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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-22-2012, 02:10 PM
  #34396  
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Hey Guys. I don't get to race a lot, but I only run at my local track, no bashing! But I will be racing in the Shortcourse Showdown in October. Here is my current set up any more must haves?

SCTE First Run (bought it first week of release)

Losi:
Lightened HD Outdrives (all 3 diffs)
Hard Ano Servo Saver Tube
TLR Alum. Servo Horn

STRC:
Front and Rear Chassis Braces
Shock Caps
Front and Rear Shock Towers

Chris Pins and hardened washers

T-Bone Front and Rear Bumpers

DE Rims with Proline M4 Snipers

CC MMP, 1410, CapPack

Savox SC-1258TG

Spektrum DX2S, 3001T RX
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:21 PM
  #34397  
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Default Sway bar size

Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Front is 1.6, 1.8, 2.0
Rear is 1.8, 2.0, 2.2
Thanks Ryan! That helps a lot when workin off someone's setup!

I've been using 1.6 front and 2.0 rear. My truck still seems a bit loose in the rear - I was over steering at the end of the long straight all weekend. Does this indicate too much steering or too little rear grip? Maybe I'll try a fatter front and thinner rear bar.
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:26 PM
  #34398  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Thanks Ryan! That helps a lot when workin off someone's setup!

I've been using 1.6 front and 2.0 rear. My truck still seems a bit loose in the rear - I was over steering at the end of the long straight all weekend. Does this indicate too much steering or too little rear grip? Maybe I'll try a fatter front and thinner rear bar.
It could be both. I would go stiff in the front sway bar as this will transfer less wieght and should help with high speed steering.
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:30 PM
  #34399  
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Originally Posted by boba.slave View Post
Since a couple of days I own a brand new Losi TEN-SCTE.

I've built in all the electronics and now I'm having an issue with my servo, I think.

Here's my config:
- Castle Sidewinder SCT ESC/motor combo (new)
- Spektrum DX3s Tx with SR300 Rx (always used in my Traxxas Slash 4x4)
- Sävox 1258tg servo (new)

When I turn on I hear some beeps from the ESC/motor and everything is quiet.
From the moment I turn the wheel on the Tx, the servo makes some noise, just like there's some interference... I hope you understand what I'm trying to say?!

When turning the steering quickly from left to right, a few times after each other, sometimes the servo does some weird things and wants to go back in neutral position. All the time the servo makes noise.

Someone an idea?
This is typcial for digital servo's They are always trying to find center and if there is any friction on the front tires it may not get all the way back to dead center and they will hum. Perfectly normal.
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:38 PM
  #34400  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
This is typcial for digital servo's They are always trying to find center and if there is any friction on the front tires it may not get all the way back to dead center and they will hum. Perfectly normal.
Thank you very much Casper!!!
So a BEC or something similar isn't needed?
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:03 PM
  #34401  
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Originally Posted by boba.slave View Post
Thank you very much Casper!!!
So a BEC or something similar isn't needed?
You would only need to add that if the car is stuttering or cutting out. That noise has nothing to do with the BEC. It is just the digital motor in the servo trying to nudge the wheels over the last little bit. It should stop making the noise if you pick the front tires off the ground.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:07 PM
  #34402  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
This is typcial for digital servo's They are always trying to find center and if there is any friction on the front tires it may not get all the way back to dead center and they will hum. Perfectly normal.
Actually what is happening is known as a brown out. Those Savox servos draw alot of juice. Couple that with the fact that your running a Castle ESC which is known for having sub par BEC. When that servo tries to pull alot of current it will shut down for a brief moment and recenter itself. Your first remedy should be to try either a Novak or Spektrum capacitor. If that doesnt fix the problem you will need to run a CC 10a BEC. Personally I dont run Castles ESCs anymore for that exact reason. The RX8 with run anything you throw at it along with many other cheaper ESCs out there.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:10 PM
  #34403  
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Originally Posted by gbyfield View Post
I tried the RCshox 2 stage pistons for the first time at my last race, I ran 32.5 front and 30 rear with standard blue springs.

I run on a UK outdoor bumpy track, I tried using big bore shocks before as I needed more pack for the bumps and jumps but was never happy. Don't bother changing the shocks just the pistons, the RCshox 2 stage pistons are awesome they give better response in the bumpy sections and good pack for the jumps, I could corner so hard without rolling the tyres came off the rims!

