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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-03-2012, 05:18 AM
  #33541  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
supersoft hook up great... enduro's are the 9th wonder of the world, they hook up on everything Almost as mind boggling as how the sc10 stock 2wd (original) tires hook up on everything from carpet to clay tracks as good as any tires. Little simple green prior to a race to clean and condition and they rock. I run the sc10 tires on all my indoor tracks and the endro's outside. If you don't have the money to spend on 15 different sets those are the two to have in the box. The enduro's actually hook up good on the clay too, but they don't wear as good as the sc10 tires, I'm sure they would work on carpet but hitting wood and carpet would kill the enduro tread.
I run outdoors in 75 degree plus weather. My go to tire is green Subcultures but I also keep a set of DD''s,Barcodes,and Wishbones. I want to add one more set to the line up.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:47 AM
  #33542  
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Look out SNR , Integy have brought out a carbon top plate

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iNTEGY-Car...6#ht_705wt_815

And alloy knuckles

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iNTEGY-Bil...d#ht_627wt_815


No thanks
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:59 AM
  #33543  
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Default Top Plate Screws to Diff

I was swapping my chassis and I noticed the screws that go from the top plate to the front diff have chipped out some of the material on the front diff case, on the rear side of where the screws go in.

It must have happened when I tweaked the front of my chassis.

Has anyone tried using a little longer screw going from the top plate to the front diff? It's holding "OK" for now but once I start jumping it may not be enough. There seems to be very few threads going into the front diff when the spacer is in there, even when everything is perfect.

I will replace the diff case when I have time but I am wondering if longer screws might work as a temporary fix to get me through the weekend.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:26 AM
  #33544  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R View Post
I was swapping my chassis and I noticed the screws that go from the top plate to the front diff have chipped out some of the material on the front diff case, on the rear side of where the screws go in.

It must have happened when I tweaked the front of my chassis.

Has anyone tried using a little longer screw going from the top plate to the front diff? It's holding "OK" for now but once I start jumping it may not be enough. There seems to be very few threads going into the front diff when the spacer is in there, even when everything is perfect.

I will replace the diff case when I have time but I am wondering if longer screws might work as a temporary fix to get me through the weekend.
Don't use longer screws as they will penetrate the diff case more and leave plastic chunks inside the diff case. Spend the $9 and get the diff case before you go adding bind and possibly blowing out your motor.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:38 AM
  #33545  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R View Post
I was swapping my chassis and I noticed the screws that go from the top plate to the front diff have chipped out some of the material on the front diff case, on the rear side of where the screws go in.

It must have happened when I tweaked the front of my chassis.

Has anyone tried using a little longer screw going from the top plate to the front diff? It's holding "OK" for now but once I start jumping it may not be enough. There seems to be very few threads going into the front diff when the spacer is in there, even when everything is perfect.

I will replace the diff case when I have time but I am wondering if longer screws might work as a temporary fix to get me through the weekend.
It will work fine , just dont go too long ....

The 4 screws that hold the center diff too the chassis are the perfect size and are about 1/4 of an inch longer than the diff screws ....
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:29 AM
  #33546  
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
I run outdoors in 75 degree plus weather. My go to tire is green Subcultures but I also keep a set of DD''s,Barcodes,and Wishbones. I want to add one more set to the line up.
If you are 80+ most of the year go w/ the 'soft' not the supersoft.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:13 AM
  #33547  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Don't use longer screws as they will penetrate the diff case more and leave plastic chunks inside the diff case. Spend the $9 and get the diff case before you go adding bind and possibly blowing out your motor.
Thank you, for sure I want to be careful about going through the case - but there are so few threads in there now I thought there might be room for a few more. I mean it literally looks like only about 3 threads go into the case.

Just for my own education, about your other comment, hypothetically if the front diff was to get bound up somehow wouldn't the center diff just push the power to the rear wheels instead as opposed to blowing up the motor?
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:19 AM
  #33548  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
It will work fine , just dont go too long ....

The 4 screws that hold the center diff too the chassis are the perfect size and are about 1/4 of an inch longer than the diff screws ....
Thanks for the quick response. I looked them up for comparison - the existing case screws are 5-40 X 3/8 button head and the the top of the diff uses 5-40 X 1/2 flat head. So a slightly longer button head should get me by until I can replace the case!

Thanks for the helpful info!
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:32 AM
  #33549  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R View Post
Thank you, for sure I want to be careful about going through the case - but there are so few threads in there now I thought there might be room for a few more. I mean it literally looks like only about 3 threads go into the case.

Just for my own education, about your other comment, hypothetically if the front diff was to get bound up somehow wouldn't the center diff just push the power to the rear wheels instead as opposed to blowing up the motor?
If you are referring to the screws going into the top of the diff case through the front triangle type support, yes. You want to put longer screws into that position. The two top screws from the rear facing screws in the rear bumper can be swapped. The newer trucks have the case modified and these screws already in place.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:01 AM
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Well, the problem is that I made it too good for MY truck. I didn't think about people using the KH chassis or long rear brace.

WTH? Why isn't everyone using MY setup???

Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
Just ordered 1 of these today and it isn't going in a SCTE so I should be fine.
It happens to the best of us, can't always be a 100% right
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:49 AM
  #33551  
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Tires: Running outdoor red clay some grooved some loose med track some technical turns.... Looking to understand how the different tires work.. Looing at the AKA lin of tires but notice most brands have similar aspects so here we go:

Which would be best? and why?
City Blocks
Rebar
Wishbone
enduro
grid iron

can be seen here: http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8....&str_s=aka&p=1
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:50 AM
  #33552  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
If you are referring to the screws going into the top of the diff case through the front triangle type support, yes. You want to put longer screws into that position. The two top screws from the rear facing screws in the rear bumper can be swapped. The newer trucks have the case modified and these screws already in place.
Hi Ryan, yes that was exactly what I was talking about, and you have given me a quick and simple solution to my problem! Gotta love Losi support, it always makes me glad I run Losi products! Much appreciated!
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:09 AM
  #33553  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
Tires: Running outdoor red clay some grooved some loose med track some technical turns.... Looking to understand how the different tires work.. Looing at the AKA lin of tires but notice most brands have similar aspects so here we go:

Which would be best? and why?
City Blocks
Rebar
Wishbone
enduro
grid iron

can be seen here: http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8....&str_s=aka&p=1
Most companies including aka have a tire chart posted to help with that very choice always check out the top 3 drivers tires too.. can help narrow the choice, or make the choice.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by kokoyang View Post
Hi Casper…thank you for responding to me.

My truck is the Losi Ten-SCT. I believe my RX8 is running no boost with 80% on the current limiter. The trucks I went against are Associated SC10 4wds. By the way, my ballistic 4.5t also has 0 timing on it.

As I said, it was doing alright with it (in fact I just won a race with that exact set-up about 2 weeks ago)…until I ran with these guys who has really fast trucks!
I don't believe you stated what kind of controler/transmitter you are running but most throttle ends are set to 100% from the factory. With that being said most controllers will go up to 140% to 150%. Check your setting if you have a digital controller and then recalibrate to your ESC. You could gain massive amounts of power if that is the case.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
Most companies including aka have a tire chart posted to help with that very choice always check out the top 3 drivers tires too.. can help narrow the choice, or make the choice.
ok can you explain the track conditions:
Loamy
no loam
wet loam
blue groove

thanks
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