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Old 06-17-2012, 11:31 AM
  #35626  
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This is probably a dumb question but has anyone trimmed the side bumpers? They really don't seem to do much other than get in the way. Even bashing, I've never hit them. I'm going to trim the rear bumper down as well
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:34 AM
  #35627  
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Default Body Holes for Hi Perf Body TLR8060

Question for you guys regarding the mounting holes for the Hi Performance body. Are you lining up the body so that the front of the shell shell goes just in front of the bumper? It looks like it won't have enough room to drop in behind it after the holes are in.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:10 PM
  #35628  
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I usually line up the rear axle centered to the quarter panel. My front bumper gets altered everytime I hit the track.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:11 PM
  #35629  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
What brand battery do you run...my gens ace are getting hot and puffing at 40c and set on 3 or 4 for punch??

Also, does anyone think dropping to a 13 or even 12t pinion would help with the hot batteries even tho right now motor ran at 160* and esc was 110* and it was 90* ...I kno gearing helps control motor/esc temps but didn't kno if it would help with the battery/battery/esc leads being hot/warm to
I'm running the nano tech 6000. once i get it all running i will let you know how they go.

Cheers
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:25 PM
  #35630  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
What brand battery do you run...my gens ace are getting hot and puffing at 40c and set on 3 or 4 for punch??

Also, does anyone think dropping to a 13 or even 12t pinion would help with the hot batteries even tho right now motor ran at 160* and esc was 110* and it was 90* ...I kno gearing helps control motor/esc temps but didn't kno if it would help with the battery/battery/esc leads being hot/warm to
To go down on temps, go down 5% on current limit if you have a RX8. I run between 60% to 80% depending on track surface and gearing.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Honu
I usually line up the rear axle centered to the quarter panel. My front bumper gets altered everytime I hit the track.
Ha ha me too! I got it. Just need to get all the Swiss cheese holes cut out of this body. After all this cutting the darn thing better not crack first time out! LOL
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:29 PM
  #35632  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
Ha ha me too! I got it. Just need to get all the Swiss cheese holes cut out of this body. After all this cutting the darn thing better not crack first time out! LOL
Dremel, no lexan scissors.. and shoe goo the inner edges of the holes/areas that you dremel-out

Never have another crack again! Well, at least not until you have to call the plumber
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:09 PM
  #35633  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
So not needed... I race w/ stock shocks on a large outdoor track w/ motoxross style jumps with no issues at all. The stock shocks are designed for the truck and can easily supply the needed dampening and performance. If you just like spending money and fooling around fine, but bigger shocks won't reduce even a fraction of a second to your lap times. I have 8ight shocks my my 810e, they are fine... but they do like those others add weight and force you to buy the larger shock towers that DO break easier or do the 8ight droop pad mod (best choice imo) in order to keep the appropriate droop on the vehicle.

Sorry enough talk, I just wanted to make sure people knew this wasn't a mod that was going to help w/ lap times.

X2

Originally Posted by billjacobs
I forgot to mention 1 more thing, if you will be using the 1/8 shocks, mount the shock bottoms behind the rear arms. Putting them into the stock location inside the arm puts an awkward angle on the shock.
I dont recommend this.


Originally Posted by thegame7
This is probably a dumb question but has anyone trimmed the side bumpers? They really don't seem to do much other than get in the way. Even bashing, I've never hit them. I'm going to trim the rear bumper down as well

I dont run the side bumper's Nor does anyone at our track. Imo all they do is get in the way and collect dirt. yes cut the rear down as well, It will definitely help with the rear of the body cracking.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:13 PM
  #35634  
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Originally Posted by scracer68
No, they take the place of the square aluminum blocks and small shims inside of the diff cups.
Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
They replace the square aluminum blocks at each end of the diff pins.
thanks guys, I did'nt think of that. I couldn't quite tell what they where. I guess they are smaller than what I was thinking they looked like.

So I assume it prevents the teeny tiny washers from etching into the blocks? or do they fit better so the diff go together easier? I know if you don't get those square blocks all the down and pushed all the way out, your diff will not be smooth when you put it back together.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by electricRCrocks
To go down on temps, go down 5% on current limit if you have a RX8. I run between 60% to 80% depending on track surface and gearing.
i have the HW SCT Pro and my punch is stock @ 5 but im down to either 3 or 4 outta 9 to try and get temps down on the battery/esc and their wires as the motor(160*ish) and esc(110*ish) temp out good.

But i think it was best explained by 8ight-E as i have nitro finger and coming out of corners you just romp the throttle and let it fly and i think that is def bringing my temps up on the battery as the punch setting on the HW is the initial trigger pull and not a CL like the RX8 to where you cut the power down
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:30 PM
  #35636  
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Originally Posted by weavty1
Dremel, no lexan scissors.. and shoe goo the inner edges of the holes/areas that you dremel-out

Never have another crack again! Well, at least not until you have to call the plumber
Oh yeah using the dremel - hoped to finish but the battery needs a recharge.

A steadier hand would help as well! Got a couple of "oops" spots here and there on some of the slots...

Do you use the tape and shoe goo or just a layer of shoe goo by itself?
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:49 PM
  #35637  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
What brand battery do you run...my gens ace are getting hot and puffing at 40c and set on 3 or 4 for punch??

Also, does anyone think dropping to a 13 or even 12t pinion would help with the hot batteries even tho right now motor ran at 160* and esc was 110* and it was 90* ...I kno gearing helps control motor/esc temps but didn't kno if it would help with the battery/battery/esc leads being hot/warm to
If You can swing it, move up to higher - C- rating batteries.Truck is heavy and pulls what little punch it can from a 40c.I would say 50 min, 60- to 70 c would be ideal....
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:55 PM
  #35638  
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ok, thanks BMAIN...i was hoping that dropping the punch would help with the draw but guess not but yea...got excited and ordered the SNR CR towers when i should have ordered a few batteries! Might get a nanotech in the 65c and maybe try a gens ace in the 60c and see what i like since the gens ace so far have been awesome for me w.o any hiccups

Originally Posted by Jake C6R
Oh yeah using the dremel - hoped to finish but the battery needs a recharge.

A steadier hand would help as well! Got a couple of "oops" spots here and there on some of the slots...

Do you use the tape and shoe goo or just a layer of shoe goo by itself?
I use both and even a thin coat of the shoegoo will do wonders
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:11 PM
  #35639  
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u need the best battery u can get. 90C orion 6500 would do the job.
u have to keep the voltage up.as soon as voltage drops the amps go up and that is when u have problems. volts X amps =watts.
short wires;high strand count;good solder. mine is working good now and i dont limit the current at all. tinning the wire properly is paramount.rx8 with 4600 pro4
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:12 PM
  #35640  
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Default Hi Perf Body Done!

Originally Posted by weavty1
Dremel, no lexan scissors.. and shoe goo the inner edges of the holes/areas that you dremel-out

Never have another crack again! Well, at least not until you have to call the plumber
Go this one done, another will be done next weekend! All the cutouts are done, and got them somewhat straight - just don't look too close!

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