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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-08-2012, 12:01 PM
  #33751  
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Originally Posted by Moogumby View Post
Nope haven't tried a new axle yet.. but it is something else to try! Thanks!

i'm using the aluminum clamping hexes.
I don't recall any mention of the threads being striped in the nut, but it would helpful to post some pictures?

RC
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:46 PM
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If i have this right going from 5/5/3 to 7/7/3 will give me more off power steering and less on power? My truck pulls too hard in the turns causing the rear end to whip around too much. Im trying to correct this. I guess I could turn down my Pro4 4600 because it's over powering and im getting quite a bit of tire spin. Maybe I should try that first. I know the tire choice is good because that is what the other fast guys are running.

Current set up
Dakotah Phend with a few changes for the tight technical track,Blue groove
Running stock pistons,losi 32.5 front,losi 30 rear,Springs black/orange
frnt camber link position 1 on tower
Pro4 4600 13t pinion
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NITROALM View Post
Hi RCP, Yes its the same, the 810 guys where looking for a dedicated
Electric chassis, we still have plans for the gas, but other projects to be released.. I guess the main thought for the Chassis, is for the indoor very tight tracks. Send me a EM when you get a chance. Got a couple of questions
for you..
I sent an email to staff.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:16 PM
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I just got my scte and tore it down to replace the grease in the diffs with fluid and now I have binding in the center diff. I have built plenty of 1/8 scale diffs in my time but these have me stumped. I double and triple checked assembly and everything is seems fine. The only potential problem I see is with the square blocks that hold the diff pins. One of them is a real tight fit in the diff housing and doesn't slide t like the others. Is this my prob or should I look somewhere else. I'm heading to the lhs to pick up some new washers just incase one of those is tweaked too
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by racer-x423 View Post
I just got my scte and tore it down to replace the grease in the diffs with fluid and now I have binding in the center diff. I have built plenty of 1/8 scale diffs in my time but these have me stumped. I double and triple checked assembly and everything is seems fine. The only potential problem I see is with the square blocks that hold the diff pins. One of them is a real tight fit in the diff housing and doesn't slide t like the others. Is this my prob or should I look somewhere else. I'm heading to the lhs to pick up some new washers just incase one of those is tweaked too
I would bet it's that block that's hanging.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by racer-x423 View Post
I just got my scte and tore it down to replace the grease in the diffs with fluid and now I have binding in the center diff. I have built plenty of 1/8 scale diffs in my time but these have me stumped. I double and triple checked assembly and everything is seems fine. The only potential problem I see is with the square blocks that hold the diff pins. One of them is a real tight fit in the diff housing and doesn't slide t like the others. Is this my prob or should I look somewhere else. I'm heading to the lhs to pick up some new washers just incase one of those is tweaked too
Push the gears down with a slight hammer smack and set it. it will run like butter,..
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:18 PM
  #33757  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
That's weird that your motor is still getting hot with 0 timing and the Esc getting hot
I was racing in the same race condition. I'm Willing to bet one of the center bearing went bad. And using 2k on the rear diff will make the motor and esc run like that if your not smooth on the throttle because of wheelspin.
Try a new sencor wire.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Moogumby View Post
Nope havent tried a new axle yet.. but it is someting else to try! Thanks!





im using the aluminum clamping hexes.
Been Here,Done This!!!The truck has wide axle nuts that get plowed into stuff like the walls and pipes and can mess up the axles as well.I had to change two one time in the same day ,on going issue at that time, cuz I left my practice tires on for a few weeks.When I took off the tires two nuts stripped on exit and the threads were jacked.

Originally Posted by chucko View Post
Push the gears down with a slight hammer smack and set it. it will run like butter,..
Or in Lay mans terms,make sure the alum blocks are seated all the way down ,But I do like to smack stuff wit a Hammer Any way my truck just gets better and better At my track I have never been able to land the quad jump always 2&2 or 3& 1 but sat nite did it twice! Truck is running Ryan set up,and getting ready to do the bleeder caps Stylee.

Last edited by BmainStar; 05-08-2012 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:29 PM
  #33759  
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Originally Posted by dougo96 View Post
Try a new sencor wire.
Prob bad solder joints redo all your wiring.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:39 PM
  #33760  
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Originally Posted by racer-x423 View Post
I just got my scte and tore it down to replace the grease in the diffs with fluid and now I have binding in the center diff. I have built plenty of 1/8 scale diffs in my time but these have me stumped. I double and triple checked assembly and everything is seems fine. The only potential problem I see is with the square blocks that hold the diff pins. One of them is a real tight fit in the diff housing and doesn't slide t like the others. Is this my prob or should I look somewhere else. I'm heading to the lhs to pick up some new washers just incase one of those is tweaked too
I had the same exact problem yesterday, it was the bent up washer that was doing it. But those blocks do need to sit flush in the housing to, try moving them to different positions and see if that helps.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by N8racer View Post
Hey guys. Right now I'm running a MMP w/ 1410 and Savox SC-0254 which I put a Novak Power Cap in my Spektrum RX to stop the glitching which it did. I was thinking about upgrading to a Savox SC-1258. Those of you running this set up do you think the Novak cap will work or do I need a CC BEC or CC Cap Pac? Anyone using the Cap Pac? Is it over Kill? Work good? Also will I notice a big difference between the Savox 0254 and the 1258? Worth the upgrade?
I'm running a MMP, SC4X, and the Spektrum S6040 (Equivalent to the 1258, High Speed) with the Spektrum 10V cap and I still get glitching. I'm going to pick up a CC BEC pretty soon because the glitching during a race won't fly.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:51 PM
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all these people with issues with the blocks: the round blocks that chris attebery sells slide into the channels much easier. they are also made of a harder material so they don't round out like the square blocks used to (with the soft diff pins).
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by vw addict View Post
I had the same exact problem yesterday, it was the bent up washer that was doing it. But those blocks do need to sit flush in the housing to, try moving them to different positions and see if that helps.
Tried new shims, tapping the blocks down ended up replacing the plastic diff housing. Must of come out of the mold slightly warped I guess.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dougo96 View Post
Try a new sencor wire.
Getting excited for the series start Sat? Trucks all dialed? You see they posted open ESC and open Motor for pro4? Why the rule change? Man peeps will be dumping large castle and tekin motors in there now :P should be a fun sight... or was that just a typing error or left out detail? I looked over the weekend sheets.. Brian was running laps 1sec faster than everyone who was there! man I hope we can keep up w/ him, looks like he has his pretty dialed, at least on paper.

I'm running all three classes pro2,pro4,scb :P heck I'd run my e-buggy but I think that 4th class would do me in.. LOL
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:20 PM
  #33765  
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Originally Posted by dougo96 View Post
Try a new sencor wire.

I'm running a non sensored esc- motor Tenshock 4600kv with normal timing which I'm going to program it to low timing there's no disable mode.
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