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Old 06-02-2012, 08:09 PM
  #34936  
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Originally Posted by MattP
Is that tapped into the battery leads at the esc?

So just tap into the power at the battery, then pull the red pin from the esc receiver plug and that's it?

Sorry for all the questions but this is my first time having to use a external BEC.

Thanks,
Matt

You got it, there will be a lead coming from the external BEC that needs to be plugged into an open spot on your receiver.
you can plug it in the bind or the AUX slot.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:20 PM
  #34937  
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I'm running 5-5-2 right now and it handles well. I would like more off power steering though. Any ideas on replacement oils to get more off power steering without sacraficing on power steering?
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:20 PM
  #34938  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
when you put the 15T in and got the blinking lights, what do the blinking lights signify?
It was the same as the other guy that posted some pages back...demagnTized motor, overload or something...I think it had 3 things it could be and options were get rid of motor, go to easier gearing and something else. Sorry I'm not much help but paperwork isn't with me at the Ya, that's what logo I want if u can send that or have Nick send it, whatever works!
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:56 PM
  #34939  
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Originally Posted by mozzy
A friend of mine has the OAFNA SC and it throws off his CG, do you not have this problem?
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:13 PM
  #34940  
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp
A friend of mine has the OAFNA SC and it throws off his CG, do you not have this problem?
I use to run the Ofna cars the trick to there battery tray is getting a dremal and cut out side so battery lays flat makes handling a lot better.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:46 PM
  #34941  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I'm running 5-5-2 right now and it handles well. I would like more off power steering though. Any ideas on replacement oils to get more off power steering without sacraficing on power steering?
Others guys feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but I could swear uping the front diff oil would help with that, say 7-5-3 or 7-5-2
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:16 AM
  #34942  
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Originally Posted by Khwilliams
Others guys feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but I could swear uping the front diff oil would help with that, say 7-5-3 or 7-5-2
Upping the front oil helps with corner exit steering on power. The best thing I did for off power steering was remove the long chassis brace and put the stocker back on.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:01 AM
  #34943  
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Originally Posted by CaptCarnage
Changed to diff fluid 3 races ago. Just noticed a grinding noise from the rear diff during hard breaking only. Rolls great forward and back. sounds fine when under power in forward. Sounds like ring and pinion skipping but dont know why it would start doing it now? The truck is a little over 2 months old and has been raced only about 10 times, no bashing. took the rear apart but didnt see anything falling apart, loose or metal shavings anywhere. Ideas?
The sound IS the ring and pinion gear, but the CAUSE is the bearings. Under braking the shaft on the pinion moves the gear enough to hear it meshing wrong with the ring gear. (Just had to change mine yesterday) As long as you didn't let it go too long you should only have to replace the bearings.
Cheers,
JT
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:27 AM
  #34944  
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Originally Posted by MOE
You got it, there will be a lead coming from the external BEC that needs to be plugged into an open spot on your receiver.
you can plug it in the bind or the AUX slot.
Thanks for the help. I will get the BEC ordered and get this thing going this week.......
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:48 AM
  #34945  
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Originally Posted by racene1
The sound IS the ring and pinion gear, but the CAUSE is the bearings. Under braking the shaft on the pinion moves the gear enough to hear it meshing wrong with the ring gear. (Just had to change mine yesterday) As long as you didn't let it go too long you should only have to replace the bearings.
Cheers,
JT
Also check your pinion bearings to make youve got the right ones in there. I put a 5x10 in there with another proper 5x11 and was grinding through 2 qualifiers until the third tear down and 5th set of eyes spotted it.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:26 AM
  #34946  
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so should i just order the trick parts screw set?
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:40 AM
  #34947  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I have the bce and it is great. Pretty stiff chassis and i like it that way. I've also heard the kingheads chassis is pretty good as well.
Thanks, thinking the Bump from Nitrohouse because I can get the TLR tuning kit, RPM front bump, rear chassis gaurds, and some mod 1 pinions all together. We'll see, I kinda wanted the BCE, I have today to decide....
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:53 AM
  #34948  
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Originally Posted by vw addict
Thanks, thinking the Bump from Nitrohouse because I can get the TLR tuning kit, RPM front bump, rear chassis gaurds, and some mod 1 pinions all together. We'll see, I kinda wanted the BCE, I have today to decide....
Bump chassis is great if you get it, great vehicle balance.. snag the long chassis brace (derlin) from them,, truck handles better with.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:17 AM
  #34949  
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Did some repairs and improvements..

Installed new HA Pivot balls and new rod ends because of worn stock parts. Some of the stock pivot balls were so worn they would fall out of the rod end when removed from the truck :shock:

RPM Front Bumper. Broke the stock bumper and found a good deal on the RPM. I like it.

Got the Front Racing Spring Kit, installed the black spring.

Cut the sideguards. I cracked the left sideguard along the spot where the nerf bar attaches so I figured it was the perfect opportunity to do this mod.

Went to 35wt front and 30wt rear oils, emulsion style setup.





Next on the list, a new body (I like the Tundra Flo-Tek), rear racing spring kit and the piston kit.

I've been contemplating converting it to a 1/8 buggy TBH. Dunno why but I am lusting over eighth buggies right now...
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:46 AM
  #34950  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
when you put the 15T in and got the blinking lights, what do the blinking lights signify?
OK, got the papers out and it says "when green/red light blink when throttle is in the neutral range" - Over current protection, motor demagnatized, or motor is overload
Solutions - Reduce Load(use softer gear ratio or reduce input voltate) or change motor

So of course being a new kit i wasnt replacing the motor as it is new and my only motor at the moment and i had bought a 14T when i bought my 12mm hexes and axles so figured what the hey

And anyone can help but if i swap out axles and the 12mm hexes...are those the pins that people were talking about when using chain breaks and what not? Just didnt sound like fun...
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