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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-14-2012, 09:40 PM
  #32686  
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Well i cut of the side nerf bars to lose a gram maybe at best . Now i was going to cut off the Esc mount i already have some holes in it and the battery tray also.

But im a little iffy on it because i might mess up the knobby looking thing on it by it which is important to have to mount the battery tray on the chassis. I seen somebody with a butch of holes in the side guards its a ton of pages back on here but i see the downside of that because dirt will fly though the holes like crazy.

I know i could make some holes in the radio tray where the wires go though to the RX box.

Last edited by tc5 man; 04-14-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
Havent done that, first I heard of it. I have been using the stock ones but they just leak....so I thought I would try the mugen ones. I had to push down pretty hard on the washer to get the pin in.
I Have found anytime i have to press down really hard on the washer to get the pin in there is a problem with something causing the diff to lock up or be really tight. Usually the inserts are not pressed down far enough into the diff housing. If thats not it the Mugen oring you are using may be too thick for this app. You should be able to turn the outdrive and the pin should spin freely with out hitting the washer too much. I use the stock orings everytime and have no porblems with leaking. When I do a rebuild I put a light coat of rtv on the metal insert befor installing it in the diff housing. Dont go crazy otherwise you will have trouble getting it seated properly. Then I put a bunch of black grease in the hole before inserting the outdrive. When I insert the outdrive I put my finger over the opening forcing the grease to go down and around the outdrive as I push it in. This usually does the trick for me. I have'nt had a leak for my last 5 rebuilds.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC View Post
Drill thing did nothing....I wouder about leaving the washer off. I thought I saw people do this, its alot looser with it off. The washer has a warp to it with it on.
DOC, may be I missed it earlier, but is your diff leaking at the seal or the insert? My rear diff started leaking and I thought it was the seal, but it turned out to be oil getting around the steel diff insert and plastic diff case. I glued the insert into the case and the leak went away.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:10 AM
  #32689  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Well i cut of the side nerf bars to lose a gram maybe at best . Now i was going to cut off the Esc mount i already have some holes in it and the battery tray also.

But im a little iffy on it because i might mess up the knobby looking thing on it by it which is important to have to mount the battery tray on the chassis. I seen somebody with a butch of holes in the side guards its a ton of pages back on here but i see the downside of that because dirt will fly though the holes like crazy.

I know i could make some holes in the radio tray where the wires go though to the RX box.
I cut my tray down to just the tabs and the stiff plastic that connects the screw holes, i cut off the tray at the end of the battery....took it to the track not an issue..... placed the esc directly to the chassis....
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:10 AM
  #32690  
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I have been running a BCE chassis for the past few months and have been really happy with it. Much stronger than the stock chassis, lighter and has the flex characteristics I was looking for. But I was having trouble with wear on the front driveshaft, so when I saw the King Headz chassis I had to give it a try. It does reduce the driveshaft angle quite a bit and is very well made. I am using the stock rear brace but the KH chassis has holes for the longer braces as well. There is a third motor mount hole which is for an upcoming KH motor mount.


KH on top, BCE in the middle, stock Losi on bottom.




Note the extra holes for longer rear brace and third hole for the KH motor mount.


Driveshaft angle is less severe than stock.


I placed the KH chassis on top of the stocker and marked the holes. You can see it is angled and moved closer to the centerline than stock.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:25 AM
  #32691  
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The track is closed tomorrow...Hot Rod Hobbies in Saugus, CA...they said they are working on the track until Tuesday... wrecked my plans. I am posting photos to ease my pain.....LOL

Well I enjoyed the pictures of your truck.Looks setup really well.My new SCTE is on the way!Caint wait.I got some good ideas of the layout and what I need to do.
Thanks
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:31 AM
  #32692  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Well i cut of the side nerf bars to lose a gram maybe at best . Now i was going to cut off the Esc mount i already have some holes in it and the battery tray also.

But im a little iffy on it because i might mess up the knobby looking thing on it by it which is important to have to mount the battery tray on the chassis. I seen somebody with a butch of holes in the side guards its a ton of pages back on here but i see the downside of that because dirt will fly though the holes like crazy.