Excellent job Marcus
Thanks for the info, think I'll order some. Anyone have any input on the M2C pistons as I am thinking of trying them out as well. Thanks
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:13 PM
  #34404  
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey View Post
Thanks for the info, think I'll order some. Anyone have any input on the M2C pistons as I am thinking of trying them out as well. Thanks
I run the M2C's and they have been great. I would use heavier oils than what is recommended. I run 37 1/2F and 35R
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:20 PM
  #34405  
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Originally Posted by pistolpete1982 View Post
Ive searched and been reading this thread for awhile, but maybe someone can help me out with my setup.

Mamba Monster ESC
CC 3800 w/fan
15t pinion

Ive only raced twice with this setup and each qualifier and mains it seemed the motor was hotter than normal. No issues with it while its running, just when Im done it seemed the motor was too hot. Didn't temp it but not sure what to do. I thought of going down a tooth or two on pinion but not sure how much of a difference it would make. Also do you guys think it would be the ESC? Ive read everyone running the Mamba Max Pro, not the Mamba Monster, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Thanks for the help
I ran that motor w/ the MMP for months geared 14-16t depending on track. It's hot here now, so you really need to get a temp gun. Last summer I never hit above 170 with the 3800. Your 15t should be fine.
Do all the normal binding checks, wiring solid, etc.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:24 PM
  #34406  
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
hi guys. my scte is on its way from 1hobbies. do you guys prefer the tekin pro4 motors or the tekin 550 sc motors? ill be running on a very large outdoor loamy track. if its been asked already, can you point me in the direction for the posts.

also has anyone tried any other esc instead of the rx8? im looking at the hobbywing. i run the xerun's in my touring cars and wanted to keep the electrics in the same family.

thanks.
I run Viper Copperhead R45 in my scte. At $150 it is a steal and has all the power and smoothness you would need. Don't let the low price fool ya.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:38 PM
  #34407  
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I'm running Orion r10pro with Novak 550 4.5 I want to upgrade to tekin pro4. 4600 do I need new firmware to make motor smooth or something?
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Old 05-22-2012, 04:50 PM
  #34408  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
That is pretty agressive gearing for that motor. Dropping down the CL to 80% really will not hurt performance but will help with motor temps as it gets rid of amp spikes that just translate into motor heat. Going back down to 15 with a little current limiter to limit wheel spin may be the ticket for you. Going up in gearing I am sure calmed down the bottom end on that motor for you to help make it more controllable. You can do this to an extent with CL settings as well and not have to run so agressive on the gearing.
I put the 15 back in with the 80 cl. Dropped my temp down to 145, rpm back up to 34000. Times stayed about the same but did have one .9 sec better . am not fish tailing as much comming out of turns. One thing I did notice right off was while in the air giving it throttle did not bring up the nose as fast so I am working on that. If you are limiting rpm by battery voltage and and not gearing wouldn't you be better off with 16t if you are not having temp problems?
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Thicker center diff will take away some off power steering. I would try a softer front spring or a little more front camber first.
I'm not sure this result is typical but I just switched to a 7k center and drove my temps up 10'. Now I'm on a loose track so maybe the two items combined to drive temps.. seemed like I was spinning my tires a bit more w/ the 7k. Steering didn't seem too impacted.

Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I have not tried no front sway bar yet so not sure exactly how big a change that is on this truck.
You should give the no sway a shot quick.. it's the only way I run anymore
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:12 PM
  #34410  
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Originally Posted by Brushless420 View Post
Actually what is happening is known as a brown out. Those Savox servos draw alot of juice. Couple that with the fact that your running a Castle ESC which is known for having sub par BEC. When that servo tries to pull alot of current it will shut down for a brief moment and recenter itself. Your first remedy should be to try either a Novak or Spektrum capacitor. If that doesnt fix the problem you will need to run a CC 10a BEC. Personally I dont run Castles ESCs anymore for that exact reason. The RX8 with run anything you throw at it along with many other cheaper ESCs out there.
I agree with this. The savox + spektrum + castle combo has had a lot of reports of brown outs / glitching.

Does the problem happen when you suspend the car so that none of the wheels/tyres are touching the ground? It should be virtually silent. Then, with your hands off the transmitter (but everything on), start to turn the front wheels of the car so that the servo needs to resist your movements. This will make the servo draw current from the ESC. Apart from some humming from the servo, you should not get much glitching / twitching. If you do, it is because the BEC is overloaded and shutting down.

I used a Novak capacitor to fix this for my Mamba Max Pro, but a sure fire way to fix this for a couple more dollars (and some more soldering) is a separate BEC.
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