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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-18-2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
we always seem to come back to this....there are over 100 pages on this topic alone.

Which to go with? ANY OF THEM....really, any of them....they are all great.

I personally went with TLR....why? TLR has been around, they are tried and trued. I love their products and im very happy with my chassis...

The first one did bend on me, waiting for someone to reply (BTW casper, that goldsmith gent never got back to me on my bent chassis).
Bill has been out of the office with a health issue I was told. Try and get ahold of Ryan.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:07 AM
  #34247  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Bill has been out of the office with a health issue I was told. Try and get ahold of Ryan.
Oh, I really hope everything is ok. Please tell him i wish for a quick recovery.

Ill drop ryan a message, thanks.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:01 AM
  #34248  
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Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
Yep ill be out there, unless it pours (60% chance).

Im going to switch my buggy setup tonight. Fixed my truck last, tighten down the servo saver and lock-tite it.

Must test....
Sweet, i want to get some testing in big time.... hopefully it at least does a late afternooner like always and gives us til 4ish lol
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:02 AM
  #34249  
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What shock oil weight front and rear do you use for the front black springs and the Orange rear springs oh and what piston hole number also ? Im guessing the stock oil shock weight and the stock pistons are not going to work ?

And about the droop i have my shock ends where there is 3 treads showing but i do plan on keeping the droop screws in for higher traction tracks. Do you back the droop screws out all the way with them just flush ?

Full droop for outdoor racing .
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
What shock oil weight front and rear do you use for the front black springs and the Orange rear springs oh and what piston hole number also ? Im guessing the stock oil shock weight and the stock pistons are not going to work ?

And about the droop i have my shock ends where there is 3 treads showing but i do plan on keeping the droop screws in for higher traction tracks. Do you back the droop screws out all the way with them just flush ?

Full droop for outdoor racing .
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
On a side note/ reality check what Chassis brand has any actual big race results or championships?!?!? If you guessed BCE you would be correct.... just some food for thought, no hype or false info just facts.
Gosh - what what did did anyone do before BCE came in and saved the day? Was anything bolted to that BCE chassis for the win? Did any of those drivers say anything about "thank god I had the BCE chassis, because if not, then the word would get out that I'm really just a terrible driver".

I think your disclaimer 'no hype or false info just facts' is a bit misleading. Mostly because there are no facts in it, and a lot of hype.

I think we all need to realize that all the after market chassis are a level above the stock chassis. Which they should be, since you pay about $100 per.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:16 AM
  #34252  
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Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.


Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:18 AM
  #34253  
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The Chassis DEBATE: OUTCOME

Put all of the names in a hat and pick one! Its helps but its still up to the driver to drive the darn car, NOW DRIVE IT DAMN IT, JUST DRIVE IT! lmao
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:22 AM
  #34254  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
I use it outdoor, track is 140x70 i believe. Lots of 180 and 90 degree turns. I also used the same setup (minus pinion and boost changes) in a indoor track and it did pretty well at both.

Its a good base to start off at, you can adjust here and there to tailor to your liking.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:31 AM
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The runtime issue really comes down to your throttle finger. I am smooth, But also agressive. With a 6000, I would dump a lap or two after a 10min. main. I use some of the nanotec 6600 without any worries about dumping in a 10min. race.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Does TLR have some of the Fastest drivers money can buy??Those guys could whip most of us with a slash 4x4!!!They have to run that chassis!!!I dont know what any of you do for a living but I am a cnc Machinist and I will not buY machined parts from taiwan if I can get them from USA!!!!!
The whole car is made there, but your only worried about the chassis being made there. Makes total sense.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
Im using Ryans setup straight off the losi site. Good setup.

I find if i use full droop that i tend to get too much body roll into turns (causing me to traction roll). I put the droop screw on the chassis and 1 full turn in. Helped a lot, however, caused a slight push in the front.
Help me out here because maybe I don't understand everything that a droop screw does - my belief is that the droop screw prevents the arms from traveling down past a certain point. Given that, when your turning and the body rolls one arm goes up and the other arm goes down - more droop would allow the inside tires to stay in contact with the ground. Less droop would pull the inside tires off the ground. This would load up the outside tires and cause traction roll. My understanding is that sway bars limit the extent to which one arm can travel without pulling the opposite arm along with it - so in a turn the arms try to stay level and keep traction between inside and outside even and thus preventing traction rolls.

So I don't understand how he droop screw setting helps prevent traction rolls - help me out what am I missing?
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:01 PM
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I'm a bit late to chime in, as I'm no longer following this thread every moment, but for battery use in a 5 min main I use about 3300-3400 including a few laps of practice at the start. RX8/Pro4 4600/13t, stock tires on indoor dirt that is almost like clay. I do tend to drift the large sweeper that was after the straight, so that'll raise the battery use compared to those that don't.

I was running 5300mah Gens Ace (which took about 5450) without issue for 10+ minute practices when I was being a little more deliberate about being smooth. I've since gone to the 6600 nanotechs (which are taking about 6700) and not worried about battery use since.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
I would have to agree here! BCE all the way!!

On a side note/ reality check what Chassis brand has any actual big race results or championships?!?!? If you guessed BCE you would be correct.... just some food for thought, no hype or false info just facts.

Now if you want to take ur remote control car to a car show and show off the "bling" then the xyz chassis may be for you, if you want results and some killer customer service BCE if for you
Now that's some funny shick
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Ok thanks i checked his setups out but there for indoors not outdoors . The tracks here in the Northeast in PA are usually kind of rutty and dry at the tracks ive been to.

Il look at some diffrent team driver setups.
Just to note, I use this as my base setup everywhere. I used this setup outdoors as well at the SC nats in CT last year and this year I will be as well, I use it out in Beaumont at Thunder Alley, etc. It is a good all around place to start from is what most find.

I certainly say tweak it to you from there though as everyone drives a bit different and the reality is, this setup is from years of all of us beating on it, lol.
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