RC-Rick

This is great news! I also noticed we can buy individual titanium screws by size without having to buy a whole new set when need be. But I have a few questions. Does this replace the current aluminum caps? Are there plans to replace the caps in the TLR kit for the SCTE with these?

I'm planning to attend RCX this year for the first time, what can I expect from Losi and/or Horizon Hobby? i.e. will these and all the recent product announcements be on display.....for purchase even?

Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

Anyone use an MT4 with there scte and have the voltage readout from the receiver figured out to alarm when the voltage gets close to LVC?

RC_Woody

So it looks like the hole is placed up higher and you use the screw and washer to seal/bleed?

That way you can screw your shock tops all the way on and just loosen the screw for bleeding. Is that the basic concept?

-Woody

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

just thought i share since i already purchased mine lol hobbypartz go now lol!!!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I leave the screw out. Fill the shock up to the top of the body with the piston at that bottom.

Screw the cap on all the way tight. Slowly compress the shock so piston is now at the top and some oil will bleed out the screw hole. With the piston at the top I put the screw in and done. Super fast and super consistant.

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I know you all have seen this before but I got my new chassis installed today so I had to post it. I had to file a little material of the front to get my TLR hinge pin holders to fit over the chassis but it was no big deal. I blew up the motor in my dremel so I could'nt hack off the ends of the mud guards yet. That should lighten her up a bit more. It should be a nice improvement since the chassis was bent in the front when I bought it. It turned great to the left but not to the right. How light can you get these things anyway?

Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

Who makes the carbon brace over the steering?

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Mine is 5lb 15oz RTR. I could drop another 2-3 oz by going to Ti screws and Al. locknuts.

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I don't beleive its possible unless you buy the newest telemetry rx not the 461 but there is a newer one that does main battery voltage. I will se if I can find it and post it.

Here it is. I just remembered why I did'nt order it. Look at the price.

http://www.rcplanet.com/Airtronics_R...p/air92011.htm

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

I figured i could make it as light as possible, but if i can't improve the flips and roll overs in my runs.... me making it lighter won't mean a thing!

Just saying....save the funds cut the seconds!!!!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Mine is 6.15 lbs ready to hit the track. I still have my full radio box in tact. Dunfords has his down to 5.8 and change ready to hit the track.

(Ready to hit the track = body, battery, tires, dirt ect!)LOL

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I'm still using stock hardware but am all over the tiNi hinge pins and shock shafts when they come out. Also gonna grab some shock bodies,bleeder caps and the new high performance body as soon as it's all in stock.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

A few of you have been asking so I figured I would give you an update. The east coast has received and QA'd and already begun shipping their rollers. The west coast just got theirs, I will QC and then they should start shipping tomorrow or Thursday as I had mentioned a week or so ago. Phew, it actually went as planned.

The other new parts, TiNi parts and bleeder caps are in the air now and should be in stock and shipping next week.

RC_Woody

I noticed doing this same basic concept with the TLR shock caps, that even though I bleed(keep the shock all the way compressed) until no more oil comes out once I screw the cap back tight and work the shock a little, then check rebound I still get varying degrees of rebound. Almost always I have to bleed each shock a few times until there is very little rebound and they are close to the same. Is this normal? or am I doing something wrong?

I Fill the oil to top of body with a little concave. Screw cap on until 2 or 3 threads showing or keep loosing it up until oil does come out a little when I start to compress. Then compress the shock slowly all the way up keeping the shock at a 45 deg. angle with the hole facing up. Wait for no more oil/air bubbles, and then tighten back up.


does that sound about right?

kazuaki

iTrader: (35)

So doing this, is it still an "emulsion" shock? I ask because using the method you describe, it doesn't seem like there would be any air at all left in the shock.