Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.


Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside

Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)

Thanks Sir for the tid bits that was nice of you.

Don't know who it was on this thread that posted pics of his new hi performance tlr sct body. How does it compare to a flo-tek or high flow body? After seeing how the back of the lexan could be cut out i think i'm sold on the tlr. I need a new body BAD!!!!

There is not much you can do to cover stuff up and not add heat. My point is the motor will run forever at 160-180. Randy Pike even said 200 is not out of the question but that is too hot for me. You could cut out a scoop in the under shell to direct air back at the motor. I normally don't run in very dirty areas so no something I adressed. Just clean my car when I do go out and play in the dirt.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)

There were reports earlier in the thread that the new HF body was helping with motor or ESC temps and helped the truck fly better to. Sounds like a win win!

I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
Other than the slop in the out drives... It's a very good car..
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)

There is not much you can do to cover stuff up and not add heat. My point is the motor will run forever at 160-180. Randy Pike even said 200 is not out of the question but that is too hot for me. You could cut out a scoop in the under shell to direct air back at the motor. I normally don't run in very dirty areas so no something I adressed. Just clean my car when I do go out and play in the dirt.
Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside

I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
My top item wish list hasn't changed
- further updated rear bumper (little more material)
- smart diff's
- low cog adjustable lightened battery tray
- front universal center drive shaft

I was hoping for a even better rear bumper.. guess that will be shelved as the new underbody's roll first :P
My top item wish list hasn't changed
My top item wish list hasn't changed
- further updated rear bumper (little more material)
- smart diff's
- low cog adjustable lightened battery tray
- front universal center drive shaft
I wore out a rear bumper before I actually broke one. I know the first batch were bad but we are on v3 of that thing
I don't see a smart diff ever happening. Don't work right in electric cars IMO. At least I never liked it on my 8ight-E.
New battery tray..... It would be a neat idea.
Universal shafts. Like the Eight?

Interseting list.
I wore out a rear bumper before I actually broke one. I know the first batch were bad but we are on v3 of that thing
I don't see a smart diff ever happening. Don't work right in electric cars IMO. At least I never liked it on my 8ight-E.
New battery tray..... It would be a neat idea.
Universal shafts. Like the Eight?
I wore out a rear bumper before I actually broke one. I know the first batch were bad but we are on v3 of that thing
I don't see a smart diff ever happening. Don't work right in electric cars IMO. At least I never liked it on my 8ight-E.
New battery tray..... It would be a neat idea.
Universal shafts. Like the Eight?
I always liked the smart diff in the center only on my 8ight, figured on this truck it would work well in the center and front but it's just a wish list, not needed.
Battery tray update would rock
Yup universal shafts like the 8ight,, maybe get a little longer on the center shaft pins :P Even w/ the dual bearing king headz virtually eliminating the wobble, they wear pretty fast.
Just a thoguht.. at this point... w/ the TLR chassis it should be made with NO nitro cut outs making COG even lower. The 810 should only be out as a 810e going after the big indoor 1/8 buggy guys iMO and at least from what I can tell the nitro ten-t and 810 are going away anyway. No point in leaving it set for either (nitro or elec), if you know what I mean. I've personally witnessed a very good driver crack the current TLR scte chassis, granted it will most likely be covered.. the versions w/o cut outs would never crack.