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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-13-2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
It has to be diff cups !
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
does it have to do with bearings and outdrives????????
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
150-160 is not hot for these motors.
Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
There is not much you can do to cover stuff up and not add heat. My point is the motor will run forever at 160-180. Randy Pike even said 200 is not out of the question but that is too hot for me. You could cut out a scoop in the under shell to direct air back at the motor. I normally don't run in very dirty areas so no something I adressed. Just clean my car when I do go out and play in the dirt.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:13 PM
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Thanks Sir for the tid bits that was nice of you.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:20 PM
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Don't know who it was on this thread that posted pics of his new hi performance tlr sct body. How does it compare to a flo-tek or high flow body? After seeing how the back of the lexan could be cut out i think i'm sold on the tlr. I need a new body BAD!!!!
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
There is not much you can do to cover stuff up and not add heat. My point is the motor will run forever at 160-180. Randy Pike even said 200 is not out of the question but that is too hot for me. You could cut out a scoop in the under shell to direct air back at the motor. I normally don't run in very dirty areas so no something I adressed. Just clean my car when I do go out and play in the dirt.
The losi body had a scoop ,small tho , near motor and esc but still not enough air flow thru body . To cool them down. I gave up on it with the snr graphite chassis u can't run the factory side deflectors tho I did mod the front of them to be reused.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano628 View Post
It has to be diff cups !
Col. Hans Landa: [giddy] Oooh, that's a bingo!
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:50 PM
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There were reports earlier in the thread that the new HF body was helping with motor or ESC temps and helped the truck fly better to. Sounds like a win win!
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:18 PM
  #35470  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
Why would you release the car with such bad diffs? I raced a lst2 for 3 years.... That thing was bullet proof... Except for top arms.. In the scte 50% of the problems would be solved with tighter tolerances on the out drives..? I've remade a few of the parts and have had no problems with leaking diffs... Very poor choice to be running grease in the diffs stock!!!!

Other than the slop in the out drives... It's a very good car..
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii View Post
There were reports earlier in the thread that the new HF body was helping with motor or ESC temps and helped the truck fly better to. Sounds like a win win!
Going to finish painting mine tonight. I will have it out on the track in a few days and report back.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
There is not much you can do to cover stuff up and not add heat. My point is the motor will run forever at 160-180. Randy Pike even said 200 is not out of the question but that is too hot for me. You could cut out a scoop in the under shell to direct air back at the motor. I normally don't run in very dirty areas so no something I adressed. Just clean my car when I do go out and play in the dirt.
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Not saying it is but what I am saying is if I normally run only 160 within 8min of running
But with buggy body added I hit 154 (actually) in 3 min . My guess is the motor is running hottER than it was without. For me it wasn't worth the added wear /heat using it here since its still getting dirt inside
810 buggy body works great to keep mud etc off if you have some bad running conditions. I don't run it all the time but I run a 810 body with both the nitro holes cut out and it bearly changes my running temps.. maybe a degree or two. Well worth having the underbody up here in the north east.. rain and crap one day nice the next. jlfx as casper and Randy said most rotors don't start to demagnitize until you break that 200' line.. each motor will very some as to how far over 200, but other than those new rotors from novak they all start breaking down at that point. I read those new rotors can take up to 250ish and be good.. but who knows for sure.
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I got T1 samples already and need to make one small mod which should be done next week. Then testing for 1-2 weeks. Then I can say what it is and give an ETA. I am going to try to get them fast tracked though as I know everyone will want them especially given the discussions as of late. thats the only hint I will give.
I was hoping for a even better rear bumper.. guess that will be shelved as the new underbody's roll first :P


My top item wish list hasn't changed
  • further updated rear bumper (little more material)
  • smart diff's
  • low cog adjustable lightened battery tray
  • front universal center drive shaft
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I was hoping for a even better rear bumper.. guess that will be shelved as the new underbody's roll first :P


My top item wish list hasn't changed
  • further updated rear bumper (little more material)
  • smart diff's
  • low cog adjustable lightened battery tray
  • front universal center drive shaft
Interseting list.

I wore out a rear bumper before I actually broke one. I know the first batch were bad but we are on v3 of that thing

I don't see a smart diff ever happening. Don't work right in electric cars IMO. At least I never liked it on my 8ight-E.
New battery tray..... It would be a neat idea.
Universal shafts. Like the Eight?
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Interseting list.

I wore out a rear bumper before I actually broke one. I know the first batch were bad but we are on v3 of that thing

I don't see a smart diff ever happening. Don't work right in electric cars IMO. At least I never liked it on my 8ight-E.
New battery tray..... It would be a neat idea.
Universal shafts. Like the Eight?
Ya the newer ones are 100x better than the old bumpers but they can still break even with out flips.. just hard landings coming down wrong... of course this is on 1/8 size tracks with motoxross style jumps :P Though I must admit running the xerun 4-pole 4000kv motor I can actually adjust mid air way better than all other motors I've ever put in my scte. Similar top speeds, stays cool but has top of class serious power. It has my thumbs up.

I always liked the smart diff in the center only on my 8ight, figured on this truck it would work well in the center and front but it's just a wish list, not needed.

Battery tray update would rock

Yup universal shafts like the 8ight,, maybe get a little longer on the center shaft pins :P Even w/ the dual bearing king headz virtually eliminating the wobble, they wear pretty fast.


Just a thoguht.. at this point... w/ the TLR chassis it should be made with NO nitro cut outs making COG even lower. The 810 should only be out as a 810e going after the big indoor 1/8 buggy guys iMO and at least from what I can tell the nitro ten-t and 810 are going away anyway. No point in leaving it set for either (nitro or elec), if you know what I mean. I've personally witnessed a very good driver crack the current TLR scte chassis, granted it will most likely be covered.. the versions w/o cut outs would never crack.
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