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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-18-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
What shock oil weight front and rear do you use for the front black springs and the Orange rear springs oh and what piston hole number also ? Im guessing the stock oil shock weight and the stock pistons are not going to work ?

And about the droop i have my shock ends where there is 3 treads showing but i do plan on keeping the droop screws in for higher traction tracks. Do you back the droop screws out all the way with them just flush ?

Full droop for outdoor racing .
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by blktransam
On a side note/ reality check what Chassis brand has any actual big race results or championships?!?!? If you guessed BCE you would be correct.... just some food for thought, no hype or false info just facts.
Gosh - what what did did anyone do before BCE came in and saved the day? Was anything bolted to that BCE chassis for the win? Did any of those drivers say anything about "thank god I had the BCE chassis, because if not, then the word would get out that I'm really just a terrible driver".

I think your disclaimer 'no hype or false info just facts' is a bit misleading. Mostly because there are no facts in it, and a lot of hype.

I think we all need to realize that all the after market chassis are a level above the stock chassis. Which they should be, since you pay about $100 per.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:16 AM
  #34248  
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Originally Posted by HighLife420
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.


Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:18 AM
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The Chassis DEBATE: OUTCOME

Put all of the names in a hat and pick one! Its helps but its still up to the driver to drive the darn car, NOW DRIVE IT DAMN IT, JUST DRIVE IT! lmao
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
I use it outdoor, track is 140x70 i believe. Lots of 180 and 90 degree turns. I also used the same setup (minus pinion and boost changes) in a indoor track and it did pretty well at both.

Its a good base to start off at, you can adjust here and there to tailor to your liking.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:31 AM
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The runtime issue really comes down to your throttle finger. I am smooth, But also agressive. With a 6000, I would dump a lap or two after a 10min. main. I use some of the nanotec 6600 without any worries about dumping in a 10min. race.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Does TLR have some of the Fastest drivers money can buy??Those guys could whip most of us with a slash 4x4!!!They have to run that chassis!!!I dont know what any of you do for a living but I am a cnc Machinist and I will not buY machined parts from taiwan if I can get them from USA!!!!!
The whole car is made there, but your only worried about the chassis being made there. Makes total sense.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HighLife420
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.
Help me out here because maybe I don't understand everything that a droop screw does - my belief is that the droop screw prevents the arms from traveling down past a certain point. Given that, when your turning and the body rolls one arm goes up and the other arm goes down - more droop would allow the inside tires to stay in contact with the ground. Less droop would pull the inside tires off the ground. This would load up the outside tires and cause traction roll. My understanding is that sway bars limit the extent to which one arm can travel without pulling the opposite arm along with it - so in a turn the arms try to stay level and keep traction between inside and outside even and thus preventing traction rolls.

So I don't understand how he droop screw setting helps prevent traction rolls - help me out what am I missing?
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:01 PM
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I'm a bit late to chime in, as I'm no longer following this thread every moment, but for battery use in a 5 min main I use about 3300-3400 including a few laps of practice at the start. RX8/Pro4 4600/13t, stock tires on indoor dirt that is almost like clay. I do tend to drift the large sweeper that was after the straight, so that'll raise the battery use compared to those that don't.

I was running 5300mah Gens Ace (which took about 5450) without issue for 10+ minute practices when I was being a little more deliberate about being smooth. I've since gone to the 6600 nanotechs (which are taking about 6700) and not worried about battery use since.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by blktransam
I would have to agree here! BCE all the way!!

On a side note/ reality check what Chassis brand has any actual big race results or championships?!?!? If you guessed BCE you would be correct.... just some food for thought, no hype or false info just facts.

Now if you want to take ur remote control car to a car show and show off the "bling" then the xyz chassis may be for you, if you want results and some killer customer service BCE if for you
Now that's some funny shick
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
Just to note, I use this as my base setup everywhere. I used this setup outdoors as well at the SC nats in CT last year and this year I will be as well, I use it out in Beaumont at Thunder Alley, etc. It is a good all around place to start from is what most find.

I certainly say tweak it to you from there though as everyone drives a bit different and the reality is, this setup is from years of all of us beating on it, lol.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Just to note, I use this as my base setup everywhere. I used this setup outdoors as well at the SC nats in CT last year and this year I will be as well, I use it out in Beaumont at Thunder Alley, etc. It is a good all around place to start from is what most find.

I certainly say tweak it to you from there though as everyone drives a bit different and the reality is, this setup is from years of all of us beating on it, lol.
+100 its the base point where i start for my current setup! i must say since switching its been a very enjoyable truck to drive!
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Help me out here because maybe I don't understand everything that a droop screw does - my belief is that the droop screw prevents the arms from traveling down past a certain point. Given that, when your turning and the body rolls one arm goes up and the other arm goes down - more droop would allow the inside tires to stay in contact with the ground. Less droop would pull the inside tires off the ground. This would load up the outside tires and cause traction roll. My understanding is that sway bars limit the extent to which one arm can travel without pulling the opposite arm along with it - so in a turn the arms try to stay level and keep traction between inside and outside even and thus preventing traction rolls.

So I don't understand how he droop screw setting helps prevent traction rolls - help me out what am I missing?
A droop screw on the inside arm makes limits travel, which means that it reaches full extension quicker. At full extension, the available weight for that corner of the truck is maximized. So the effect is two fold: you're maximizing inside weight quicker, and as such the angle at which it is achieved is minimized (think 0 degrees as flat, 90 degress and the truck on it's side). Also consider that the higher the angle of the truck (ie: the more it's leaned prior to a rollover), the less force is required to roll the truck over.

I think I explained that all correctly! Easier to visualize than to put into words.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:23 PM
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nice roller for sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...te-roller.html
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:54 PM
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So what gearing are people running with the tenshock 411 4000kv these days.. large outdoor tracks w/ 80+ degree weather?

Any limiter used on the ESC or just keeping at max? Timing?
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