Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
C rating is the safe continuous amp draw of a battery . You multiply the capacity times the C rating to come up with the amp draw the battery is safely capable of delivering . 3800 35c is the same as saying 3.8 x 35 =133 amps , 5000 30c is 5.0 x 30 = 155 amps . The 5000 30c has a higher safe continuous amp draw then the 3800 35c . The 5000 30c is the one to use in this case as it supplies more amps continuously . Hope that helps .
Hum makes sense il need to do that math the next time . So it sounds like i should use the 5000mah 2s/30c than i know manfacters make up the C ratings just look at Maxamps
The 5000mah is much newer of a lipo anyways.
Anyone got any views of the motor in this combo????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
I have the STRC chassis braces on my SCTE now if I decide to get an aftermarket chassis not asking which one I'm not getting into that can of worms but would I still babe able or even want to use them?
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Anyone got any views of the motor in this combo????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
I run the esc not the motor i run it with my tenshock 5200kv which is ridiculous.... you could use that esc in your scte and it would fit a whole lot better
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I can't comment on all the chassis but the TLR chassis has holes for the torque rod and the stock chassis brace assuming the STRC uses the stock locations it would work fine on the TLR chassis.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
I have heard many who have gone with aftermarket chassis, most go back to stock chassis braces. Thats what I did and I may not put my STRC aluminum braces back on!
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Whats the differents from the torque rod vs stock brace ? (for handling characteristics) I just order a TLR chassis but torque rod brace was back order.
Anyone got any views of the motor in this combo????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-...item1e6cc6ae12
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719292
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719213
The torque rod allows the chassis to flex less. With the stock brace you might pop your rear center drive shaft out.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
The torque rod will give the chassis a little more forward to rear stiffness but allow the rear end to twist a little. We have been using the torque rod most everywhere. If the track gets really rough though the stock brace will give a little more chassis flex and may be a good tuning aid to soak up some more bumps or give a little more traction in really low traction conditions.
Tech Adept
You really only need the torque rod if you are running on such a high bite track that the traction causes the chassis to flex to much. Otherwise you are better off just running the stock brace. I had a long brace on my Jammin Chassis and the car would not get settled in turns and would break loose trying to turn on power. Put the stock brace back on and all of the sudden the car was easy to drive.
Tech Adept
Could you post what your experience is with the driveability of the 5200. How hot does it run? How low are you gearing it?
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
I was considering the 5200 411 tenshock to go with my xerun 120. I am currently running the 4000kv 401 tenshock. It has enough torque that it would probably be better suited in an even heavier vehicle. Just wears the tires out if I try to accelerate to fast. I was thinking that the 5200 would have a much smoother power curve and more top end than I will probably ever need to use.
Could you post what your experience is with the driveability of the 5200. How hot does it run? How low are you gearing it?
Could you post what your experience is with the driveability of the 5200. How hot does it run? How low are you gearing it?
You really only need the torque rod if you are running on such a high bite track that the traction causes the chassis to flex to much. Otherwise you are better off just running the stock brace. I had a long brace on my Jammin Chassis and the car would not get settled in turns and would break loose trying to turn on power. Put the stock brace back on and all of the sudden the car was easy to drive.