truck can be run with 2S LiPo.

Yet this past weekend at my track two SCTE racers using 2S had wires come unsoldered from their connectors because of excess current draw. No one running the stock chassis (3 or 4 people) had their chassis bend.

So I'd say an aftermarket chassis is needed less than a high voltage, low current battery/motor setup.

Last weekend someone bent their aftermarket Bump chassis. Aftermarket is better, but not bulletproof and people do get along with the stock chassis:
Bob didn't bend his chassis . He thought he did because his new body did not line up correctly on the body posts . It turned out he bent the body mounts .
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:04 PM
  #35728  
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is this the promatch that thou speak of? Even tho its a 30C now...

Promatch 30C 2S Lipo
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:24 PM
  #35729  
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Originally Posted by Dano628 View Post
Bob didn't bend his chassis . He thought he did because his new body did not line up correctly on the body posts . It turned out he bent the body mounts .
Yep, true story
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:26 PM
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I just ran my Tenshock 4600 with an RX8 in my SCTE for the first time tonight. With Nanotech 50c batteries there was no overheating of the batteries, they stayed around 90F. Not sure why you guys are having issues.
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