I know i could make some holes in the radio tray where the wires go though to the RX box.
Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
I cut my tray down to just the tabs and the stiff plastic that connects the screw holes, i cut off the tray at the end of the battery....took it to the track not an issue..... placed the esc directly to the chassis....
While this can work, keep in mind with the ESC tray lightened but still in place it allows for MUCH easier cleaning.. no remounting of the ESC and playing around. Personally, the weight savings.. especially in the rear is not ideal past a trim up.

just my 2c

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Old 04-15-2012, 11:48 AM
  #32693  
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
I Have found anytime i have to press down really hard on the washer to get the pin in there is a problem with something causing the diff to lock up or be really tight. Usually the inserts are not pressed down far enough into the diff housing. If thats not it the Mugen oring you are using may be too thick for this app. You should be able to turn the outdrive and the pin should spin freely with out hitting the washer too much. I use the stock orings everytime and have no porblems with leaking. When I do a rebuild I put a light coat of rtv on the metal insert befor installing it in the diff housing. Dont go crazy otherwise you will have trouble getting it seated properly. Then I put a bunch of black grease in the hole before inserting the outdrive. When I insert the outdrive I put my finger over the opening forcing the grease to go down and around the outdrive as I push it in. This usually does the trick for me. I have'nt had a leak for my last 5 rebuilds.
I never thought it would leak between the insert and case, but I did see some light oil under it. I'm now trying the rtv thing. I watched Adams Drakes shock rebuild video and I'm going to try his way not using the washer, when ever I rebuild the diffs the stock washers are grooved pretty bad so I know I have some drag on them. I do like the way the Mugen o-rings fit over the stock ones so I hope this works. Thanks.


Originally Posted by Shark413 View Post
DOC, may be I missed it earlier, but is your diff leaking at the seal or the insert? My rear diff started leaking and I thought it was the seal, but it turned out to be oil getting around the steel diff insert and plastic diff case. I glued the insert into the case and the leak went away.
Hay...Mark how have you been. You know I have never liked the stock o-rings, to me they just dont fit right. The Mugen's have a tighter fit. So leaving the washers out it turns pretty good. I was going to to race at WC today with my buddy thats already there but both of my trucks are still apart, Midnight came fast last night and I was just to tired. Went to bed I'm running the bump chassis and I like it. Try to make it out some Tuesday again.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:21 PM
  #32694  
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waht is the disadvange of using a little wider offset wheel on the scte. like using a slash offset wheel. i know it will be more stable. and sometimes at big races they check width(which i never go to)

i had some wheel and tire before i made the switch to losi(i had hyper 10sc) i need new tires and wondering if i should just stay with offset.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:28 PM
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the slash 4x4 wheels (or rear slash 2wd) are just way too wide. don't even come close to fitting under the body. so the fenders will be digging into your tires. on a large, 1/8 scale track, i could see the added stability being a minor plus (which gets erased when the body digs into the tires on a landing), but on a 1/10 track or a tight indoor 1/10 track, the truck won't rotate very well and the turning radius will be too wide. IMO, it's just not worth it. let alone that it looks ridiculous. now the 3mm renegade wheels are much harder to detect and may add some performance.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:38 PM
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all i know is i put some aka premount enduros. it did not look that bad. raced with that way for few weeks. did not dig into the body.

but i do get your point about turning radius. ill just get some scte wheels. you know how it is. trying to save money. lol
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:39 PM
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Just got the gmk supply hardened diff washers to try. If these dont wear then ill be happy w my diffs!!!
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon57 View Post
The track is closed tomorrow...Hot Rod Hobbies in Saugus, CA...they said they are working on the track until Tuesday... wrecked my plans. I am posting photos to ease my pain.....LOL

Well I enjoyed the pictures of your truck.Looks setup really well.My new SCTE is on the way!Caint wait.I got some good ideas of the layout and what I need to do.
Thanks
You are gonna love it! This is my first electric (not counting the RC 10 I had wayyy back in the day LOL), whole different animal from my 8-T 2.0. I am having a blast with this thing at the track but still have lots to learn!
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:51 PM
  #32699  
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OK guys I just picked up one of these lightly used. It is all stock now. I will only be running the truck on a small outdoor track. It doesn't have any large jumps but it is pretty technical. When I go to the big tracks I run 1/8 scale and that will never change. With that said where should I invest my time and money for upgrades? I just don't want to buy upgrades that are intended to make the truck better on large tracks etc. What is going to make the truck better on a smaller outdoor technical track? I guess ultimately what I am asking is where is the "list"? You know the one that everyone looks for when they first get a car.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hlpressley View Post
OK guys I just picked up one of these lightly used. It is all stock now. I will only be running the truck on a small outdoor track. It doesn't have any large jumps but it is pretty technical. When I go to the big tracks I run 1/8 scale and that will never change. With that said where should I invest my time and money for upgrades? I just don't want to buy upgrades that are intended to make the truck better on large tracks etc. What is going to make the truck better on a smaller outdoor technical track? I guess ultimately what I am asking is where is the "list"? You know the one that everyone looks for when they first get a car.
One thing for sure it the TLR tuning kit (TLR0901) - worth the money for sure. Check it out, it's way less then you would pay for all the parts separately.
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